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A passion that traveled across international boarders

47409 Views 1377 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Oldcivicjoe
Honestly, I don't know where I should start. Maybe a little bit of background first!

I have been messing with honda's for years, almost 15 to be exact (since I got my license). Many of the honda's I have owned and help friends repair in my youngeryears were the starting point of knowing what line of work I wanted to be in.

I love cars (anything with an engine really), more specifically diagnosing really difficult drivability issues with them. Getting stuck on a problem really pushed me to learn more about things I was unfamiliar with. Through my diagnostic experiences as a vehicle technician, I have learned an incredible amount of internal combustion engine theory and operation including all of the additional systems that support their overall operation and the mechanics at work which ultimately couple the engine output to usable work at the wheels (the full circle if you will).

UNFORTUNATELY, like most people can probably attest, I'm not made of money, I don't have lots of money, I can't spend lots of money all the time (unless I want my wife and son to starve and have no home), I really had to think hard 5 times before spending $50 bucks without jeopardizing something of a higher importance, but that honestly never stopped me from continuing to pursue learning about so many really cool tips and tricks related to Honda's on the countless number of member driven community forums out there (the last year and a bit have been right here!).

I've tuned honda's, built engines/transmissions for honda's, done stupid/cool things with honda's, and most of the time it has always been with someone else's money. All I have ever been truly able to spend on things was time, and I took full advantage of a learning opportunity when it presented itself on someone else's dime.

I am at a stage in my life where money management is still a HUGE part of my responsibility for my overall family goals (as I am still not made from it), but over the past two years things have started to get, dare I say it, slightly "easier" (knock on wood) for me to have like an extra hundred bucks or so every month to put towards my hobbies and things I like to do.

Like most people here, working on their cars is therapeutic and stress relieving. Often times it can turn into downright addiction! I think I'm in the stress relieving group, as I spend time and money on my projects but it's not the end of the world if I have to not touch them for weeks/months at a time.

So without more boring self introductions, I wanted to share an ongoing project that started in Toronto, Ontario, Canada and ended up in North Carolina.


Here she is, the d-series honda platform that has continued to be my hobby that started 2 years ago: the 1999 Honda Civic SI (Canadian, EX in USA) with a low mileage D16Y8 installed by the owner who wanted to get it back on the road eventually (original engine blew up). He lost interest but had money to buy newer toys to pass the time. This car sat in the back of a truck shop for almost 2 years, and the owners of the place were threatening the owner to tow it away if he didn't move it. So I bought it for $200 bucks from him because the engine ran and it was at least worth that by itself, and had it towed to my house.

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Afterwards, flipped the engine back upright, and ready to begin final top end assembly. Cam gears placed on the cam snouts:
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Trimmed the lower timing cover to clear the secondary tensioner:
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Added a piece of silicone hose to the only nipple I left on the manifold, for the fuel pressure regulator, and installed new coolant temp sensors/fan switch:
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Stepping back and looking at 7 hours of work with the manifold mocked up. A snail will be hanging off of it soon!
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It wont look like much of an update physically, but I got a decent amount of work done last night.

Tires came in:
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M10x1.0 tap and die came in, got the fitting installed to the intake for the vacuum block:
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Got a whole bunch of randomness buttoned up on the engine:
  • Torqued the head studs
  • Valve lash all set loose
  • Lubed cams and cam caps with assembly lube, installed orings in a few places for the cam caps and their oiling passages, dab of RTV on the ends, installed the GE end cap, then torqued cam caps.
  • Cam seals installed
  • Rockershaft end caps torqued
  • Cam gears torqued, adjustment screws torqued
  • VTEC solenoid gasket on, and torqued
  • Distributor bolts all finger snugged
  • Oil cooler bolt torqued
  • Water pipe orings installed, thermostat housing torqued down
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This is the last batch of parts that I have to install, but some of them wont be installed till the engine is in the car or down off the engine stand:
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  • Flywheel and clutch
  • Flywheel and pressure plate bolts
  • ATI damper
  • Gates blue TB
  • Valve cover gasket
  • Intake manifold gasket
Once I install the TB, time the engine, and install/torque the ATI damper, the engine and trans are getting installed into the car. I'll leave intake manifold off for now.

Much of what needs to happen still can only really take place with the engine/trans in the bay:
  • Turbo manifold flange placement
  • Wastegate flange placement
  • Vacuum block placement and mounting
  • Shift linkage change over, replacing D series for B series, amd swapping over the Ktuned shifter
  • Measurement and placement of exhaust tubing
More to come!
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Honed roll center correction stuff came in today, this kit is gonna be sweet:
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Also got a hole saw kit from HF for cutting holes in the dash for gauges:
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Got valve lash done, water pump, engine mount and lower timing cover torqued down, TB installed and tensioned, and ATI damper installed.

Since the damper center hub is separable from the outer ring, on to the kerosene heater it went. Helped it a bit with some mapp gas, brought it up to about 350-400 degrees, lubed the crank snout with a touch of engine oil, pulled it off the heater with welding gloves, and it slid right on about 3/4 way, and very light turning the crank bolt to pull it the rest of the way home.
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Will also need to find an alternator belt, I had no idea how underdriven the ATI damper actually was haha, this is a stock belt for the stock balancer:
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Cleaned up for the night, went back inside. She's getting there!
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Blow off valve fun!

Robbed the incredibly oversized Tial BOV off of green car to install on grey car. Bought some adapters that converted the HKS SSQV snap ring mount to a vband for the Tial. Prevented me from having to cut up the intercooler piping!
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I also bought a couple adapters to try and do the reverse, install the HKS onto green car without modifying the charge pipe. Bought to different flanges that fit their respective mounting types, hacked em up, ground off any anodized coating, drilled a few holes, and welded them together:
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Finished welding up the log as well, turned out pretty good. Its ready for a RAC to hang on it!
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Put the hole saw kit to good use:
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On good authority from a concerned buddy, also confirmed how much the flywheel/clutch mass is. Broke out the refrigerant scale to check, he likes that the whole setup is under 20lbs:
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Also have to take a few things to the machine shop monday, 2 Z6 cranks to polish:
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Also ordered a phone dash mounting apparatus combo. After doing a lot of research, no one vendor seemed to have a "checked all the boxes to avoid phone flying out the window" solution that I was comfortable with, so I pieced one together.

Its going to consist of a bolt on twin ball RAM mount, with a 1/4"-20 threaded post,
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So I could thread a beast of a phone clamp on to it:
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A guy who works in my company's marketing department is a pro videographer, and does our video shoots and other in house video content generation. Tens of thousands of dollars of rigging equipment, and saw him using this gem one day for something.

Its a Promaster dovetail phone clamp, typically used for photography tripods, gimbles, etc.

But seeing as how its all aluminum, has a threaded hole in the body, an aluminum knob and stainless threaded rod for tightening down against the phone, AND a lock to prevent the tightener from loosening, this was my must have solution.

Under $60 shipped for these two if anyone is looking for a similar robust phone mount solution for track duty.
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Is that the y8/z6 crank wear comparison side by side picture?
Updated the post, forgot that pic was part of the upload!!

No, but thats a good idea! It is actually your crank, next to another Z6 crank.

I found another one on ebay a while ago for pretty cheap, in perfect spec, so I jumped on it.

Sending them both for polishing, so either are ready to go back in the turbo D engine.
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I noticed the keyway repair on te right one, lol. Looks about as smooth as the day I shipped it 😃
Its still bang on OE specs, both of them are. Its amazing!
So... officially the kona wheeled is dubbed the Disco Turnip? Or should it be the rutabaga?
I've never had a rutabaga before, so I dont know haha. I have had turnip!

the stustustubaga lol

I like the rutabaga
The sturturturturtur.... nip haha

I didnt have any thick walled pipe around here to make a collector for the turbo inlet vband, so I made one using an old 2.5" exhaust pipe as a bending mandrel, and used some mild steel flat stock that was laying around from a piece of scrap left over from a sliding closet barn door conversion in the house, and broke out the oxy/acetylene torch to shape a circle:
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Then stuck it in the band saw, pipe and all, to cut the overlaping flat stock right at the parting line, then put it in the vice to make the ends butt up against each other, surface fusion welded the butt joint together, and shaped it again into a circle in the vice:
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Then properly welded the seam, and followed with welding the vband flange onto it:
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Then notched the sidewall out to fit the manifold outside profile:
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Its at the point now where I need to determine collector to manifold position.

This is a much smaller turbo in physical size compared to the GT3271, so I'm going to keep it as low and as 90 degrees to the bottom of the manifold as I can, which will keep the downpipe further away from the radiator compared to last time, and still be close enough to the intercooler inlet piping so I dont have too many mods to make.

Honestly I will probably wait until the engine is inside thr car before determining final manifold position.

Engine and trans into the car coming up next!
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Engine and trans are in the car now lol.

One of the most unbelieveable things appeared after test fitting the turbo to check position and placement. It LINED UP with the hot side charge pipe coupler from old turbo, AND the collector is magically centered with the log manifold. Couldn't have planned for that to have been more perfect hahaa
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Once it was in, I was seriously concerned with how tall the engine sat in the bay. I didnt think the hood would close without hitting, but damn did it ever, with about 1/2" to spare. It looks so much taller than a D series in that bay.
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Cant believe I didnt take "stand back and look" pics last night haha
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This has been a long time coming.

5 years since I first picked it up:
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3 years since I first took it to the machine shop to start its refresh:
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Got the phone mount installed, this will be the placement to act as a dash:
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Apps running in splitscreen will be Tunerview and Harry's Lap Timer:
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Had to rob the water fittings of old turbo, so took a side by side size comp pic:
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Touched up the burnt areas on the valve cover:
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Also pulled bumper cover off to inspect intercooler and charge piping, i suspected a mouse may have gotten inside while it was sitting open, but nope, everything was fine.
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Got all the fittings in to move to a proper 30 micron E85 friendly fuel filter, as well as retain the fuel pressure sensor. Just waiting on the hose to connect the filter to the rail banjo. Will secure this assembly to the firewall with a couple P clamps.
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Started to investigate the new swift springs. Started cleaning things up, lubing and reinstalling.
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I knew going into things that the inner diameter of the standard KTuned springs were 62mm, and the perches are designed with this ID in mind. ID is 3mm larger with the swift springs, i didnt think 3mm would allow for too much additional movement around the perch center alignment cone, but its pretty significant.

It was beyond my "it'll be fine" inner monologue threshold, so it was probably going to be pretty dangerous left that way, so i fabbed some stuff up to give the spring more of a perch to sit on, as well as center the spring and remove the play. Since I'm changing springs in all 4 corners, i'm making 4 of these.

Before:
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After:
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Should turn out good. Need to finish cutting things and grinding/smoothing, then weld everything up.
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It's been a while, lots of life related things lately...

Changing jobs being the biggest one. But on my last day, I was in a meeting in the marketing war room, lounging in a chair, i look over and notice a drawing on my boss' whiteboard in his office from like 50ft away, and couldn't help myself because I'm 12 at heart.
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On a side note, picked up a complete D16A6 with a Z6 head from my machinist for $500. He was liquidating inventory abandoned by customers, sitting for longer than 1 year without payment.

He built the head: valves, guides, lapped seats, stem seals. Cam is in great shape as are the rocker pads. Resurfaced.

Block needs some love, but will be a good CSS candidate in the future. I had no idea A6 blocks came with 2 piece girdles/main caps, and that the main caps were steel until I saw this example.

Crank is perfect, and was micropolished, which means I now have 3 good Z6/A6 cranks in my arsenal, 2 with perfect keyways. Need to bag them all.
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Grey car progress updates.

Spring perch (i don't even know what to call them, adapters, modifiers, shoes?) are finished, and fronts buttoned up:
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PTFE hose kit and fuel rail banjo to 6an adapter came in, built a hose to run between new fuel filter and rail:
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Got the vacuum block mounted to the firewall, 6an PTFE hose connected between it and intake:
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The vac block is going to be perfect for the BOV and wastegate/boost control solenoid plumbing.

Got a B series specific upper rad hose to run the distance to the cylinder head water neck, then cut it strategically to place the water temp gauge thermocouple mount:
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Made a small bracket to be able to utilize my 2 wire IAC from the D series on the B manifold. It was either this, or spend another $100... It lined up everywhere perfect, except the one hole. Bent the bracket just right so that it was slightly below the IAC mounting surface, so when the bolt tightened down it would actually clamp the IAC to the manifold with force. Locked it down with a nut and some red loctite:
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Used oxy/acetylene to heat the collector pipe so I could flatten the ends in a vice and make them straight instead of curved:
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Using the rough finalized collector, took a sharpie and traced the inner diameter to the manifold, then cut out the hole needed to exit into the collector:
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Tacked the collector on to the manifold:
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Couldn't position the collector too much at 90 degrees, since the dipstick tube was in the way, so made it more like 45 degrees.

In either way, the car is officially turbo again lol, i mean it's there, and that's what counts haha
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There is so much more room for activities with this turbo! It's a much better size for the form factor :)

Rough location of where the wastegate will be positioned:
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Whipped this up in about 4 hours total today with an angle grinder, bandsaw and vice.

Needed something to cover upper TB and gears from random rocks, debris, nuts/bolts, fingers, etc, and allow clearance for the secondary tensioner, yet still be fast and easy to remove if necessary.

Start/rough in:
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Bend and trim things:
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Weld things:
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Fasten things (need better hardware, but the concept works):
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Also doubles as a place to add stickers lol
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Got the manifold done with wastegate tube and flange too:

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