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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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Discussion Starter · #1,201 ·
Havent updated in a while, figured I'd go ahead and do that.

Only one of the two cars made it to CHD this year, Aero had issues after the trans rebuild that I still need to sort out, but more on that later:

Wheel Car Tire Land vehicle Vehicle


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Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


Grey car made it, and it was a great time. Redid the brake pads on it before going, and changed oil.

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive wheel system Vehicle Gas


Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting Tire Tread


It ran like a champ trying to keep up with @Soul Engineering's wagon haha. Will definitely go back next year, hopefully its all the same group! @Soul Engineering's daughter brought her 4th gen Prelude out to cruise as well.

Got to meet OG's @transzex and @The_Acid_Beaver!

It was a fantastic cruise up, @Soul Engineering booked an awesome (very interesting) airbnb house for the weekend.

I think we all spent more time in the basement of that house trying to figure out what its purpose/grand plan was. There was more concrete laid down than most doomsday bunkers have lol, and we were all trying to figure out why haha. We left with only wild theories, none confirmed. But it was awesome. Also couldnt really figure out why the kitchen had like 25 120v recepticles in it... very specific electrical work done in there.

The meet up happened at this high school lot, that was a good idea, there had to have been close to 1000 cars there:

Sky Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood


@Soul Engineering found a video, this guy did a good walk through of the show, our cars made an appearance at around 10:50


CRXSeth was there as well:

 

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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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Discussion Starter · #1,203 ·
Working on the garage attic area a bit before pulling in grey car, but when she's in, there is a lot of work to be done.

Had to drain the water+water wetter out of the engine and oil cooling systems late sunday due to below freezing temps being reported at night for like a whole week straight. Winter is here in NC. Also added ethanol specific Stabil to the fuel tank.

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Additional changes/parts coming over the next few months to allow for progressive chassis upgrades throughout the season next year. I don't want to change all of these chassis upgrades all at once, I would love to do one at a time over the course of a few race weekends to feel the changes.
  • Chassis changes/upgrades
    • PCI rear wing
    • Undertray for rear of car
    • Possible spring rate change, and/or coilover change.... maybe
    • Honed front and rear roll center correction kit
    • Honed master cylinder delete/pivot relocation kit and master cylinder brace
    • New tires and rebalance, going to move to 100TW tires, either Nankang AR1's or Toyo Proxes R888R
    • PCI aluminum race dashboard install
    • Brake pads have already been upgraded from Wilwood BP-10 compound to BP-40 race duty compound

Grey car's engine/trans is coming out for an inspection and refresh. In its place will be as follows:
  • B16 mild turbo build
    • Goal is to build and tune for 350-400whp on E85, yet run at 280-320whp on track, basically same power goals as grey car's D series has right now, supported by the same engine and fuel management, just using a more reliable mechanical architecture.
    • RAC Turbo GT2860RS (disco turnip)
      • Stainless turbine housing
      • Xona mod turbine wheel
      • Vband inlet and outlet
      • Externally wastegated config
      • Water cooled
      • Shout out to @Soul Engineering for hooking me up with this turbo since he's a RAC dealer.
    • 81.5mm bore 2618 forged pistons at 10.5 or 10.75:1 CR (havent picked a brand yet)
    • Speedfactory B16A con rods
    • InlinePro B16 head studs
    • ProSeal Head Gasket
    • New Integra Type R oil pump
    • ACL Race Bearings, STD size
    • Ishihara Johnson teflon crank scraper
    • ATI race damper
    • Stock cams
    • Supertech valve springs and Ti retainers, mild spring pressure increase (from stock 50lb to 70lbs)
    • Some type of adjustable cam gears (havent decided on specific brand yet)
    • Moving from 2.5" to 3" exhaust and downpipe
    • Homemade stainless log style manifold with Vband flange
    • PPC Sport 4 clutch/pressure plate (320whp rated)
    • PPC 10.5lb SFI rated 10k rpm balanced chromoly flywheel
    • ARP flywheel bolts

  • Modded GSR transmission
    • Stock GSR gear ratios
    • Mfactory 4.9 final drive
    • Mfactory 1 way plate style LSD
    • Synchrotech carbon master rebuild kit
    • Synchrotech GSR trans tapered roller-to-ball diff bearing conversion
    • Speedfactory detent springs
    • Stock axles with B series halfshaft

The trans gearing and FD differences betwen B and D series powertrain setups for grey car, B series setup will likely be significantly faster getting up to speed, with unbelievably less turbo lag. Turn 10 @VIR, you won't catch me out of boost again lol.

Hopefully will have this setup ready for dyno in march/april, and maybe out for an april track day. If not, then definitely Hyperfest in May. My goal is to try for 4 events next year, to have more on track time dialing in the car and new chassis mods.



Currently, I have all components to button up the GSR trans. Most are here, diff and other related goodies are on the way. Its this one:


It will be set to 66% locking under accel.



This is the FD I've installed:


The Mfactory FD design has some excellent upgrades as far as oiling improvements over the stock 4.4 FD on the pinion end, check out those oil grooves! Also, the helical cut angle of attack is much more shallow/straighter, meaning it doesnt generate as much spread loading on the shaft bearings compared to stock, and can take more load overall:

Gas Auto part Machine Wood Metal


Mfactory 4.9 ring gear, waiting on diff fo show up on Friday:

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Took the gear stacks back apart to install 4.9 FD, cleaned and relubed all stack parts and synchrotech carbon master rebuild bearings/parts. They had been sitting out and exposed for a while, not taking chances!

Automotive tire Engineering Gas Machine Auto part


Hand Wood Automotive tire Gear Auto part


Its been over a year since I took this trans apart, so I went back through the motions to clean everything, install what I could before the diff showed up, and just generally making sure there were no missing parts haha:

Wood Engineering Gas Metalworking Machine tool


Wrapped the stacks and case half, awaiting on arrival of diff:

Wood Art Event Metal Glass




More pics and updates to come!
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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I wish florida would participate in "winter" and "cold"


You could always move "north" hahaha. It's literally like it was fall one day, maybe even late summer, then it got dark and gloomy and was 41 and raining yesterday. I don't really mind the cold, but cold rain is abysmal. Especially if you're working outside lol.

It's all coming together.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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it was amazing this morning. like someone left the a/c on for the whole town. 72*
 
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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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tomorrow is supposed to be in the 40s when I leave for work.
 

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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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Discussion Starter · #1,215 · (Edited)
Got the LSD installed finally. I had some questions about it that the instructions were not 100% clear on, but got them figured out. This primarily pertains to diff setup.

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There are no real good videos or instructions calling any of this out, so I'll try to explain what the gotchas were that took copious amounts of staring at it trying to visualize things before they made sense.

So many of the YouTube videos showcasing installs of these diffs just show guys buying these and slamming them in their transmissions. But these things are hugely configurable, and there are things you should check before install. A blind install could cause any of the following symptoms, since the guys at mFactory dont really assemble these to meet any kind of setting:
  • The diff could come set to 100% lock by default. This may not be ideal for your needs.
    • The diff could have discs arranged in 100% mode
    • You never really know until you check.
  • It may have too much locking action during slow speeds/low torque input
    • high preload/spring count setting, high locking disc configuration, or incorrect ramp type for your preload/disc config can all cause this symptom
  • 0% lockup on accel with a 1.0 way diff
    • If the crosspin is backwards relative to your desired direction of diff rotation, you'll have no lockup in forward direction, and all the lockup in reverse. Not ideal.
Through @Soul Engineering and @transzex, I found out (after it had shipped lol) that you can ask synchrotech to set the diff up to a particular setting before it ships.

Either way, having a diff this configurable, I wasnt afraid to dive in and try to learn about the different ways you can set this up, since it might be nice knowing this if in fact I ever wanted/needed to make a track side change (a PITA if it ever needed to be done that way, but at least I would be familiar with the particulars).


1. The housing end washers

These guys:
Automotive tire Font Engineering Machine Automotive design

These washers sit at the end of the two case halves, and are what the clutch discs press/rotate against.

There is a shallow groove in the case halve ends for them to sit in, but not much else keeping them centered, flat and true.

I found that it is easy to accidentally have the washer get picked up or jarred into laying on the edge of the groove, and not actually in the groove, while you are assembling and positioning the discs. The discs you want coated with a thin film of oil during assembly, and because of this, the oil film can easily allow the washer to stick to the first disc.

If you move or reposition the disc pack in any way during install, where you think that washer might have moved out of that groove, you might want to take a moment to stop and inspect this washer again.

If its not sitting flat in its groove, it could cause:
  • The clutch discs to bind/cock at an angle on the drive shaft bevel gear coupling, and when locking action gets applied after its installed to the car and being used, the plates could crack
  • The extra height of the clutch pack assembly due to the washer being up out of the groove, may cause the case halves to not close fully. Forcing the case halves shut with the washer like that might cause damage.


2. The crosspin direction, and ramp choices.

The crosspin:


This is sort of unclearly described in the mFactory instructions, but I got it figured out.

After taking the diff apart, i realized the entire center hub assembly that houses the axle bevel and spider gears could be flipped, allowing the crosspin to orient itself in either direction of rotation.

According to the instructions, the crosspin curved side should point opposite to the direction of normal forward diff rotation.

So if you put the lower diff half into the trans case, normal rotation is this way, when looking down on it from the top:
Automotive tire Automotive design Bottle Motor vehicle Gas


That means the crosspin, and therefore the center hub assembly, when viewed from the top must be oriented so that the pin can sit in the hub and ramp grooves, with the crosspin curved side pointing opposite (CCW) the direction of diff rotation (CW):
Eyewear Font Audio equipment Helmet Personal protective equipment


Mine came from the factory with crosspin and hub orientation backwards/upside down (pointing clockwise) when viewed from top. I'm glad I checked, otherwise no lockey lockey!



The ramp choices:

This is not called out in the mFactory instructions at all, as to when you might want to choose one over the other. I've since learned selection is based on many factors, and will differ based on end goals and overall diff setup.

The center hub has two ramp choices for the crosspin to operate on: 1) a longer/shallower ramp, or 2) a shorter/steeper ramp:
Finger Eyewear Bicycle part Automotive lighting Nail


It came from the factory with crosspin on ramp #1, which allows for easier movement of the crosspin to travel up the ramp, resulting in faster lock action and more leverage to apply clutch pack locking.

The other ramp, #2, is much shorter and steeper. This makes it harder for the crosspin to travel up the ramp, meaning locking action is slower, and takes more power to do so.

Because I've opted to run this diff at 66% locking (in agreeance with @Soul Engineering and @transzex) and 66% preload levels, I chose ramp #1, since the diff in this config will never wholly lock completely anyways, but will act and provide lockup action faster/sooner with lighter throttle application:

Here is what 66% lock disc config (either side) looks like on the 12 disc LSD:

Brown Font Wood Event Paper


Finger Wood Nail Thumb Automotive tire


This in theory should make it easier to modulate and sense traction balance and availability at light throttle/low power input levels, vs having to romp on it with a bunch of power to do the same thing. You're able to test traction availability with light throttle tip in/roll in, hopefully achieving less car upset in corners and more overall balance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,216 ·
Trans reassembled, and case closed up:

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Installed linkage to bench shift it, but B series linkage doesnt have a knuckle!

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Audio equipment


Wood Flooring Machine Folk instrument Metal


I'm gonna have to wait till I get grey car in, and rob all the good shifter stuff off it and swap it over.

Car should be inside tomorrow or wednesday, and will begin pulling D series powertrain out.
 
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