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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter · #643 ·
I managed to find my other OEM oil cooler too! This one came off a B18.

Put em both in the ultrasonic cleaner for a bath in soapy water:

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I wonder if i could stack them? Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #645 ·
Mmmm, ultrasonic cleaner. Need to get me one of those.
Nowadays, they are dirt cheap honestly!

Technically i didnt buy this, my buddy bought it as part of "shop supplies" while i was working on his motorcycle haha. 4 carbs and random fasteners and parts to clean. This is a 40khz model, works great on soft cast aluminum, doesnt etch like the lower frequencies models do. The 20khz models will descale rust from cast iron, too rough for aluminum bits!

I dont think it was much more than 60usd for the 3L capacity version.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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The one my machine shop uses is a 55 gallon heated with variable frequency, some times when im not pestering them they send parts back that look like fresh castings. I priced it one time, for the low low price of $9,499, fml... Gotta dream big sometimes though I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #647 ·
Got some decent work done on the car tonight!

New oil pressure gauge installed and wired in. Still need to run some loom for the boost gauge tube and the sending unit harness through the firewall grommet and down to the sensor location. Other than buttoning up the dash insert, its ready to go:

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Also messed with the KTuned oil pressure sensor takeoff. This thing was very well engineered! It threads into the block fully almost 1/2" with a straight tight-fitting non-tapered male end, to provide as much fitting-to-block contact as possible inside the oil sender hole itself, providing much more lateral strength when accessories and extra weight are attached to the takeoff points.

Then there is a jamb nut that is loosened out a bit with an oring in a groove that presses, deforms and seals against the block to seal the fitting, and provide really good lateral leverage support against the actual fitting and block metals.

This way for any accessories attached, the block threads are no longer the only thing having to deal with both clamping forces AND lateral forces. The fitting itself bolsters the entire assembly straight with use of the jamb nut, and transfers the majority of any lateral force directly into the block, not strictly through the threads anymore. Very clever!

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Playing with adapter body rotation. The cool thing with the jamb nut, is you actually have a bit of rotational direction choice. You probably get 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn to position the ports however you want, then when your satisfied with the location, lock down the jamb nut! No longer do you have to continue to tighten a tapered fitting to get it to seal, and conform to a position. Positioning and tightening of this fitting are separate and independent tasks!

Making sure the fitting has a hole facing the place where my turbo oil line will be:

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Discussion Starter · #648 ·
Put the driver side skirt on tonight as well, and test fit the passenger side.

These things are going to look sweet! And they remove with 3 screws. In case i need to jack up the car from the side, pulling these things off are so easy!

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The nice thing about these skirts are how the aluminum has been bent along the top to cover the gap when the door is opened:

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These skirts are an inch shorter than my last skirts, giving me false hope that there will be exhaust clearance without cutting haha. Im pretty sure the only reason clearance exists right now is because the downpipe is not attached. I'll have to recheck clearance when i get the exhaust bolted back up. Not cutting things unless i absolutely have to!

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Discussion Starter · #649 · (Edited)
Cage is also ordered as of 13 minutes ago! Should be 3-4 weeks build time, then a week to ship it to me.

Also asked Bad Guys an ETA on the oil pump this afternoon, havent heard back yet. This week will have been 3 weeks since they said 3 weeks out :)

Focusing on paint and body supplies now. I have an appointment tomorrow with the color match dude at NAPA to start mixing my paint. He just wants me to confirm the color and other properties before he starts to blend things, and of course pay him. I'll also pick up the other things ill need while I'm there like masking supplies, sandpapers, couple quarts of primer, those filter funnels, and possibly even a respirator. And 2 things of Bondo just in case. All this will be like $400 bucks.

I'll go to home depot for painters drop plastic, a staple gun, some air filters and a few rolls of duct tape. Backyard paint booth should get put up in no time! About $70.

Then to harbor freight to get an airline water separator and a spray gun. About $150.

Some other shit i need to order/waiting on (about $450):
  • 1 more quart of synchrotech MTF (got), $20
  • Oil cooler o rings (got), $18
  • Fuel rail stand bolts (got), $3 entry fee
  • 2 gallons Amsoil Dominator 10w30 or 15w50 (depends on crank journals oil clearance end measurements), $13-15 per quart
  • ACL main and rod bearings, STD size (got) $100
  • New ARP rod bolts (got), $60-70
  • Brush bottle of ARP ultratorque lube (got) $15
  • Crankshaft front and rear main seal savers (got) $60
  • Valve cover gasket, oil pump gasket set, oil pan gasket, another set of spark plugs (got) $45

So about another $1000 bucks for this stuff, and about $200 to get the crank refreshed. Still need to take it to the crank rebuilder to see if the snout can be rewelded, but if not, im just going to go the route i was planning as a fallback, cut the ramp flat and shape a piece of keyway steel to fit, then pull the miata boys keyway fix with some Loctite 660, and call it done.

She should be back on the road by mid-July!
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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I bet that crank specs good, lmao. Its ran 10w30 valvoline synthetic max life, on stock everything til 176k miles, when I bought the car from a customer that calls me meho.
it then got put into my car and daily driven til 237k miles when the Honda replacement head gasket blew, I put my original head with a quick and dirty port match, valve lap and seals on it and ran it another 70k. Never knocked once, but the exhaust guides went and gave up the ghost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #651 · (Edited)
At Napa getting paint. The guy was super knowledgable, and set me up with a commercial grade single stage paint.

This is the color, the one on the bottom:

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Single stage is limited in colors, but i dont really care lol.

Funny that this paint guy also runs at VIR with NASA in the spec Miata class, and uses single stage paint on his car lmao.

Oh, and the paint was only $100 for the gallon since it isnt urethane. All the other materials needed as well came out less than $200 bucks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #654 · (Edited)
I bet that crank specs good, lmao. Its ran 10w30 valvoline synthetic max life, on stock everything til 176k miles, when I bought the car from a customer that calls me meho.
it then got put into my car and daily driven til 237k miles when the Honda replacement head gasket blew, I put my original head with a quick and dirty port match, valve lap and seals on it and ran it another 70k. Never knocked once, but the exhaust guides went and gave up the ghost.
Bro, you werent joking haha. Got a chance to measure journals today during lunch, fucking spot on the service manual specs lmao:

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This is excellent news. I should be able to run STD bearings after a micropolish, and continue to run 10w30 or thicker at the track.

Going to put my old crank and rod bearings back into the girdle and caps, torque them down, and use my bore gauge to give me an idea of what oil clearance will be. If im within 1thou, im gonna roll with the micropolish :)
 

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Awesome! Glad that part at least worked out, just that keyway to deal with now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #656 · (Edited)
Started tearing the car down for paint and body work. Its been a while since the front bumper was off!

Bumpers, fenders, headlights, taillights, mirrors, trim all got pulled off. Gonna prep and paint them separately.

Need to go to hardware store today and get a piece of sheet metal for the sunroof plug, and some more cable clamps for the outlet boxes and breaker panel to hold the 6/3 in place.

Here's the $400 extension cord about ready to get rolled out lmao:

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Started messing with the spray gun, getting it setup:

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Installed an air line dryer near the compressor, still need to get a gun mounted pressure regulator.

Trans is almost out as well. Crank will be out soon so i can check oil clearance for the new one.

More pics coming!
 

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Discussion Starter · #659 ·
Some updates. More parts roll in:

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  • ARP rod bolts
  • Crankshaft front and rear seal savers
  • Quart of MTF
  • A random box of grommets
  • Oil cooler o rings
  • Fresh set of BKR7Es
  • Front and rear oil seal sets
  • Oil pan gasket
  • VC gasket

I have almost all parts, materials, etc to finish the car start to finish. Only things left are:
  • Roll cage (being built)
  • Oil pump (funny story on this. Another post.)
  • Piece of sheet metal for sunroof plug
  • Main and rod bearings (still waiting to measure oil clearance)
  • Crank in for a polish
    • Still want to take to crank builder for welding advice.
    • Have everything else to restore the shaft end with keyway metal if needed as a fallback.
Some pics of the state of the car, and random other stuff. Should have trans out tomorrow evening and get bearings measured:

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Got fuel rail stand bolts as well from a junker :)

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Hopefully i have less throbbing tomorrow when i work on the car. Came pretty close to losing a thumb yesterday. Thanks to dad bod reflexes, i got lucky. Funny thing is, ive done the same thing 3 times before. You'd think i would learn lmao:

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Discussion Starter · #660 ·
So, the Bad Guys oil pump story.

I bought this item a month ago, with the intention of having to wait on a 3 week back order.

Well, 3 weeks went by so i reached out to check status. Turns out, the dude who runs Bad Guys has a pump supply problem out of Japan. Yamada can't make pumps fast enough to fill demand. The OE engine build supply is filled first, then dealers, then aftermarket. He's been waiting on a shipment of pumps from Japan for almost 8 months for all kinds of engines, simply cant get his hands on any direct from factory. Getting them elsewhere, they are marked up to high hell. He says the worst are the K Series OEM pumps, they are gold right now. No one can get new stock, OEs and dealers are on a 4 week backlog themselves, which keeps getting pushed back.

So I asked if i provided a core would that speed things up? The next question out of his mouth was "is it new?" I said "of course". Then he asked how many i had lol.

I happened to have a buddy who had 3 OEM Y8 pumps still brand new in box, never opened.

Needless to say, Bad Guys was interested haha. I bought all 3 from my friend for $200 a piece, and sold 2 to Bad Guys.

All 3 are on their way to me, then on their way to Cali. He says he should be able to turn mine around in a couple weeks.

As long as i get a pump by end of July, im still golden to make the next VIR track day.

Moral of story here: if you want Bad Guys to build you a pump sometime soon, source a core from elsewhere and provide it to him. He only works on NEW OEM cores.
 
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