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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter #261
Based on D Serious's video as well as JVtec8k's response to Slo above, I just confirmed the ARP SRT4 headstud kit order, part # 141-4204.

The only things left are o-ringing and head gasket selection.

According to SCE's website, the depth of the o-ring groove that determines protrusion of the stainless o-ring is determined by the chosen head gasket thickness.

Thinner copper head gaskets require less protrusion of the oring above the deck surface, therefore the depth of the groove and oring wire diameter needs to be sized before cutting the groove, but after choosing the head gasket thickness.

I need to clay the rotating assembly first before choosing HG thickness, so this will be my next stage in the build before bringing the block to the speed shop for o-ring service. Chances are I will run the thinnest HG SCE offers for the D16 engines, 0.021", to maintain some level of compression ratio.

It's interesting that Jvtec8k decided to oring groove the head instead of the cylinders, especially with his nice GE sleeve job, perfect spot for oring grooves! The head is more likely to warp in comparison to the block when removing the stud clamping force to take things apart, which means the head is the most likely to get shaved back flat for service, meaning the oring groove would need to be re-machined each time to maintain depth. I guess I'm curious why he chose the head for o-ringing? Maybe it was just easier since the block was already in the car when his HG popped, and sending out the head was the least pain in groove!

In any case, holy shit less than a month and I should be back on the road! So excited!
 

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Discussion Starter #262
ha omelet .fart sexy!

bend looks good !
Rob, I KNOW you'll appreciate this :)

If your ever bored, fancy a bit of dry English humor, and want to laugh your ass off to more funny Japanglish, check out some of Chris Broad's videos, on his Abroad in Japan youtube channel.

Here, I'll get you started:







You wont regret watching these. If your not a subscriber after watching these, shame on you lmao.

By far one of my favourite youtubers, I was very close to setting off on a journey in life similar to his with the JET (Japan English Teachers) program about 15 years ago!
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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and a tuning we will go..............


Conservative timing = fast, happy, and reliable........

Sure, you won't make all the horse pressures..........and you also stand a higher chance of not popping again. More smiles per gallon that way
 

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Discussion Starter #264
and a tuning we will go..............


Conservative timing = fast, happy, and reliable........

Sure, you won't make all the horse pressures..........and you also stand a higher chance of not popping again. More smiles per gallon that way
When I'm back up and running, do you want to seriously talk about paying JD a visit? I would be down :)
 

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Discussion Starter #265
One reason I like the DOHC ZC is that they come stock with M11 head bolts.

B16 studs are M11, DOHC ZC are M11, SRT4 Neon studs are M11.
This is very interesting. I've not dabbled with anything ZC before. I dove in and found out that the SOHC ZC is still M10x1.25, whereas the DOHC version is indeed M11x1.5.

Also found out that ARP doesn't "officially" make kits for the ZC engines, but that aftermarket companies have pieced together their own ARP kits using bolts of appropriate lengths from other kits or direct from ARP.

I'm gonna roll with the SRT4 head studs since a few people have live representations of them operating well above 500whp :)
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Oh no, Greg at Go-Autoworks has a kit directly from ARP for both versions of the DOHC ZC. One version has one longer stud, the other version, they are all the same length. He stocks both kits and they are directly from ARP.

*Note SRT4 studs = DOHC ZC even length studs
 

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Discussion Starter #267
Slight progress on the car while I wait on machine shop to finish (should be any day now :))

I received the TimeSert kit, as well as the SRT4 head stud kit:




SRT4 studs compared to the D16Y studs:




Xenocron sent me a replacement flex fuel sensor this morning, should be here on Thursday so I can continue bench testing the FF converter setup.


Finally went ahead and threw together some brake cooling duct tips. Been wanting to do this for a while, because the hoses I had pointing at the calipers previously rubbed against the tires at full lock, and the one on the driver side rubbed on the harmonic balancer when going full lock and engine running.

I just used some left over intercooler piping and pressed them into narrow channels that fit parallel with the front unibody frame rails. A quick prototype mockup:







 

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Discussion Starter #269
The driver side required some more thought, since I cut the freaking vent tube short by accident AND I needed to be able to clear the driver side torque mount. The passenger side clears its torque mount by sheer dumb luck, I didn't even think about it when doing the passenger side until I got to the driver side.

I had to lower the vent by an inch to get it to clear, and I didn't have any 1" flatstock so I had to cut two 1/2" pieces and weld them together to drop things an inch total:










Checking wheel clearances when lock-to-lock, driver side (it's tight on this side because of harmonic balancer considerations):






Passenger side:



 

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Discussion Starter #275 (Edited)
I did some more on the car, prelim stuff still, due to waiting on machine shop.

I called him to make sure he was still working through the virus haha.

Literally everyone around is shutdown in my area, its crazy. I talked with my grandma last night who lives back home in Canada, and they are getting hit just as hard with the shutdowns and curfews, etc. She was born in 1942 and said this was the first time anything like this has happened in her lifetime.

Geoff from Colt told me over the phone that my cam I sent him had unusual lobe wear that was not typical in his experience of the SOHC VTEC engines. He asked that I make sure to inspect the rocker arm pads that contact the lobes for signs of wear, and to replace any with damage before installing the cam for break in.

I got around to inspecting this yesterday, and sure enough, EVERY pad on each arm was wore out badly. The hardened exterior of the pad was scuffed down to softer metal. All arms needed to be replaced.

On one of my shelves, I have a Z6 head with good valvetrain. Started doing some research to see if the Z6 rockers would work in the Y8 head.

I was able to confirm that exhaust rocker arms between Z6 and Y8 have the same part numbers, but the intake and VTEC follower arm (packaged together) were different.

Z6:

Screenshot_20200318-220455_Chrome.jpg



Y8:

Screenshot_20200318-220608_Chrome.jpg



Understanding that the intake part numbers were different, yet the exhaust arms were the same, I was super curious to compare the two intake rocker setups side by side to really see WHY they were different.
 

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Discussion Starter #276
Bro!! You wasted paper towel strips during the overly massive Toilet paper and paper towel drought of 2020???? Its literally TPPocalypse around here..........

Nice!
Lmao! Haha, I think people have lost a bit of common sense throughout all of this. Seriously, do people think that paper towel and toilet paper is going to defend them from the virus? If so, how?

Diarrhea and vomiting are like the only symptoms I could see you wanting those paper products, yet this virus has NONE of those symptoms, not even a runny nose!

Again, why the paper product shortage I ask myself? Lmao! This is definitely a once in a lifetime event to share with the grandkids :)
 

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Discussion Starter #277
So I took the Z6 head apart, as well as the Y8 rocker assembly to compare the two side by side:








Exhaust rockers, yup they're the same:






Intake rocker assemblies "look" the same at first glance:








Intake rocker shaft journal hole diameters are the same:




Side by sides look pretty freaking similar:




Lobe pads to valve tappet center to center distances are the same:






Side by side on the same rocker shaft, they look identical:




Both overall pad heights on each arm are the same when viewed from a side profile:






Same with the VTEC lifter followers:






Spacers are the same width and inner/outer diameter:

 

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Discussion Starter #278
Everything was looking promising, until I ran into my first "gotcha".

I began to test install all the Z6 rocker arms as a full assembly on the Y8 rocker shaft, next to the pre-existing Y8 rocker arm assemblies, and found that the Z6 exhaust arms on the valve side sit higher in comparison to the Y8 exhaust arms:






I thought maybe shaving a tiny bit off of the end that can contact the spacer would help things, it did not:






I was unsure of what was going on at this point, since the exhaust rockers were the ones that were supposed to be the same. I changed pace, and began to look into whether or not this higher valve position/lower cam position limit was a bad thing. I put a cam cap back on the Z6 head to mark where the exhaust lobe max lift point was, it ended up being here:




Knowing this, I went ahead and staged the exhaust rocker arm pad in roughly the same spot, actually slightly higher than what I observed in order to be conservative in my mock up, next to the Y8 cam cap to see how much clearance I would have before hitting the spacer:




I ended up having plenty of room, almost a 1/4" before contact to the spacer. I don't exactly know why the rocker arm height in the above pictures appeared to be so much different when resting against the spacer, obviously there was some difference in build between the two exhaust rocker arms over the years, yet they shared the same part number in the end.

The VTEC rocker arms being the ones with different part numbers turned out to have plenty of clearance away from the rocker shafts. I honestly don't know why these rocker assemblies have different part numbers, maybe they upgraded some things on the Y8 versions? They both appear identical, even having oiling holes in all the right places. I went ahead and installed the complete Z6 rocker arm assemblies and components to the Y8 shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #279
Also received the new flex fuel sensor from Xenocron today. Hooked it up to the bench test equipment, worked perfectly this time:












The 118hz frequency coincided +/- 1% against my original alcohol percentage calculation test using the water separation method. I feel I can trust this sensor's feedback when wired to the ECU:



20200320_010614.jpg
 
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