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Discussion Starter #1
After ruining 2 cranks, I installed an oil accumulator from accusump. This the the 3 quart high pressure model. I used a b series vtec kit to get this sandwich adapter. It has a -8 o-ring boss port on the filtered side of the oil flow. I got that elbow, which wasn't cheap, a -8an hose and connector kit, a stainless 1/2" ball valve, and 1/2" npt coupler. It's mounted to some holes I found in the back because I didn't want to drill new ones. I planned all this while building a new block for my engine. I can now prime the engine with oil pressure before I start it and hopefully those left hand sweepers can't starve my engine ever again!

20170204_124034 by rabidflickr, on Flickr

20170130_194909 by rabidflickr, on Flickr

Bonus build picture
20170129_164216 by rabidflickr, on Flickr
 

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This is interesting. i have never seen this on a honda. Low oil pressure ruined the last 2 blocks? Was it on start up or after running them for a while?
 

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I gotcha. I didnt even think about that. Probably because my car cant pull enough g's right now.lol Would a bigger baffled pan help out?
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
EC3, ED8, ED9, EE5
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I've had one of those sitting on the shelf for years. Needs to find its way into the Tape-R this year.

As an also, many track safety organizations do not like fluids flowing through the cabin. If you haven't planned for one yet, I would recommend building a bulk head over the sump and connections.
 

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Prelude, Integra DB9
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G-forces driving the oil away from the pickup tube
Really? Driving too hard before the oil had warmed up would be my first guess, to be honest. (Unless I've missed that it's not a road car?)

Sorry - that sounds a bit accusatory.
If the car's in normal use, I'd see the gadget as being a solution to a problem that shouldn't have been there in the first place. The standard oil pump with the correct oil and filter should be more than up to the job. Perhaps the pick-up tube is deformed or blocked.

What's the car, and what's the engine?
 

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What are you using for valving? The auto systems sound like the hot set-up, but in our race car, it seems to be another thing to break. The manual versions sound more robust, but rely on us remembering to do the right things at the right times.
 

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Really? Driving too hard before the oil had warmed up would be my first guess, to be honest. (Unless I've missed that it's not a road car?)

Sorry - that sounds a bit accusatory.
If the car's in normal use, I'd see the gadget as being a solution to a problem that shouldn't have been there in the first place. The standard oil pump with the correct oil and filter should be more than up to the job. Perhaps the pick-up tube is deformed or blocked.

What's the car, and what's the engine?
It's in a track car. Lots of grip and power will create oil starvation issues when cornering, even with pan baffles. Acuusumps do a good job filling in the low spots. We see this sometimes in our stage rally car, but it's more due to the roughness of the stages. Gravel roads get pretty bouncy at 90mph. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've had one of those sitting on the shelf for years. Needs to find its way into the Tape-R this year.

As an also, many track safety organizations do not like fluids flowing through the cabin. If you haven't planned for one yet, I would recommend building a bulk head over the sump and connections.
Ya, I doubt any of the races I go to will care. Maybe an NHRA track might. I wouldn't need it for drag racing anyways. I could disconnect it and hide the line under the carpet, that is, if I ever have a reason to drag race.

What oil pan you running?
Y8

What are you using for valving? The auto systems sound like the hot set-up, but in our race car, it seems to be another thing to break. The manual versions sound more robust, but rely on us remembering to do the right things at the right times.
It's just a 1/2" ball valve. I'm in the testing stages. I open it before I start the engine. I get 20 psi on my gauge which is plumbed into the turbo line coming off the stock pressure sensor port. I do plan to put a servo on the ball valve for easier access. I might even write code into my ecu to control that. First I need to actually race with it decide how I want it to operate.
 

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It's just a 1/2" ball valve. I'm in the testing stages. I open it before I start the engine. I get 20 psi on my gauge which is plumbed into the turbo line coming off the stock pressure sensor port. I do plan to put a servo on the ball valve for easier access. I might even write code into my ecu to control that. First I need to actually race with it decide how I want it to operate.
Then you close it before you turn off the motor, keeping pressurized oil in the sump?
 

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Prelude, Integra DB9
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It's in a track car. Lots of grip and power will create oil starvation issues when cornering, even with pan baffles. Acuusumps do a good job filling in the low spots. We see this sometimes in our stage rally car, but it's more due to the roughness of the stages. Gravel roads get pretty bouncy at 90mph. :)
Ah, OK.
It does make a difference!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I gotcha now. Do you have a picture of the full setup? I would like to how it runs to the engine.
The hose just runs along under the carpet to the right of the passenger seat and through the firewall.
 
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