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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter · #841 ·
Lots of work done tonight.

Decided to do some other crappy labor intensive odds and ends while waiting for the silicone to setup around the waterpipe oring. Will test for leaks tomorrow.

Got a "made in USA right around the corner at the hydraulics shop" new turbo oil feed line with nice Parker fittings. Will reinstall the oil takeoff, lines and sensors AFTER i fill and bleed the cooling system lol:

Hypodermic needle Finger Audio equipment Wrist Service

Since the windshield is in, i put the steering wheel inside the car since dust and crap cant fall on the suede. Love this wheel :)

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Also got my new snowman gasket in. I'll change it out after first startup:

Vision care Eyewear Wood Window Table

Also bought some nice 1/2" silicone heater hose from the hydraulics shop for the oil cooler. Went ahead and installed/trimmed that:

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Still waiting on the RTV to setup, i continued looking for shit to do, so I went ahead and finally finished bolting the cage in all the way, and got the seats reinstalled so i can begin to measure and notch the door bars:

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Getting ever closer! So long as that damn water pipe doesnt leak again, I should have the car running this weekend. Fingers crossed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #843 ·
I spent way too much time this evening adjusting the seat, like almost 7 hours.

Properly looped and tied the shoulder straps and the 3 bar adjusters around the main hoop harness bar:

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After doing that, i tried a test fit to make sure the shoulder straps were correctly inclined while strapped in. The seat was really comfortable where it was positioned in the seat bracket, and the shoulder straps were angled perfectly, but a quick test with a helmet on, i couldnt sit upright without hitting the roll cage.

Trying to figure out what was going on, i realized my seat was not centered with the center of the steering column. It was almost 2 inches to the left. Tape measure indicates the steering column centerline, middle of seat is between the shoulder belt passthroughs:

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I had to reconfigure the PCI seat brackets per the instructions so the seat could slide to the right.

After getting the seat to align with the steering column, i locked it down and redid the clearance test. Still was uncomfortably close to the bar.

So then I lowered the seat in the bracket about 3 hole positions. This was finally enough that I felt comfortable with the side clearance, roughly 2-3 inches with helmet on, as well as my head being under the main hoop bar about 1.5":

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I ordered some high density roll cage padding, SFI certified, to pad the cage areas around my helmet.

Then once I got the helmet clearance sorted and felt comfortable, I had to adjust the submarine strap because it was now too high having lowered the seat over an inch.

When the seat was the inch higher, i could easily access the 3 bar adjuster for the sub strap. Couldnt get my hand in there now. So had to pull the seat, adjust a little, reinstall, test, and adjust again till it was at the correct height at my waist.

I think the worst part is messing with the bolts that fasten to the sides of the bucket seat. Anytime the outer shell fabric moves and the bolt wasnt in the hole, the fabric covers the hole so you cant see it. This made adjustment of seat height by itself at least 1.5 hours longer than it should have been....

Either way, that horror is over. On to the next!

I'm going to trim and install the exhaust side skirt tomorrow, so I can have both mounted finally.

I will also stop on body work, and chip away at the remaining engine work. Need to go get some initial start oil, oil filter, fuel filter and lIke 5 gallons of E85 tomorrow as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #845 ·
Got the side skirts finalized, exhaust side trimmed too! they look so good:

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Went to install this beauty (thanks Aero :)) and refill the cooling system:

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Hand Camera lens Digital camera Camera accessory Reflex camera

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All was going well, till my butterfingers fumbled the waterpump right over the headlight!

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Fuck! There goes $50 bucks for a new pair of headlights..... that bummed me out, so walked away and didnt work on the car the rest of the evening.

On a brighter note, got my first start oil, oil filter and fuel filter. Also bought final oil, 10w40 full synthetic. The 40 weight is right in the sweet spot for my bearing clearances, so I'm happy.

Also bought a proper helmet. My old one had this fake pleather liner coming out, and flaking all over the place, plus it was snell SA2005, pretty out of date.

Did my research for a few days doing comparisons, and pulled the trigger on this guy:

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Engine will hopefully be running within a day or two. I also need to work on getting the new hood cut into for the latches before paint.

Less than 2 full weeks before the event, excited!
 

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Discussion Starter · #847 ·
Went out to the garage for a couple hours to fit the AeroCatches into the new hood.

They were the last "big custom thing" that I needed to address with a decent level of measurement and accuracy. They are going to look really good after paint.

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The last two "big" remaining things are door bar installation, and painting the remaining fenders, hood and bumpers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #848 ·
Water pump, tensioner and timing belt installed.

Overhead done - valve lash checked and set, head studs retorqued, cam cap torque rechecked, new valve cover gasket and plug tube seals installed.

Dipstick and lower timing cover installed.

Keyway and custom key installed, Loctite 660 applied, ARP lube installed under crank bolt head and washer, red loctite around the crank bolt threads. Followed OE procedure, torque to 14ft/lbs, then an additional 90. The "90" end torque was about 190ft/lbs. I'll sleep comfortably :)

New BKR7Es installed, gapped to .021.

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Getting closer.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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OOOOoooooo, you got the locking Aerocatches. I love mine, however I didn't get they lockable ones. They work great on the wagon
 
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Discussion Starter · #851 ·
I will say it now. I absolutely hate this KTuned oil take off.

Its a great idea, but the convergence of the 1/8" NPT fittings towards the center cause way too many problems.

The first being outright interference with other fittings converging towards the center. Even the little block off plugs that come with it will sink down too far into the adapter, causing interference with the rear most port (the hole with BSPT threads for the stock oil pressure switch). Trying to thread the stock OPS into the rear most hole, with a block off plug installed to any of the other 3 holes, causes contact and binding, to the point where the OPS will jam, yet not be tight enough in the actual hole to prevent an oil leak.

The second being reusability. I've had to take this fitting off a couple times for things not related to the fitting. Definitely noticed that this fitting deforms/expands when tapered fittings/lines/sensors get installed. The first install of the turbo line and oil pressure gauge sender were ok, the fittings threaded in and began to stop against the taper. Upon removing a fitting/line/sensor and reinstalling, the fitting on reinstallation sinks lower into the adapter, to the point where there is now interference with either the stock OPS or a block off plug.

Because of all the interference issues due to adapter hole expansion, I've literally had to cut ALL 3 tapered fittings I have installed into the adapter, in HALF in order to get them to fit without touching! To keep from leaking, i had to install pipe dope on each fitting AND a copper crush washer.

If it leaks during initial cranking oil pressure, or first start up, I'm going to have a flex line built that threads into the block which leads to a brass 4 way, and build a bracket for it to attach to the bottom of the intake manifold. Last straw for this KTuned adapter. I feel confident that what I've done it won't leak, but we shall see.

Having experienced this heartache, i will absolutely never be using another one of these KTuned adapters again unless they design a V3 that solves the fitting convergence issue.

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Discussion Starter · #852 ·
Got the oil cooler coolant lines clamped, and cooling system filled.

Checked for leaks under vacuum, no issues. Not sure if you guys have seen one of these cooling system vacuum fillers in action, so i decided to take a short video showing how it works. Read the vid description, I spelled it all out :)


Taped off and ziptied up the external cooler lines for another day :)

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As stated above in my KTuned rant, the oil take off devices are installed, as was the oil cooler and oil filter:

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Line ran loosely to turbo since will need to remove later for bleeding. Distributor also installed too.

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Still need to install alt belt, trans oil, fuel filter, E85, engine oil, then go through priming and leak checks.

Very close to start up!!
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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First used that type of vacuum coolant filler on a Volkswagen I did a timing belt on. They have no way to bleed that dang pink coolant lol. No bleeder means vacuum is a must. Seems like it didn't have a radiator cap either. Just the round coolant reservoir.

Either way, as Hannibal from the A Team would say: "I love it when a plan comes together"!
 

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oil adapter funnn ..

I've been dooing the 1/8npt gooped and cross threaded in the block an line to the shock tower into a three way ...
always hated hanging shit off the block..
 

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Discussion Starter · #856 ·
So got the rest of the engine finished up.

Checking for oil leaks during cranking, bled the turbo oil supply line, all looked good under 35PSI cranking pressure.

Primed the fuel system, checked for leaks, all ok.

Went to crank, no start. Not getting spark for some reason.

The engine is together, and I'm happy, and not seeing any leaks under extended cranking with 35PSI oil pressure is a good first sign that the oil take off is alright.

I'll diagnose the no start later tonight or tomorrow. In Neptune, I show RPM and im getting injector pulse verified with a test light, so either the external ICM, coil or some wiring/pins/connectors decided to take a dump. I'll get out the oscilloscope and figure it out :)
 

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So got the rest of the engine finished up.

Checking for oil leaks during cranking, bled the turbo oil supply line, all looked good under 35PSI cranking pressure.

Primed the fuel system, checked for leaks, all ok.

Went to crank, no start. Not getting spark for some reason.

The engine is together, and I'm happy, and not seeing any leaks under extended cranking with 35PSI oil pressure is a good first sign that the oil take off is alright.

I'll diagnose the no start later tonight or tomorrow. In Neptune, I show RPM and im getting injector pulse verified with a test light, so either the external ICM, coil or some wiring/pins/connectors decided to take a dump. I'll get out the oscilloscope and figure it out :)
bet it's super simple dimple..

just jiggle it.....:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #858 ·

Got it figured out :)

So I did have spark, injector pulse and fuel pressure. Yet no fuel was entering cylinders lol.

Manually applying power and ground to the injectors with a 12v dewalt battery, barely any clicky clicky.

So i used the dewalt battery and quickly but manually pulsed the injectors, finally after about 15 seconds each of manic pulsing action they started to make their normal clicky clicky sound.

Guess the pintles were stuck shut from them sitting in relatively dried wd40 for almost 9 months lol.

Primed the pump manually, manually pulsed the injectors with the dewalt battery, and once the E85 rushed passed the pintles they really cleaned up and sounded excellent.

Aftet flooding the cylinders this way lol, i purged what I could then reinstalled everything. Left the injector harness unplugged, and attempted to start. She fired right up, ran on what fuel was in the cylinders, and died.

I verified the injectors were not leaking or stuck open. Reconnected the injector harness, recranked, and she stayed running on her own.
 

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Thank you.
It's good to learn from someone else's experience.
 
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