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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter #181
I was not planning on buying this, but I started thinking about the cam being sent to Colt and the fact that I'll have almost $500 tied up in that freaking thing after shipping, then the fact that my head and block have already been shaved once and will be shaved again in the near future, that it would be silly if I didn't have some way to adjust the cam back into time and properly degree it during reassembly.

I ended up buying a golden eagle adjustable timing gear. Looks like a solid unit, the drive hub is one solid piece of aluminum and the only aluminum actually cut out of it are the sliding slots.

All other cam gears I looked at had holes or designs cut into the drive hub which makes it weaker overall, the only one that did not was the golden eagle. Even the fasteners that come with the golden eagle for the adjustment slot are very high quality grade 10 12-point bolts. I think it will work great and allow me to set this thing at true 0 position after degreeing. I've already got my degree wheel ready to go :)
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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GE is definitely the way to go
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter #183
Good news! I get to finally pick my block up from the machine shop tomorrow! Last time I tell a machine shop to take their time lol.

Other parts have started to trickle in as well. Pics of what has come in so far:


Ring cutter. I've wanted one of these for a while, until I saw robgoof's solution literally a day after I bought this damn thing, see it here. I honestly like his solution better than this thing.




Walbro 450 and hardware.




Golden Eagle cam gear. I am disappointed that this isn't the solid aluminum hub design like was advertised in the sale, but the build quality of this gear is really damn good regardless. I LOVE the fact that the increments use a vernier indicator style instead of tiny ass little lines, very cool icing on the cake! Also didn't realize these don't come with a woodruff key in the packaging. Since the Y8 cam gear has the key made part of the drive hub, looks like I gotta go to the hardware store and raid the key box.




Continental Flex Fuel sensor.




K Tuner Flex Fuel sensor signal converter.




FIC 1000cc's

Came in a cool little box. Is this so you have a place to put the injectors to resend them to FIC for cleaning if necessary?









Injector Data Sheets:



 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter #184 (Edited)
Picked up the block today from machine shop! The inserts are awesome, very well done.

He couldn't get the original inserts he was telling me about, since he was unable to source the 1.25 pitch versions from the place overseas due to backorder. He showed me the original order request made back in November, but still didn't have availability by end of December, so he ordered EZ-Loks instead since they were roughly the same tolerance thread cuts and that he trusted them with head studs.

He only charged 50 to put in 3 of them, and told me that he managed to buy enough of them to do the whole block if I wanted to do that. Originally I wanted to do this to the whole block, but I shyed away from it because he said it might cost quite a bit to do in labor (using the original requested inserts)

When I picked it up, he said that the 3 inserts installed so simply and straightforward with no major problems that it didn't take him long at all, and so he'd be willing to knock the rest of them out when I bring it back to cut the bores, hone and deck the block.

Pics of the insert job tomorrow. These were the inserts used: EZ-Lok Stainless M10x1.25 inside threads

 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter #185
Block pics:







Looks like I will need to play with the heights of the inserts down in the bores to get them to engage the head studs the way I want, since it looks like they aren't all even in the holes.

Will need to put a stud down in there and see how threads engage and where the stud stops, then adjust with a screwdriver as needed.
 

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Civic turbo Hx/Ex
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This is an amazing thread. Thanks for sharing and all the time and dedication you put into this Civic.
 

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Discussion Starter #188
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Right you are James Franco! Right you are! Especially in this fucking case...

I will keep this short and sweet.

Those nice new inserts installed into the block? Would have been great if they were the right LENGTH and installed by a COMPETENT individual!

Long story short, my block got seriously fucked by the machinist I brought it to.

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The problems began to arise as I purposely removed an insert to inspect the work.

The "nice and solid" fit I claimed these inserts of having? Supported by the most blue loctite is the loosest cut threads I've ever seen. After cleaning all the loctite out of the hole, most of which was still wet, I reinstalled the insert. The insert was only engaging 1/2 of the threads cut into the block! The damn thing wiggled like a motherfucker down in the hole!

He also told me he installed the 1" inserts, but when I looked down in the hole when I got it home, on the stand and the loctite cleaned out from the holes, I could immediately tell those were not 1" long. They were half inch! That meant that only 1/3rd of my headstud would be engaged to the insert, where the loose insert was only grabbing on to 1/2 of the available threads (probably due to a wrong size of hole drilled into the block) and snugged down by copious amounts of loctite?

At NO TIME during my inspection of this insert install job, did that little voice pop up in the back of my head that said "Eh, it'll be all right, just fucking roll with it!". If that voice doesn't pop up in my head, there is something seriously wrong. I usually try to convince myself reasons why something will work instead of why it will fail, but not this time. I couldn't look myself in the eye and speak any truth about how it could work. It was JUST FUCKED, no if's, and's or butts about it:

noifs.png
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Discussion Starter #189
So, on my lunch break last week I headed out to the junkyard and yanked a new (ish) block.

I will have to renotch it and test the threads on this one to make sure they will take the forces of torquing the headstuds. I want to confirm this block will be OK, before it gets sent to CSS to have a $400 procedure done that can't be transferred to a new block afterwards if these threads fuck up... good thing I have a 30 day warranty to test with!

Pics coming of the testing and teardown of this new block, sorry for the 2 week hiatus on updating this post. I had to take a week to come to terms that my old block was fucked, and I lost $53 dollars and time I'll never get back. In hindsight, I wish I would have just bought another block 3 months ago...
 

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Discussion Starter #191
Tore down the new block and inspected things.

Other than the upper cylinder rust from it sitting in a junkyard, this other Y8 block has a good oil pan, oil pump, crankshaft. Will keep these off to the side as spares if needed.





I METICULOUSLY inspected the head bolt threads for any stripping, galling, missing threads etc. to make sure this block is a good CSS candidate. I do NOT want to send the block for CSS, then pull block threads. Will be seriously pissed off if this happens.

After a thorough cleaning and chasing, all studs threaded in properly by hand. I cleaned and prepped my old studs with ARP ultratorque on the block side stud threads to test block threads under load by torquing the head down to the block using an old head gasket.

I happened across this article that helps to explain a phenomenon that can cause an overtorque situation during head stud torquing resulting in pulled block threads, especially on aluminum blocks.


The theory is sound, and I've actually seen this design everywhere on most washers of head bolts from many factory engines out there. Basically you don't want the washer to turn while torquing the stud nut, and there is a reason.

I'm sure all who have torqued head bolts/studs down know what I'm talking about. When you begin to get up into the higher torque wrench application ranges, and your pressing/pulling on your torque wrench, right when you think it's about to click it's almost like the fastener just loosened up and all of a sudden the torque wrench turns easier. One of two thing happened, either you pulled threads or the washer spun between the washer and the head, causing the rotation resistance between the nut, washer and head to drop for a moment. This actually skews the intended pull against the block threads, and can cause you to overtorque the threads in the block. Remember, torque wrenches don't tell you how hard a stud is pulling against the threads (pounds per square inch), only that a force required to turn a fastener reached a set level (pounds per foot).

By roughing or staking the washer surface between the washer and the head, you can prevent it from turning. You really only want the surface between the nut and the washer to be the one that is slipping, once the other side slips now you have momentarily reduced rotational friction. This can cause an immediate stud overpull condition if your not careful, and where a torque wrench fails to be able to tell you exactly how hard you are pulling against the threads. The threads in the block are being pulled evenly in the same way, but because the nut now turns easier when the washer slips, your torque wrench will allow you to keep going until the friction between the nut, washer and head achieve the required friction to cause the torque wrench to click.

This is why the washers and head mating surface should be clean and dry, and not lubed. The article recommends running one side of the washer across a piece of sand paper to rough up the one side so it grips the head aluminum.

So after cleaning and drying the washer mating points on the head, cleaning/drying the washers, nuts and studs, I roughed each washer up across a piece of 220 grit sandpaper.

After installing the head studs to the block with ARP ultratorque lube, putting down a used head gasket, installed head dowels and putting the head on the block, I plopped the washers down into the head recess areas, and only applied ARP ultratorque to the bottom face and threads of the nuts.











Torquing them down in 3 stages to 62 foot/pounds went off multiple times without a hitch.
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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interesting find about the head stud tightening .

That little slip feeling always pissed me off when it happens ,in my mind I could picture the block threads getting ripped on pretty bad...will have to try it rough washer next time , ..
 

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Discussion Starter #193
I've been itching to update this post, and work on the car in general, but I've been waiting on my carbide burr bits to come in.

Fucking FedEx Smartpost, the union that occurs between fedex and USPS takes FOREVER (been almost 2 weeks). It finally started moving as shown by tracking number, and updated ETA is Tuesday.

I want to notch this new block before I send it to CSS in case I F it up somehow (unlikely to f up notching, but still). I'd rather f up a stock block and get another one instead of going CSS then messing it up and never getting that 400 bucks back.

Will update with new progress soon!
 

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What an awesome build thread!! I should have been asleep hours ago. Keep at it! I learned so much my head hurts. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #195
What an awesome build thread!! I should have been asleep hours ago. Keep at it! I learned so much my head hurts. thanks
Dude! It's you! Lmao sorry it's been forever since I last reached out, I know I keep saying someday we'll meet up and talk cars, but fucking life keeps getting in the way and cars keep breaking lol.

This thing will be on the road soon, and we'll meet up haha.

You done anything to your cars lately?
 

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Discussion Starter #196 (Edited)
An update!

Got the carbides in, and notched this block.










Need to take it to a carwash, soap and power wash it. Shes dirty!

Once its washed, and I verify that the rotating assembly will clear the notches properly, it's going in a box and heading up to CSS! Hopefully will have this thing sent out Friday to New Hampshire.

Another stupid but interesting side note:

I tried to get my truck inspected today, and it looks like my guy who did my inspections for 3 years or so has left my normal go to shop, and the new inspector is a freaking savage telling me my truck has an exhaust leak, when it's literally how my truck sounds with its Y Pipe, a 28" cherry bomb glass pack and a downspout that empty's under the cab. Like, at least point out that my truck doesn't have a catalytic converter, THAT I would have agreed with, but an exhaust leak??!! Every car has an exhaust leak, most leak out the tailpipe like mine does!!

Anyways, this was actually a bit of motivation for me, since I've been putting off finishing my truck exhaust for years, since I've always passed inspection up until this point. The inspector told me to bring it to a muffler shop..... I wanted to slap this guy lol.

Some see repair bills, I see new shop equipment!

In this case, since I can't afford to have other people work on my stuff, I can buy the raw materials and most tools for about half of what a shop would typically charge.

I dont have a tubing bender, and I didn't want to buy a bunch of 90's and 45's from the auto parts store to put bends in my new exhaust, so I bought a straight 10 foot length of 2.5" steel exhaust pipe and a new horizontal band saw from harbor freight (princess auto to any canadians out there lol).

It took me 6 HOURS to adjust this saw to cut straight, and it totally destroyed the blade that came with it during alignment cuts through some stainless and aluminum piping.

Bought a better blade, went with a Starrett this time around, cuts EVERYTHING like butter. This saw just like anything from harbor freight, if you take it home, take everything apart and reassemble it with the knowledge that some chinese 7 year old might have forgotten to tighten a critical fastener, their tools are actually pretty decent for non industrial settings. I'm pretty impressed with this band saw after getting it straight:






The best I could get the alignment on this saw without driving myself crazy because the blade guide wheel jigs are fucking terrible build quality, was 0.1mm top to bottom deviation. Aluminum on left, stainless on right, using the Starrett blade:



The cuts are actually much straighter in real life than what it looks like in this picture.
 

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Dude! It's you! Lmao sorry it's been forever since I last reached out, I know I keep saying someday we'll meet up and talk cars, but fucking life keeps getting in the way and cars keep breaking lol.

This thing will be on the road soon, and we'll meet up haha.

You done anything to your cars lately?

Well, it always seems rain on my days off and I have to work in the driveway. I do have a building with space for motor assembly. I dropped my block, crank and head off for machining last week. Going with 75.5 bore, but still haven't figured out which pistons and rods. Shooting for 9.5 to 9.8 compression ratio. Gonna send ya a PM.
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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stupid inspecting dweebs ,fine if you can find your guy ..
haha tells you to go to midas ,
so what pie exhaust?
you worked that saw over eh! was on the princess auto page yesterday ,fuck is shipping stupid...
 

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Discussion Starter #200
Got the truck exhaust done lol. Just MIG'd the pie cuts since this is just galvo mild steel, nothing terribly special:












Thay Starrett blade was worth every penny (25 bucks), cuts everything like butter!
 
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