Honda D Series Forum banner

461 - 480 of 490 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
just dropped a couple of new intake valves off at the shop today. they have the block bored to 75.5, crank polished and the head should be finished soon. just got my first full paycheck in two months, gonna catch up on some bills and go back to ordering parts next check.

wanted to ask if your running a brake booster? I'm seriously thinking about deleting mine and putting a bias controller in the cabin for when I go to VIR. Harder brake pedaling required, but I'm hoping for a little more even braking. just a thought as I want to take care of all the inside cabin stuff when I do the interior which will be early in the build since a stick shift is first on the to do list.

how is the water getting in? sunroof delete?
 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI
Joined
·
759 Posts
Discussion Starter #462
just dropped a couple of new intake valves off at the shop today. they have the block bored to 75.5, crank polished and the head should be finished soon. just got my first full paycheck in two months, gonna catch up on some bills and go back to ordering parts next check.

wanted to ask if your running a brake booster? I'm seriously thinking about deleting mine and putting a bias controller in the cabin for when I go to VIR. Harder brake pedaling required, but I'm hoping for a little more even braking. just a thought as I want to take care of all the inside cabin stuff when I do the interior which will be early in the build since a stick shift is first on the to do list.

how is the water getting in? sunroof delete?
Nice! Glad money is back right, this shit has been rough.

Yup, running a brake booster here. Brake Bias adjuster is a good thing to have available regardless :)

Water gets in when I drive during rain, my strategically placed drain holes in the floor boards let water up and in haha. But when I park, it all drains out. I try my best to not drive the car when it rains, but sometimes it can't be helped lol
 

·
Registered
89 EF 4wd sedan
Joined
·
639 Posts
just dropped a couple of new intake valves off at the shop today. they have the block bored to 75.5, crank polished and the head should be finished soon. just got my first full paycheck in two months, gonna catch up on some bills and go back to ordering parts next check.

wanted to ask if your running a brake booster? I'm seriously thinking about deleting mine and putting a bias controller in the cabin for when I go to VIR. Harder brake pedaling required, but I'm hoping for a little more even braking. just a thought as I want to take care of all the inside cabin stuff when I do the interior which will be early in the build since a stick shift is first on the to do list.

how is the water getting in? sunroof delete?
Check out the Honed brake booster delete kit if you go down that route.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
that set off my anti virus not even clicking on the link?
same here.
But thanks for the recommendation. Pretty sure I will go with a Chase Bays kit that puts the bias controller in the cabin. They seem to track test their stuff. My little experience with road coursing many years ago was plagued by inconsistent braking problems. everytime i went off the track was caused by the brakes not working the same as they did the last time in the same corner. And it wasn't due to brake fade. I switched to some race pads and drilled rotors but had the same random problems. The circle trackers swore it was inconsistency in the brake booster, but I never got to test this.

Talon, I got my engine parts back so I guess I will have to look at new excuses for not working on the car. lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Water gets in when I drive during rain, my strategically placed drain holes in the floor boards let water up and in haha. But when I park, it all drains out. I try my best to not drive the car when it rains, but sometimes it can't be helped lol
If your getting that much water, it might be from direct wheel spray. Obviously, some removable temp plugs or "strategically" placed "deflector shields" could help. Funny story, i had a big lifted bronco with the same water problem years ago, but from rust. A girl I was seeing dropped an unopened drink can in the floor board beside the door one night. We heard it hit the ground after falling through the hole hidden underneath the carpet then explode when it went under the rear tire. I thought it was hilarious, she dumped me. oh well


Anywho, when you get this car dialed in and decide to go to a road course, i would like to go. I have lots of camera gear. we can get you hooked with some cameras and spin a cool video!

You think getting good steady video in a car is hard, try it in a boat at close to 100mph. This is one of mine.


 

·
Registered
89 EF 4wd sedan
Joined
·
639 Posts
that set off my anti virus not even clicking on the link?
Dunno why it's just a link to their site. Maybe it was my comment sounded spammy... Just google honed you'll find their stuff. I've heard good things from their kit, it changes the leverage point of the pedal so you get more mechanical advantage when you hit the pedal.

My experience with Chase bays brakes stuff has been shit. Bought a brake line kit from them for the EF and it was all garbage, nothing fit. A friend of mine had the same experience. Lines way too short, wierd angles that made lines not fit... I ended up using 2 lines out of the kit, and had the rest remade locally.
 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI
Joined
·
759 Posts
Discussion Starter #468
So the time has come to setup a proper battery disconnect system on this car (mainly since I'm probably not going to do anything to disturb this new external coil setup and get it to toggle with a key on signal).

I've been trying to decide how I best want this to work, since I like the idea of being able to disconnect main power from outside the vehicle, but also don't want the disconnect to be painfully obvious if
  1. I happen to daily drive the car and park it in a parking lot and have people mess with it.
  2. Have something sticking out so it is easy to accidentally mess with during a race
It still needs to be obvious with a decal identifying the position of the disconnect, so it's not like it can be hidden since race officials need to be able to find it in the event of an accident, but I've shy'd away from the idea of a large manual disconnect since I don't like the idea of running more heavy cable to a giant switch somewhere.

After a week of researching, I've never seen anyone use these types of components to perform a disconnect (apart from the safety aspect of being latched ON), but I can't see any reason it won't work. My plan is to have a large disconnect relay perform the action of connect/disconnect on the ground side of the battery, but activated by a small remote switch and relay.

There are "known" brand name remote disconnect systems sold by race equipment suppliers that are $350+, but that got me thinking. Those things only use disconnect relay's, with preconfigured harnesses and control panels. The price is typically due to brand, and the inclusion of all the harnesses, switches and paneling that come with a kit. The relay alone with these systems are $150!

I've seen remote disconnect relay's in the HD trucking world that were high amperage but never broke the $50 range, so I don't know what is so special about those other relay's. One downside to those disconnect relay's you get in the kits is that they are all the time pull style relays, meaning they have to stay energized to perform a connect, which means they get hot and have a short life span.

I found a company called Intellitec that makes a disconnect relay for RV's and boats, and the relay is a latching style that stays CLOSED without the need for constant power, only an initial small application of current to perform the activation, along with another small amount of current to perform the disconnect.

Then I started thinking about activation/deactivation switch locations. I wanted it to be easy to access, but not physically sticking outside the car so that it was easy to mess with. You know that hole in my hatch liftgate where the lock cylinder used to be? That sort of just made it an easy decision lol. So here's what I bought:

136554



Some metal waterproof LED (red) indicator switches from ebay (2 just in case one breaks). These are latch style switches, so pressing them in keeps the switch ON, and the LED remains on, then pressing again to turn OFF.

This will be mounted in my tailgate lock cylinder hole, on the INSIDE, so it's not flush mounted with the tailgate exterior, you will need to put a finger inside the hole to reach the switch (giggity).

Then for identification of the switch, I purchased an SCCA/IMSA legal battery disconnect decal:

136555



The decal is 3" x 3/4", so it's not terribly large but big enough to notice. It will be mounted near the lock cylinder hole.

Then a random 5 pack of Bosch style 5 pin SPDT relays, since my relay supply is almost exhausted:

136556



As well as a latch style battery disconnect relay from Intellitec:

136558




This relay is listed as 100A continuous, and 500A max short term (30 seconds) rated, which is perfect for the starter needs of the civic (250A surge, 90A continuous) as well as the continual running of the car (~50A, alternator input as well as load drain).

The way this relay works is pretty cool, if anyone is interested, the part number is 01-00055-000.


So basically, the back of my car will end up looking like:

136561


Mind you, the switch won't look so obvious since it will be behind the initial hole, but at night you will be able to see the red LED glow of the power switch lol.

I'm also going to paint my rear steel tow hook red, after numerous complaints I've gotten at work saying how much the blue/purple color of it currently just looks way off. I'll probably take care of that tonight.
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
4,462 Posts
Id put the sticker above the button, since the triangle is pointing down. I also would have suggested (this big ass picture) for daily use. maybe drill a hole in the cowl where the red cover would sit slightly above flush. key it off and remove when parking, and leave the key on a bungee when racing.....

 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI
Joined
·
759 Posts
Discussion Starter #471
I'll probably cut the "OFF" text from the decal, so I can make the triangle fit in the space between the window and the hole, and keep it pointing towards the hole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I keep waiting for this registration slot to open, not sure if its COVID related or not... i really wanna go!
hopefully I don't have to work and I can head up for it. They just dropped the large group restrictions at work so as not to be offensive against people who want to protest. lol.

You gonna make some laps?
 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI
Joined
·
759 Posts
Discussion Starter #478
hopefully I don't have to work and I can head up for it. They just dropped the large group restrictions at work so as not to be offensive against people who want to protest. lol.

You gonna make some laps?
Wait, that's the reason they dropped the large group restrictions? Lmao.... im gonna protest for this race day, to drop large car meet restrictions haha.

Yeah man, I want to do HPDE with their group. I hope it opens up for registration!
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,053 Posts
Id put the sticker above the button, since the triangle is pointing down. I also would have suggested (this big ass picture) for daily use. maybe drill a hole in the cowl where the red cover would sit slightly above flush. key it off and remove when parking, and leave the key on a bungee when racing.....

I bought a Flaming River battery cutoff switch like this one to go on the wagon. Plan to mount it this summer so that its track legal. Battery is in the trunk, so I have a Moroso battery box and this type battery switch to make it tech legal. Drag strip and VIR
 
461 - 480 of 490 Posts
Top