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Discussion Starter #1
95 LX. Had my system recharged, later that day I had a R-134 blow out, know idea where the leak is. I thought the compressor was cycling on and off because the air temp changed so much on a hot day. I checked the low side pressure while the A/C was running, and the pressure went from 40 to 140 with the compressor running. Is my compressor shot, where can I find a cheap replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Sorry I don't have my manifold gauge anymore, I just remember the high side being around 220 running, 140 when the system was off.

I noticed that the clutch doesn't appear to be engaging anymore. When I press the AC button on the dash the engine bogs down like the compressor is running but the front of the compressor does not move, when I jumper the low pressure switch the engine bogs down but still no rotation. Why is the engine reacting like the compressor is running, but it's not. I am going to go through the HELMS flowchart tomorrow and test the relays. I'm thinking of doing an overhaul, new compressor, drier and expansion valve.

I added dye when it was recharged and only found leaks in the low pressure service schrader valve and the inside the electrical connector on top of the pressure switch
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All fuses and relays are fine. Pressure switch is fine.

Had the system evacuated and recharged today, at the shop A/C was ice cold, on the way home I could tell the compressor wasn't running.

When I got home I checked for leaks, none. I noticed that the compressor was acting strange. When the system called for A/C the engine reacted like the comprssor was running. I could tell the coil was working because the armature plate moved in, but never began to spin!! If I tapped the plate with a screwdriver the plate engaged and A/C blew out cold air.

When I inspected the compressor (coil and clutch). The coil resistance was 3.8 ohms, outside the 2.8 ohm specs and it was receiving 12V, also the clearance between the rotor pulley and the armature plate was 0.036 in also outside the 0.014-0.026 in specs.

Is the coil bad or a clearance issue and I need a remove a shim to reduce the clearance? Maybe I will just replace the whole clutch assembly for $90?
 

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1991 Honda Civic SI
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High pressure switch is ok? Can you turn the clutch by hand.

Check the High pressure switch most the time that is what goes bad if you can still turn the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
High pressure switch is ok? Can you turn the clutch by hand.

Check the High pressure switch most the time that is what goes bad if you can still turn the clutch.
The pressure switch is a dual pressure switch right? I jumpered the connector and the compressor engages, sometimes tries to engage and requires a bump with a screw driver. Also there is continuity across the switch. Is there any more test I should run on the switch?
 
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