Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
96 honda civic Y8
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First off I know its somewhat normal for turbo cars to backfire a little bit however when I am at WOT my car is now backfiring EVERY TIME I SHIFT!

Is this something to be concerned about? I read this can be a symptom of the car running lean which is very possible considering I have no gauges hooked up and I have no idea how the chipped ECU is tuned.

Please give me some insight this is my first turbo car I have owned and I prefer not to blow it up if i can help it lol.

I do still need a BOV and I need to get the car tuned very badly and I realize that these things are very important.

I just want to make sure its not do to a larger issue I can not see or whatever due to the fact of not having the thing tuned and gauges and so forth.

I guess my point behind the thread is this:

Can something else be causing this to happen besides not knowing how the ECU is tuned?

P.S. I posted this in the noob section but no one is really acknowledging my actual question so I thought I would have more success here. We will see.
 

·
Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
Joined
·
1,312 Posts
i cant really tell you if yours is safe or not but i got my d16y5 dyno tuned and made 166hp, after the dyno my car always backfired between shifts and sometimes after decel but i never had issues in 2 years of owning the car turboed
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
4,107 Posts
are you sure its backfiring and not the wastegate opening to bleed off the exhaust when you close the throttle. you know, like its supposed to do?

also, best way to grenade a motor is to start doing wot pulls with an unknown tune with unknown afrs, boost, timing, injectors, ect ect.

park the car until youre ready to buy proper gauges and a proper tune.




I just told you, could be fuel cut or ignition cut IN THE TUNE.
 

·
Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
Joined
·
1,312 Posts
are you sure its backfiring and not the wastegate opening to bleed off the exhaust when you close the throttle. you know, like its supposed to do?
i dont believe wastegates open when you lift off the throttle, or at least they are not normally connected to vacuum which i think would cause it to open when you let off. slo are you confusing a bov with a wastegate?
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
4,107 Posts
i dont believe wastegates open when you lift off the throttle, or at least they are not normally connected to vacuum which i think would cause it to open when you let off. slo are you confusing a bov with a wastegate?
sounds like it. in my mind, I know what Im saying, typing it out just didn't come out right. bov bleeds boost, wastegate bleeds exhaust. potato tomato.

but before op gets uppity and makes another thread asking again, you think it could be fuel cut/boost cut/ignition.

hes flying blind, but logic wont allow him to stop beating on it till he has proper tuning and ability to see what the car is saying.
 

·
Registered
96 honda civic Y8
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well that at least gives me a little more ease since you shared that blue.

I haven't been driving the car every night but when I have free time it is very hard not to take it out.

It's a lot of fun to drive even with it not tuned ect...

By the way I hope I make alot more than 166whp. My goal is to be somewhere between 250-270whp on stock internals if the motor can handle it. I'm ganna push the motor I just don't want to break it from having a faulty tune or something just plain stupid.

I have a boost gauge and AFR gauge but thats all I got right now. I plan on buying a wideband UEGO 4.9 sensor/gauge later on but right now my main focus is this:

1). Buy at least 1 brand new tire front right because tread/metal/rubber/wire is missing from it

2). Buy a BOV something decent that releases fast and doesn't leak.

3). Get all the hoses tighten up, especially the oil return line its causing some blow by.

4). Hook up the Viper Alarm System I bought which retails at $600 and I got for $150 used and comes with remote start.

5). Get the car tuned with the already chipped ECU that I have.

6). Start buying engine internals all forged ect.... for my 350whp build

After all that is done I will be happy I just hope to keep the car together in the mean time.

Also on a side note I am still having issues with rough idle and fuel cut seems to be at cruising speeds and idle ect... It's idling around 1500-2000 rpms which I know isn't normal. I have checked the idler and thats not the issue...

any ideas on this?
 

·
Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
Joined
·
1,312 Posts
My goal is to be somewhere between 250-270whp on stock internals if the motor can handle it. I'm ganna push the motor I just don't want to break it from having a faulty tune or something just plain stupid.
well a crappy tune is usually how you blow the motor up whether its stock internals or not, i have seen a few 300hp stock block builds but 250-70 is probably max i would ever try. the 166/149 i made was on my d16y5, im now running a d16y8 in a different car and made 222whp 177tq on a different dyno with a different tuner also.
 

·
Registered
96 honda civic Y8
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Those are not bad numbers at all thats like double the horsepower the car comes with. thats nice!

Out of curiosity how come you didn't push for more power? like at least for 250?
 

·
Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
Joined
·
1,312 Posts
i really just wanted it to be close to the number everyone says is good which is 220, some say 250 is good to but im glad i didnt push for more as the last tuner i had tune my car did a shit job. car is my dd and i dont want it to blow up when im 500 miles away from home
 

·
Never finishes (TWSS)
91 Civic SI hb
Joined
·
1,880 Posts
I didnt know d16y8 made turbos. i thought it was an engine build by honda for obd2 civics. not a turbo manufacture...... or are you having problems with your turboed d16y8 motor?
 

·
Registered
94 Integra
Joined
·
1,225 Posts
and I need to get the car tuned very badly and I realize that these things are very important.
That's like saying you should feed your newborn child sometime this week, cause you know it's important. Chances are your awesome basemap is completely off (98% of them invariably are) & rich as fuck, so when you let off it's still dumping a shitload of fuel. That burns so slowly or partially misfires, then ends up burning as it enters the exhaust for a backfire. It's also incredibly hard on your turbo, far harder than not having a BOV.



and AFR gauge but thats all I got right now. I plan on buying a wideband UEGO 4.9 sensor/gauge later on but right now my main focus is this:

1). Buy at least 1 brand new tire front right because tread/metal/rubber/wire is missing from it

2). Buy at least 1 brand new tire front right because tread/metal/rubber/wire is missing from it

3). Buy at least 1 brand new tire front right because tread/metal/rubber/wire is missing from it

4) fix the idle issue

5) GET A FUCKING TUNE!

6). Get all the hoses tighten up, especially the oil return line its causing some blow by.

7) Get a wideband

8). Hook up the Viper Alarm System I bought which retails at $600 and I got for $150 used and comes with remote start.

9). Buy a BOV something decent that releases fast and doesn't leak.

10). Start buying engine internals all forged ect.... for my 350whp build

After all that is done I will be happy I just hope to keep the car together in the mean time.

Also on a side note I am still having issues with rough idle and fuel cut seems to be at cruising speeds and idle ect... It's idling around 1500-2000 rpms which I know isn't normal. I have checked the idler and thats not the issue...

any ideas on this?
I re-ordered your checklist. First off you shouldn't be driving a boosted car on cords, jesus christ man. Second, a BOV is far less important in the short term than the vast majority of that list. That's like spending all your money on a baby's diapers but letting it die from malnutrition. As far as your AFR's go, that's less important than a tune UNLESS you drag your feet & don't get it tuned ASAP. That AFR gauge will do jack for you if it's still reading the original narrowband, as it only has an effective range of 13.7-15.7:1.

The idle issue is probably the same thing that causes 99% of other Honda idle issues - a horrible vac leak. If you plug the IACV & FITV holes in the t-body and it idles above 700 RPM, you have a leak. If you can't find it yourself, get it to an experienced Honda mechanic & they'll find it in a minute.
 

·
Registered
96 honda civic Y8
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok you have made your point. I called central florida tuning and they said they would tune my car on the dyno for $350.00. He also said I should get a set of 550cc injectors.

I ganna try to go on thursday and take it down there. I live 3 hours away though. But I heard they are the best in florida
 

·
Registered
ej8
Joined
·
6,365 Posts
Ok you have made your point. I called central florida tuning and they said they would tune my car on the dyno for $350.00. He also said I should get a set of 550cc injectors.

I ganna try to go on thursday and take it down there. I live 3 hours away though. But I heard they are the best in florida
Yes, please tune your car asap.
Also a bov is nice to have on a DD car.
Till then try not to drive the car as much and really dont get on it at all.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top