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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, DSO. Just wanted to share a picture of the sleeper I'm working on. It's just my daily commuter CRX and I want it to take me to work faster.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Kewl. Specs?
Sure thing. Just give me a few days. I want to create a start up/first pull video in conjunction with the specs. Until then, here is a picture of the car on the side of the road from when it overheated and warped a head. It looks much worse on the other side.

 

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Prelude, Integra DB9
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I'm just posting because someone who uses the handle "Sailor" should be interested in why you're "keel hauled"!


(as well as liking CRXs, of course)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do yourself a favour and avoid a lot of overheating... put a proper rad in the car.
The overheating issue was due to the lack of a coolant bypass line. I had received that car like that and always had the heater core activated. Of course turning off the heating core and not having a coolant bypass hose lead to serious issues. The radiator at the time (stock) was not an issue and worked wonderfully after I had fixed the head and installed a coolant bypass hose. The radiator shown has never been used before and is currently in the car due to a lack of space. I don't suspect any issues to come with it.

I'm just posting because someone who uses the handle "Sailor" should be interested in why you're "keel hauled"!

Maybe we'll talk about that another time. I have in fact been "keel hauled", figuratively speaking of course.


(as well as liking CRXs, of course)
 

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Love the Civic
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Being keel hauled figuratively or literally would suck.

I like a beat up old rex picking on cars much younger and more powerful.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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another florida member. does that plate say Sarasota? bout time we got some southern florida people
 

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Discussion Starter #10
another florida member. does that plate say Sarasota? bout time we got some southern florida people
No, Sarasota is about an eight hour drive for me. I'm in northwest Florida.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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lol, well another northern member then lol. plenty from Orlando, jville, Pensacola, ect
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So as the story goes, I was in need of a daily. Something that could get me to work with better gas mileage than my other car at 15 MPG. I found that daily in the form of an 91 Civic sedan. At the time I didn't know jack about Hondas and I still wouldn't call myself proficient. Within a few months I was already bored with the car. I had never driven anything so slow in my life! I put the car up for trade on Craigslist and the response was a guy with a CRX. YES! TRADE NOW! I've always considered the CRX to be a unique and seemingly fun Honda, even though I had never driven one. So I scooped up the CRX to take over daily duties.



When I test drove the car, I knew it was going to need some work. It had sat for five years with coolant in the cylinders. On the second day of ownership, this happened.



After I got the block bored out to clean up the pitting, I had a "while I'm in there" moment. While I'm in there, let me build the bottom end.



So that's what I did. I decided at this point that I want my daily to not be miserably slow like the Civic was.



I learned that boost wasn't going to happen with most of what was already in the car, so I went from DPFI to MPFI and swapped the head to a Y8 head. I haz VTEC now!!



The turbo of choice ended up being a T04E 60 trim because I got it locally for $20. :banana sex: I did rebuild and balance the turbo.



The only thing I've done cosmetically so far is replace the front bumped. I did spray paint that but I will paint the whole car properly later down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #13


After a 1000 mile break in, naturally aspirated, the engine overheated and warped the head. I didn't know it at the time but it was due to a lack of a coolant bypass hose. I had the heater core activated the whole time so it wasn't needed. One day I decided to turn the heater core off; that was a bad day. I had to pull the head, mill it flat, and reinstalled it WITH a coolant bypass hose this time. Then I started installing other things.



Farewell, eBay header.



Hello, eBay (but rebuilt and balanced) turbo.



In order to keep things stealthy and sleeper-y, I tried to keep the gauges out of sight from on lookers. I don't think I really like the AFR gauge that low though as it's difficult to see on boost.

*A video of the CRX making it's first pulls would go here but I don't have enough posts.*

On that note, I did take out Rocco (the CRX) on a shakedown run on a base tune. Good news: nothing broke and nothing leaks! :clap: The EEPROM burner should be here soon so I can dial in the tune as well as materials for me to relocate the wastegate so I can put the hood back one.

I should be able to get to work quicker now. Not sure how the gas mileage is going to be though. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #14
By the way, no the wiring isn't a complete cluster fuck anymore. The spaghetti wiring shown above was a result of me trying to make three different generations of OBD work together.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well not really a huge update, but that's because I'm waiting for the RTV on the oil pan gasket to dry. That's the only leak I had. Dang oil pan gasket...



I started working on my own base tune now that the chip burner has arrived. If I didn't mention it before, 300 whp is the goal. Should be nice and conservative for this setup and still be plenty of fun.



Unfortunately the RTV that I applied to the oil pan gasket to stop the slow oil leak needed to cure, so until the morning comes here are a few pictures. The water mark is because I run a local grassroots automotive blog and the picture URL is just from the Facebook page for it.







 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)

here is a video of a very rough tune on the CRX. This was just meant to be a shake down run to see what else needed to be addressed mechanically before I move forward with the tune. Since this video was taken, I've got the fuel pretty well sorted for idle, cruising, and under boost (8 psi for now) and the ignition timing is very conservative. I don't want to start cranking things up until I'm on a dyno and can see a dyno plot.

At this point I'm just waiting on materials to come in so I can relocate the wastegate, put the hood back on, and create some sort of exhaust system. Oh, and I suppose I need to figure out how I want to control boost pressure. I'm not going to hit 300 whp at 8 psi.

The car does serve it's intended purpose though. It gets me to work; and quicker now.:scooter:
 

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Classic Man
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The radiator shown has never been used before and is currently in the car due to a lack of space. I don't suspect any issues to come with it.
Take it from a guy whos been DD'n turbo EF's for a lot of years. Its not gonna cool properly if its tilted and off to the side. Just trying to help you out, not call you out. Half rads in an EF dont work very well. I daily drive mine, multiple hour drives through the mountains, that wasnt possible before I ran a full rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Take it from a guy whos been DD'n turbo EF's for a lot of years. Its not gonna cool properly if its tilted and off to the side. Just trying to help you out, not call you out. Half rads in an EF dont work very well. I daily drive mine, multiple hour drives through the mountains, that wasnt possible before I ran a full rad.
Oh no, I'm not trying to discredit your knowledge at all. Considering your overall presence on this site, I get the vibe that you might know a thing or two or ten about D series and Hondas. Even given what you have said, I'm still pretty determined to make this work when the hood goes back on.

I have three potential air intake points: The undercarriage (shrouding required to direct air to the radiator), a small section in the front bumper that is not obstructed by the intercooler, and the third will come from a rectangle I will have to cut in the nose of the hood. I'll block off a section on the passenger side of the radiator to ensure air flow passes through the radiator when the hood is closed. There is a puller fan on the radiator to assist with cooling in stop and start traffic.

Given then placement of the radiator, I feel like this setup will suffice. I'll certainly report back if I end up overheating with this setup. So far I've had no issues with coolant temps, even with the fan always off, but I'm certainly not in the middle of summer in Florida right now. I would install a full size radiator if I could. I have a relatively new one sitting in my garage but there is simply no room in the engine bay for one with this configuration.
 

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EG8
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How thick is your intercooler? That affects things more as well.

The hood vent works best where the air flow starts seperating from the hood which is 2/3 the way down from the windshield typically. The radiator placement might be just too far back for that.

Also since there is a lot of ambient space, any sucked in air is also being diluted and turbulant from the extra area before the radiator.

Honda's normally don't need a lot of cooling at all. Idk how long/hard you have driven yours but the fan is doing 95% of the work in that configuration. As soon as you need more, the capacity is there, but the heat transfer is extremely low. So depending on how long of the drives that you take and how hard you drive, you won't notice the need for more.

Also if you are going for ducting from the undercarriage, go for Naca style ducts. A scoop wouldn't get the airspeed up, which is what you need.
 
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