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Discussion Starter #1
With a d16y8, what is the best IM to go with?
A Z6 IM
B Skunk 2
C Other

Mods are CAI, DC Headers, 2.25 Magnaflow exhaust.

I will go with a B16 TB
TPP the head and 3 angle
Stage 2 cam and shit for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I dont know, that is why I am asking. I know really nothing about building a motor, other than my OEM TB and IM are not sufficiant and need to be upgraded, so any and all input is welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I want the 60mm. from what I read, that is the best size.
 

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Im Bringing TSEXY Back!
^^Look up
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Blox x2. Waiting for mine to come. Basically the same design as the Skunk 2 but for a bill cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I dont know, just what I have read, all say, get another IM and TB. I have also heard Blox is good too, so is edelbrock.
 

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The Great Weldini
91 civic
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other than my OEM TB and IM are not sufficiant and need to be upgraded, so any and all input is welcome.
wha idiot told you this? for starter ppl have been putting 250whp+ w/a oem im portmatch to a 60mm tb. second, a Blox, Sk2, edelbrock and other aftermarket im are 62mm portmatch. and alot of those company don't make 62mm tb. except Type-R OEM tb(have fun finding for one, they'll run $200-$450, more towards the latter) BBK do make a 62mm. now unless you have done stupid upgrades like custom cam(way beyond stage 3) anything beyond a 60mm tb will not help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No one person has said this, it is meerly my deduction of reading post after post. I agree most of the aftermarket shit is just that, unless you facter it into the total scheme.

What I want to do is get my head done and put in a stage 2 cam. I am not looking to take this to the strip, just fun to drive.

Is there or is there not an advantage to an aftermarket IM and TB for what I want to do and have already done? I just want it to breath better and am looking for @150hp+-
 

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The Great Weldini
91 civic
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8,901 Posts
i will be putting down close to 200whp w/an OEM z6 im portmatch to a B18c tb. my head will have an 5 angle valve job, pnp agressive w/a stage 3 hard welds. the reason i say it, you'll be fine w/the OEM. unless you're worring about bling? to be honest function over form, my good man.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So loosley transelated, scrap the IM and just get a TB and go with the headwork? Now Stage 2 or 3 cam?
 

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93 cx hatch
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16,376 Posts
if your wanting 150 + hp.. then your going to need something besides the stock im.. id say get a b series tb, blox im... stage 3 cam, build the head and raise the comp.. check out builthatches build.. hes around 155 whp

ot but remoer... what are you planing on doing for 200 whp?
 

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i save your ass when you wreck
94 hatchback cx
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6,693 Posts
Probably benefit more getting a b18c1 (LS) Throttle body which is 60mm, because the b16a1 throttle body is only 58. Where as the D16y8 is 56.

b18c1 is a GSR....i thought all b series tb is 60mm..i could be wrong tho but thats what ive read in the past. h22 is 64 if i believe....
 

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The Great Weldini
91 civic
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here i went waaaaaaaaaay back on some research i did on this topic.

Consider this. You're increasing the size of the throttle body but you're not increasing the size of the plenum, runners, or ports. Do you have stock internals? You're most likely going to lose power from this mod.
Bottom line, if you don't have the mods to support this mod, you're going to lose power.
Because you don't have the mods to support it. You're trying to put more air into the motor than it can effectively use, the O2 sensor will not compensate for this...tuning the ECU will, though. There's a methodical order to building a motor, you're missing the compression, cam, and headwork for that large of a throttle body to do anything.
The best rule of thumb is to start from the cam outward. Get the cam that you want, head work to support the particular cam and setup, Skunk2 IM (for n/a) or Edelbrock IM (for f/i), and then a larger throttle body. The size throttle body you'll need ultimately depends on what CFM you want to flow. This way all of the mods are working together towards the same goal, getting the motor the amount of air it needs to make optimum power. That's what I mean when I say, "there's a method". Just slapping parts onto a motor will generally, as a rule of thumb, lose power.

And one of the most important rules about making power, just because it feels good to the ol' butt-dyno (we all love it, don't we?) doesn't neccessarily mean that you're making optimum power.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Can I not have my ECM chipped?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Good post Remoer, rep for you. But still the questions pends, stage 2 or 3?
 

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98 HX
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b18c1 is a GSR....i thought all b series tb is 60mm..i could be wrong tho but thats what ive read in the past. h22 is 64 if i believe....
You may be correct. I found this list from the company that ported my manifold and throttle body.

all d series throttle bodies are 55mm regardless of what people say
b series are 60mm except the old b18a1 integra which are 58mm
h series is 60mm
f series is either 55-56mm depending on year
k series is 62mm
Integra type r and s2000 are 62mm
zc's are 55mm

So my post is inaccurate if this one is correct.

I always see different numbers for throttle bodies, lol. It seems like each time someone else posts a different number.
 
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