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Formerly weebeastie
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The old DOHC ZC is making well over 300 with 11mm studs and a freakin Felpro graphite gasket. (yes I have blown one already, but that was because I fixed a boost leak and had some detonation issues which is what popped the gasket). A little copper spray and back at it I went. Wiseco pistons and CSS kept her alive. I think at the boost levels you're talking, as long as the timing is right and by right I mean conservative for most builds and you keep AFR in boost around 11.5-11.7 you're gonna be totally fine. I'm running max 18 psi on mine (pretty much where the old GT28RS is done), and so far, so good.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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I think if we really put some time in street tuning it as well, you're gonna be better off. It aint all about the peak horse pressures you know.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter #303
I think if we really put some time in street tuning it as well, you're gonna be better off. It aint all about the peak horse pressures you know.
Looking forward to getting a good street tune back on it when it's done, its gonna be a handful!

I'm also gonna take TCS back up on their offer to do a few pulls for free since my last session was cut early.
 

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Glad to see your still rollin with your project. When all this coronavirus stuff started, I decided to hold off on my D16 project. Well I just got word back from the machine shop that the head and cam were toast due to no oil. So looks like I need to tear into the blue car and send that head for machining. Guess I might as well get back to working on it a little until the kit arrives.
Stay safe!
 

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Discussion Starter #305
Glad to see your still rollin with your project. When all this coronavirus stuff started, I decided to hold off on my D16 project. Well I just got word back from the machine shop that the head and cam were toast due to no oil. So looks like I need to tear into the blue car and send that head for machining. Guess I might as well get back to working on it a little until the kit arrives.
Stay safe!
Thanks man! I can only imagine how busy you must be at work right now!

Sucks about that head, aren't you glad you have spares? Even though the wife probably isn't. Where you going with the trailer??! Haha.

When is the kit supposed to come in?

Hope you and the family are doing alright through all this!
 

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Discussion Starter #307
Got off the phone with Cometic today, responding to my email inquiry from last week. They say they cannot in any reasonable space of time or money retool the MLX process for the D Series engines. Zero demand (lol imagine that). So MLS here we come.

The tech rep definitely knew what he was talking about, and told me to avoid running the 0.018" gasket they offer for my engine application. I originally inquired about this via the email, and outright asked if there would be any mechanical sealing hindrance or pros/cons to running the 0.018" 2 layer gasket offering versus their 0.027 or 0.030" 3 layer gaskets. I noted to the guy that I was still hoping to salvage any compression ratio I could with the 0.018" 2 layer.

He said that the 2 layer is thin because it doesn't run a flat stainless spacer between the two embossed layers, and that the effective sealing capability between the two standalone embossed pieces squished together is much less effective when compared to a gasket that runs 3+ layers. The embossed layers don't end up having to depress as far when running a spacer, and they distort much less when squished, maintaining a larger seal around the combustion chamber versus the 2 layer. The outer embossed layers also have the common spacer medium on which to move along during heat cycling, which offers a place for the Viton on the embossed sides to bond against that is slightly less prone to large movements during brief periods of dramatic head and block temperature differences.

He sold me on the 3 layer 0.027" as the next best option :)

Cometic doesn't stock any gaskets, they are only setup for production and don't carry any overhead, with special exceptions for some important customers. Dealers and resellers purchase the gaskets in bulk, and the dealer houses the overhead instead, so he pointed me to a few reputable resellers that should have this gasket.

All places, eBay included, offered these gaskets but had fine print where you could visually see the Cometic 10 day manufacturing lead time. I didn't want to wait that long, so I called Real Street Performance, and they had a 75.5mm bore gasket at 0.027" compressed thickness in stock. I bought it, and it's on the way.

After that call, I was bored waiting on some results to come back from work, so I plugged in my numbers to the Zealworks calculator just to see if I was honestly still going to be in the 8's:1 range in terms of static compression.

The static compression ratio with the Vitara pistons and these custom length rods originally put me at 8.8:1 on Engine Build 1.

The static ratio now, with the pistons being much lower below the deck than the vitara's, coupled with the total shaved from block and head and longer rod, puts me roughly here:

136049




Still in the 8's baby! So it shouldn't be "too" terrible out of boost.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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8.5:1 will be fine, it'll be more forgiving if you get the timing off. Mine being upwards of nearly 10:1 (9.8ish), she's way less forgiving, and I have a few head gaskets to prove it....lol.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter #309
Took the block, head and girdle to the car wash (don't have a pressure washer).

Got the oil passages in the block and head cleaned out and chased with long plastic bristle brushes, pipe cleaners for the head, all aluminum shavings power washed out of the head from drilling head stud holes bigger.

Also took the main bearing girdle end caps off to remove any deposits at the ends of the passages and flush clean






When I got home, I dried and oiled everything, then finished cleaning and lapping the valves into the seats:










Should be ready to build the head and start on bottom end tomorrow. Still need to cut the ring end gaps (another f'n tedious task).

Head gasket will be here Thursday, and as of this Friday I will have 10 days off work (PTO). The car should be running by end of next week, pending any serious unforeseen circumstances.
 

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Thanks man! I can only imagine how busy you must be at work right now!

Sucks about that head, aren't you glad you have spares? Even though the wife probably isn't. Where you going with the trailer??! Haha.

When is the kit supposed to come in?

Hope you and the family are doing alright through all this!

We are actually less busy. I was one of the few who didn't get furlowed. We are only taking low risk patients with an urgent need. Stoke, cancer, broken bones, bleeds etc... Really stressful though.
The kit is 6-8 weeks build time if Greg is not under lockdown. I imagine with the corona stuff going, he might be seeing delays of his own.

Your making big progress and I bet you will be up and running again soon too. Can't wait to see your results.

Stay safe. Will let you know if that kit comes in.
 

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That's some nice build! And the compression is more than enough for out of boost driving without any problems but if you don't like it you can play with gear ratios and final drives to make the perfect transmission for in and out of boost driving. There is something from me and i hope it will help you and others, it saved me a lot of headaches finding and building the perfect transmission for me :)
 

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Discussion Starter #314 (Edited)
I didn't get a chance to work on head assembly tonight, because I stopped and asked myself if there was anymore custom stuff to do on this build anymore... forgot about the intake lol.

Went ahead and found a place to mount the IAT sensor, tried my best to get it as far down the entrance of runner #1 as possible. Before the newer mass air flow systems, Honda liked putting IAT in this spot on aluminum intakes since technically the air coming in gets to this runner last, and has the most time to heat soak compared to the others:










Intake fully assembled, ready to go on the engine:









 

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Discussion Starter #315 (Edited)
Had a chance to get back on engine assembly today. Super chill and easy going, no custom stuff, plain ol bottom end assembly. Enjoy:




Bore brushed and rinced the main girdle oil passages. Torqued end caps back to spec:










Cleaned crank journals and oil holes:








Put everything together dry for main plastigage:








Torqued mains to 40 ft/lbs with ARP lube on threads and bolt heads. Oil clearance between 0.0015 and 0.002 on every single one. Good enough for me :)














Torqued back to 40 ft/lbs after cleaning plastigage off and applying assembly lube to bearings. Reapplied a bit of ARP lube as well:



 

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Discussion Starter #316
Notes for specing piston to cylinder clearances, and determining ring gaps. Ring gaps will be set at 0.016" top ring, 0.017" second ring.




Vitara ring squaring tool:




Cutting rings, checking gaps, ringing pistons:










Ready for rod bearings:






Didn't get any good shots of the rod plastigage because it was so dark and hard to see, but all of them had between 0.0015" and 0.001" of oil clearance, perfect.

Clocking rings, lubing cylinders, and getting sketchy with the ol ring cracker (band style compressor). All slugs in, bearings lubed with assembly lube, rod bolts ARP lubed and torqued to 50 ft/lbs:

 
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