Honda D Series Forum banner

A passion that traveled across international boarders

46824 Views 1374 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  transzex
5
Honestly, I don't know where I should start. Maybe a little bit of background first!

I have been messing with honda's for years, almost 15 to be exact (since I got my license). Many of the honda's I have owned and help friends repair in my youngeryears were the starting point of knowing what line of work I wanted to be in.

I love cars (anything with an engine really), more specifically diagnosing really difficult drivability issues with them. Getting stuck on a problem really pushed me to learn more about things I was unfamiliar with. Through my diagnostic experiences as a vehicle technician, I have learned an incredible amount of internal combustion engine theory and operation including all of the additional systems that support their overall operation and the mechanics at work which ultimately couple the engine output to usable work at the wheels (the full circle if you will).

UNFORTUNATELY, like most people can probably attest, I'm not made of money, I don't have lots of money, I can't spend lots of money all the time (unless I want my wife and son to starve and have no home), I really had to think hard 5 times before spending $50 bucks without jeopardizing something of a higher importance, but that honestly never stopped me from continuing to pursue learning about so many really cool tips and tricks related to Honda's on the countless number of member driven community forums out there (the last year and a bit have been right here!).

I've tuned honda's, built engines/transmissions for honda's, done stupid/cool things with honda's, and most of the time it has always been with someone else's money. All I have ever been truly able to spend on things was time, and I took full advantage of a learning opportunity when it presented itself on someone else's dime.

I am at a stage in my life where money management is still a HUGE part of my responsibility for my overall family goals (as I am still not made from it), but over the past two years things have started to get, dare I say it, slightly "easier" (knock on wood) for me to have like an extra hundred bucks or so every month to put towards my hobbies and things I like to do.

Like most people here, working on their cars is therapeutic and stress relieving. Often times it can turn into downright addiction! I think I'm in the stress relieving group, as I spend time and money on my projects but it's not the end of the world if I have to not touch them for weeks/months at a time.

So without more boring self introductions, I wanted to share an ongoing project that started in Toronto, Ontario, Canada and ended up in North Carolina.


Here she is, the d-series honda platform that has continued to be my hobby that started 2 years ago: the 1999 Honda Civic SI (Canadian, EX in USA) with a low mileage D16Y8 installed by the owner who wanted to get it back on the road eventually (original engine blew up). He lost interest but had money to buy newer toys to pass the time. This car sat in the back of a truck shop for almost 2 years, and the owners of the place were threatening the owner to tow it away if he didn't move it. So I bought it for $200 bucks from him because the engine ran and it was at least worth that by itself, and had it towed to my house.

Attachments

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 4
261 - 280 of 1375 Posts
Based on D Serious's video as well as JVtec8k's response to Slo above, I just confirmed the ARP SRT4 headstud kit order, part # 141-4204.

The only things left are o-ringing and head gasket selection.

According to SCE's website, the depth of the o-ring groove that determines protrusion of the stainless o-ring is determined by the chosen head gasket thickness.

Thinner copper head gaskets require less protrusion of the oring above the deck surface, therefore the depth of the groove and oring wire diameter needs to be sized before cutting the groove, but after choosing the head gasket thickness.

I need to clay the rotating assembly first before choosing HG thickness, so this will be my next stage in the build before bringing the block to the speed shop for o-ring service. Chances are I will run the thinnest HG SCE offers for the D16 engines, 0.021", to maintain some level of compression ratio.

It's interesting that Jvtec8k decided to oring groove the head instead of the cylinders, especially with his nice GE sleeve job, perfect spot for oring grooves! The head is more likely to warp in comparison to the block when removing the stud clamping force to take things apart, which means the head is the most likely to get shaved back flat for service, meaning the oring groove would need to be re-machined each time to maintain depth. I guess I'm curious why he chose the head for o-ringing? Maybe it was just easier since the block was already in the car when his HG popped, and sending out the head was the least pain in groove!

In any case, holy shit less than a month and I should be back on the road! So excited!
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
ha omelet .fart sexy!

bend looks good !
Rob, I KNOW you'll appreciate this :)

If your ever bored, fancy a bit of dry English humor, and want to laugh your ass off to more funny Japanglish, check out some of Chris Broad's videos, on his Abroad in Japan youtube channel.

Here, I'll get you started:







You wont regret watching these. If your not a subscriber after watching these, shame on you lmao.

By far one of my favourite youtubers, I was very close to setting off on a journey in life similar to his with the JET (Japan English Teachers) program about 15 years ago!
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
and a tuning we will go..............


Conservative timing = fast, happy, and reliable........

Sure, you won't make all the horse pressures..........and you also stand a higher chance of not popping again. More smiles per gallon that way
  • Like
Reactions: 1
and a tuning we will go..............


Conservative timing = fast, happy, and reliable........

Sure, you won't make all the horse pressures..........and you also stand a higher chance of not popping again. More smiles per gallon that way
When I'm back up and running, do you want to seriously talk about paying JD a visit? I would be down :)
One reason I like the DOHC ZC is that they come stock with M11 head bolts.

B16 studs are M11, DOHC ZC are M11, SRT4 Neon studs are M11.
This is very interesting. I've not dabbled with anything ZC before. I dove in and found out that the SOHC ZC is still M10x1.25, whereas the DOHC version is indeed M11x1.5.

Also found out that ARP doesn't "officially" make kits for the ZC engines, but that aftermarket companies have pieced together their own ARP kits using bolts of appropriate lengths from other kits or direct from ARP.

I'm gonna roll with the SRT4 head studs since a few people have live representations of them operating well above 500whp :)
Oh no, Greg at Go-Autoworks has a kit directly from ARP for both versions of the DOHC ZC. One version has one longer stud, the other version, they are all the same length. He stocks both kits and they are directly from ARP.

*Note SRT4 studs = DOHC ZC even length studs
  • Like
Reactions: 4
6
Slight progress on the car while I wait on machine shop to finish (should be any day now :))

I received the TimeSert kit, as well as the SRT4 head stud kit:




SRT4 studs compared to the D16Y studs:




Xenocron sent me a replacement flex fuel sensor this morning, should be here on Thursday so I can continue bench testing the FF converter setup.


Finally went ahead and threw together some brake cooling duct tips. Been wanting to do this for a while, because the hoses I had pointing at the calipers previously rubbed against the tires at full lock, and the one on the driver side rubbed on the harmonic balancer when going full lock and engine running.

I just used some left over intercooler piping and pressed them into narrow channels that fit parallel with the front unibody frame rails. A quick prototype mockup:







See less See more
9
Final production (lol) pieces next to mock up:












With the shapes completed, added mounting brackets (passenger side):







See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
8
The driver side required some more thought, since I cut the freaking vent tube short by accident AND I needed to be able to clear the driver side torque mount. The passenger side clears its torque mount by sheer dumb luck, I didn't even think about it when doing the passenger side until I got to the driver side.

I had to lower the vent by an inch to get it to clear, and I didn't have any 1" flatstock so I had to cut two 1/2" pieces and weld them together to drop things an inch total:










Checking wheel clearances when lock-to-lock, driver side (it's tight on this side because of harmonic balancer considerations):






Passenger side:



See less See more
Final ******* windtunnel testing to see how they flow:

I like this!
Did you remember the old-skool little tufts of wool?
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I like this!
Did you remember the old-skool little tufts of wool?
Haha, not quite with wool. Some old paper towel strips :)
Bro!! You wasted paper towel strips during the overly massive Toilet paper and paper towel drought of 2020???? Its literally TPPocalypse around here..........

Nice!
  • Like
Reactions: 2
2
I did some more on the car, prelim stuff still, due to waiting on machine shop.

I called him to make sure he was still working through the virus haha.

Literally everyone around is shutdown in my area, its crazy. I talked with my grandma last night who lives back home in Canada, and they are getting hit just as hard with the shutdowns and curfews, etc. She was born in 1942 and said this was the first time anything like this has happened in her lifetime.

Geoff from Colt told me over the phone that my cam I sent him had unusual lobe wear that was not typical in his experience of the SOHC VTEC engines. He asked that I make sure to inspect the rocker arm pads that contact the lobes for signs of wear, and to replace any with damage before installing the cam for break in.

I got around to inspecting this yesterday, and sure enough, EVERY pad on each arm was wore out badly. The hardened exterior of the pad was scuffed down to softer metal. All arms needed to be replaced.

On one of my shelves, I have a Z6 head with good valvetrain. Started doing some research to see if the Z6 rockers would work in the Y8 head.

I was able to confirm that exhaust rocker arms between Z6 and Y8 have the same part numbers, but the intake and VTEC follower arm (packaged together) were different.

Z6:

Text Font Line Parallel Logo



Y8:

Text Font Line Parallel Number



Understanding that the intake part numbers were different, yet the exhaust arms were the same, I was super curious to compare the two intake rocker setups side by side to really see WHY they were different.
See less See more
Bro!! You wasted paper towel strips during the overly massive Toilet paper and paper towel drought of 2020???? Its literally TPPocalypse around here..........

Nice!
Lmao! Haha, I think people have lost a bit of common sense throughout all of this. Seriously, do people think that paper towel and toilet paper is going to defend them from the virus? If so, how?

Diarrhea and vomiting are like the only symptoms I could see you wanting those paper products, yet this virus has NONE of those symptoms, not even a runny nose!

Again, why the paper product shortage I ask myself? Lmao! This is definitely a once in a lifetime event to share with the grandkids :)
18
So I took the Z6 head apart, as well as the Y8 rocker assembly to compare the two side by side:








Exhaust rockers, yup they're the same:






Intake rocker assemblies "look" the same at first glance:








Intake rocker shaft journal hole diameters are the same:




Side by sides look pretty freaking similar:




Lobe pads to valve tappet center to center distances are the same:






Side by side on the same rocker shaft, they look identical:




Both overall pad heights on each arm are the same when viewed from a side profile:






Same with the VTEC lifter followers:






Spacers are the same width and inner/outer diameter:

See less See more
6
Everything was looking promising, until I ran into my first "gotcha".

I began to test install all the Z6 rocker arms as a full assembly on the Y8 rocker shaft, next to the pre-existing Y8 rocker arm assemblies, and found that the Z6 exhaust arms on the valve side sit higher in comparison to the Y8 exhaust arms:






I thought maybe shaving a tiny bit off of the end that can contact the spacer would help things, it did not:






I was unsure of what was going on at this point, since the exhaust rockers were the ones that were supposed to be the same. I changed pace, and began to look into whether or not this higher valve position/lower cam position limit was a bad thing. I put a cam cap back on the Z6 head to mark where the exhaust lobe max lift point was, it ended up being here:




Knowing this, I went ahead and staged the exhaust rocker arm pad in roughly the same spot, actually slightly higher than what I observed in order to be conservative in my mock up, next to the Y8 cam cap to see how much clearance I would have before hitting the spacer:




I ended up having plenty of room, almost a 1/4" before contact to the spacer. I don't exactly know why the rocker arm height in the above pictures appeared to be so much different when resting against the spacer, obviously there was some difference in build between the two exhaust rocker arms over the years, yet they shared the same part number in the end.

The VTEC rocker arms being the ones with different part numbers turned out to have plenty of clearance away from the rocker shafts. I honestly don't know why these rocker assemblies have different part numbers, maybe they upgraded some things on the Y8 versions? They both appear identical, even having oiling holes in all the right places. I went ahead and installed the complete Z6 rocker arm assemblies and components to the Y8 shafts.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
7
Also received the new flex fuel sensor from Xenocron today. Hooked it up to the bench test equipment, worked perfectly this time:












The 118hz frequency coincided +/- 1% against my original alcohol percentage calculation test using the water separation method. I feel I can trust this sensor's feedback when wired to the ECU:



Text Font Screenshot Technology Electronic device
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
nice wind tunnel ..

head studs look beefy, sure is tempting...
261 - 280 of 1375 Posts
Top