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· Formerly weebeastie
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So I have no idea how I've missed this post, but first off, you won't regret going with the CSS process. I had it done to the DOHC ZC (built with GT28RS turbo) I run in my Wagovan. Such cheap insurance!

Second. Holy cow man, I'm from Burlington. Keyed in when you said TCS, and I'm familiar.

Perserverance is the key and it looks like you've got it. I've been down this road before. Especially tuning my own, and learning a few hard lessons with head gaskets, and a lost block. Keep at it. Mine had to sit for a year once because I didn't have funds to put it back together.
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Fantastic! So they didn't use timeserts?

The CSS definitely helped mine. It still won't like any amount of detonation but instead of cracking a sleeve or blowing the rods out, it'll likely just blow the head gasket. Should help with lift as well, at least a bit because there is a greater mating surface area. Such cheap insurance, especially for a D series block. What are your goals once its back together? Just a street fighter or taking it to Piedmont/Rockingham, or want to take it around VIR?
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Joseph Davis = JD. Probably the best D series tuner on the East Coast. Sounds like a plan man. I'm planning to have mine ready to run some charity laps at VIR soon. What suspension did you go with?
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Nope, I hit the whole thing and forgot I saw K-tuned coilovers. I read through it late last night, so I'm sure I got a little foggy through there. The dyno he uses is in Traveler's Rest, SC, but he might be willing to come here if he tuned both our cars lol. I have access to a dyno in Burlington. Maybe its something to look into. He prefers using ECTune, but I know he can use most any Honda tuning software. Told me he'd kick my tail if I asked him to tune it obd0 with Tuner Express lol.
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Yes, but we have to pay to use it. I get a decent deal by the hour. And if anything explodes, we clean it up, and still have to pay for the time.
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
I like #9

As for the camshaft, have you ever looked at Colt Cams? Specifically the TriFlow design? Worth giving a look at.
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Yup, I have one of those regulators as well. Took me a minute to realize it as well. Then I turned the fuel pressure back down to "near" stock and it all planed out. So far so good.

Where did you set your fuel pressure?
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Previously with a stock regulator it was at 55-56 lbs, so I got a 1:1 FPR, set it to 45 psi, retuned and its hitting low to mid 60's under full boost. It eats a lot of fuel under power. Killed my mpg's lol. I have to stay out of boost on the weeks I'm broke. I mix in a gallon of 110 with 93 pump also because it sits sometimes and the 110 helps it not go dead.
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Did you know that HTS (Honda Tuning Suite which is basically a free based and updated ECTune) now offers full flex fuel control with a controller. Just saying, its an option as well.

And yes, finding E85 in this area can be extremely difficult.
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Which weld pro welder do you have? Is that what you used to build the stand? Sure its' ghetto, but as long as it works, who cares. Agreed on the Eth content as well around here. I'd have a hard time trusting it without the flex fuel sensor. HTS is making them fairly cheap and they are proprietary. Anyway, they seem to have a good setup for flex fuel.

Maybe one day, if I up to the G25 turbo, then I'll switch to E85. Will fuel economy go down like most alcohol cars do?
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Fantastic updates. Sounds like Jeff and Geoff took care or you! What made you choose the K tuned shifter over the Hybrid Racing? I've been looking at both for a while. There's definitely a price difference, just wondering if there is much of a functionality difference. I've watched several reviews of the two and some say the Hybrid shifter is better, but idk if its a hundo better. Thoughts
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Well, I'm actually thinking about getting different rims at this point. One has, what I think, a hair line crack in it and is losing air pressure. Probably loses 5 or so lbs a week. Its annoying, and I don't want it to give under pressure when I've rolled out hard in 3rd or 4th gear. Looking at alternatives now. Had some vacuum leaks I had to get fixed, haven't driven it since fixing those. Vacuum line to the FPR had a pin hole in it, so when I hit full boost 18psi, the pin hole because a bubbled vacuum leak and it ran lean (not awful, but scary enough). New vacuum lines throughout, problem solved.
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Shifter looks pretty :) Maybe I'll still hold out for the Hybrid Racing part. Maybe it doesn't require all the modification?
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Something I've found that a lot of tuners do with the D series is they try to tune it like other imports or even like a B series, and it just doesn't work so well when it comes to the timing map. More boost and less timing (at least more conservative timing than larger displacement/cylinder bore 4 cylinders) is likely the safer way to get the power level that you want. You also have the supporting mods like the cam, etc. to help you get there. One reason I like the DOHC ZC is that they come stock with M11 head bolts. But still, I've had to replace a gasket. Last year, fixed a boost leak that had been there since day one and I didn't know it. Second tuning hit, it popped a gasket.

B16 studs are M11, DOHC ZC are M11, SRT4 Neon studs are M11.
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
and a tuning we will go..............


Conservative timing = fast, happy, and reliable........

Sure, you won't make all the horse pressures..........and you also stand a higher chance of not popping again. More smiles per gallon that way
 

· Formerly weebeastie
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2,084 Posts
Oh no, Greg at Go-Autoworks has a kit directly from ARP for both versions of the DOHC ZC. One version has one longer stud, the other version, they are all the same length. He stocks both kits and they are directly from ARP.

*Note SRT4 studs = DOHC ZC even length studs
 
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