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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know that most people use a restrictor to keep the oil blowing by and creating an oil screen or from plugging up the inside of your intercooler. This happens for more then one reason and the cheap fix is to use a restrictor which greatly reduces the oil pressure and volume moving through the turbo (but does not 100% fix oil from blowing by). This fixes one problem but can create new problems that will greatly hurt long term durability. It kills the amount of oil that flowes through the turbo which cools the bearings (the oil is what cools on a dry bearing housing which 90% of the eGay turdblos are). Basically you are cutting the life force off from the turbo.

What happens is that oil breaks down at certain temperatures or cokes and then it turns to gummy sbstance that is a pain in the ass to clean out. Then it sticks to parts, throws the turbo off balance and sooner then later kills the turbo. If you are a cheap ass to buy an eGay in the first place then most likely you will run the bitch till its dead and replace with another eGay turdblo.

It is essential to an oil cooled turbo to have the proper amount of oil flow to keep the bearings cool so they do not distort from heat and wear as well as keeping the oil from coking and scrapping the POS anyway. Realize the oil clearance on a new turbo is .0010" (used turbo varies but the standard is .0015" ID and OD is .0035"; which both is still thinner than a sheet of paper. I bore the bearings at anything over .0020"). The average piece of paper is 4 times the thickness of .0010 to give you an idea. Imagine the parts expanding from extensive heat and what that does to the parts that in some cases are turning in excess of 150,000 RPMs.

What to do to fix this is simple and will help keep the oil flow where it should be which will improve the turbo life and keep coked up particles from flowing through your motors bearings as well which I should not have to tell you what they will do to your car.

Simply break the eGay turdblo down when you buy one and replace the shitastic oil spring seals with stagger gap seals. They are a little more expensive but will give your turbo longer life. If it were me I would go ahead and replace the bearings with quality bits, clean the sand from the shitastic casting process out (think of your motor bearings and what sand will do to them!!!!), and also have the turbine assembly completely balanced. I hate to say this but if you will do these simple things the turbo will last just as long as any name brand turbo on the market. Total cost for this process runs around $100 for the DIY'r to $225 if you have someone else do it.

You can also do this to used turbos and the like.

Whats the added security worth to know your turbo is not doing to blow its load at any moment?
 

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Or get an egay that's water cooled, and run an oil restrictor with the water lines hooked up.

Have your cake and eat it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yeah that is a possibilty as well. That does not mean it still will not get past the seals. I will bet you that many a person has used the restrictor and opened up their intake tract and still found oil in it. The restrictor is more a band aid then a correct fix. The oil seals are just shit on the eGay turbos. They fit very poor as do the bearings. Especially the thrsut bearing. I have seen one NEW that had .005" play and the max on it is supposed to be no more then .0015" on a used turbo and .0006" on a new turbo. Thrust play will basically work the oil seal over as it will constantly be riding the sides of the seals where as seal should basically sit still. At .005" oil seal play the oil will just go up and over the seal instead of going through the small slit that is in it.

I also know there are several people that have run the restrictor and had their turbo last 3 years.

A broken watch is still right 2 times a day..........


BUT a water cooled turbo is head and shoulders above an oil cooled. Some people just don't like the complexity of a water cooled turbo.
 

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BUT a water cooled turbo is head and shoulders above an oil cooled. Some people just don't like the complexity of a water cooled turbo.
which i dont understand.....total cost $10 for some hose and a couple plastic barbed fittings and an extra 5 min to install water lines.....
 

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Classic Man
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i used to post in threads where people asked if they had to hook up water lines...

i would always say yes... then 5 idiots who dont know shit will say they dont have it hooked up and it works fine...


so i let people destroy their shit now.
 

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idk ive seen ppl running without restrictors i got ripped on by a egay turbo gsr coupe and as soon as he was in front of me i couldnt see 10 ft in front of my car, so the oil blowing through the seals is no joke. but im setting up a stock z6 and cx racing t3t4 set up and i plan on using a stand alone oil system for it and instead of runing a restrictor run thicker oil without a restrictor or maybe 5 w30 if it will stay thick enough from not getting hot from goin through the motor.
 

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Last ebay turbo I had had 12k on it before I even got it and never smoked. Just saying.

Want a turbo that won't have any dumb issues? Buy a real one. Personally I'm not buying an ebay turbo just to dump money into it. Why try and polish a turd?

Props on making the effort though OP.
 

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i used to post in threads where people asked if they had to hook up water lines...

i would always say yes... then 5 idiots who dont know shit will say they dont have it hooked up and it works fine...


so i let people destroy their shit now.
Hmmm. Ok. Ive never had a water cooled turbo before, but the one I just bought has coolant ports. Where should I plumb the inlet and outlet from? Im not running an IACV or FITV, so that should give me a ton of ports on the back of the black to connect to. Right now, theyre just looped. Should I connect the outlet to the water pipe, and the inlet to the intake manifold or head inlet by the thermostat?
 

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Last ebay turbo I had had 12k on it before I even got it and never smoked. Just saying.

Want a turbo that won't have any dumb issues? Buy a real one. Personally I'm not buying an ebay turbo just to dump money into it. Why try and polish a turd?

Props on making the effort though OP.
X2

Hmmm. Ok. Ive never had a water cooled turbo before, but the one I just bought has coolant ports. Where should I plumb the inlet and outlet from? Im not running an IACV or FITV, so that should give me a ton of ports on the back of the black to connect to. Right now, theyre just looped. Should I connect the outlet to the water pipe, and the inlet to the intake manifold or head inlet by the thermostat?
:eek:fftopic:
 

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How is that off topic? If were on the discussion of how to save a turbo, and the part of the topic was to COOL THE BEARINGS. And people are discussing WATER COOLING. How is asking ideas for plumbing water cooling, on an EBAY turbo, off topic?

And way to post whore by adding nothing to the thread but an emoticon and a "x2" nuthugger comment.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Why try and polish a turd?
cuz its for a stock block.
And? My lsvtec was stock bottom end, my zc the turbo was on before that had pistons and rods but the A6 the turbo was on before the zc was stock. So.....what is your point exactly?
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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How is that off topic? If were on the discussion of how to save a turbo, and the part of the topic was to COOL THE BEARINGS. And people are discussing WATER COOLING. How is asking ideas for plumbing water cooling, on an EBAY turbo, off topic?

And way to post whore by adding nothing to the thread but an emoticon and a "x2" nuthugger comment.
Not so much OT but you can search and find the answer or start your own thread; the topic now is about a better way to make your ebay turbo last not "how do I plumb my water cooled turbo".
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I agree it in no way is worth it on the t3t4 junk that runs like $120. On the gt 30 clones it is worth it. You can have a dependable turbo that floweS as much as a real gt30 for a third the price.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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IDK I'm just real hesitant about paying that much for an ebay turbo. Personally I have had good luck with them but idk about shelling out 300+ for a GT "clone".
 

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Classic Man
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Hmmm. Ok. Ive never had a water cooled turbo before, but the one I just bought has coolant ports. Where should I plumb the inlet and outlet from? Im not running an IACV or FITV, so that should give me a ton of ports on the back of the black to connect to. Right now, theyre just looped. Should I connect the outlet to the water pipe, and the inlet to the intake manifold or head inlet by the thermostat?
i would take the looped line and just put the turbo in the middle of the loop.

on my old setup... well... it wasnt the best setup, but what i did was tap into the line that comes off the intake manifold that goes to the TB and routed that to my turbo, then routed it back to the TB.

im sure the TB was warmer than it was before but it never caused me any problems.
 

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i would take the looped line and just put the turbo in the middle of the loop.

on my old setup... well... it wasnt the best setup, but what i did was tap into the line that comes off the intake manifold that goes to the TB and routed that to my turbo, then routed it back to the TB.

im sure the TB was warmer than it was before but it never caused me any problems.
Perfect. Thats what I was thinking. But the hose no longer goes to the throttle body. So Ill just run the line from the intake manifold to one, and the line from the water pipe to the other.

Thanks for the response.
 

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what is your point exactly
Why try and polish a turd a nice turbo set up on a stock block is polishing a turd
turds go with turds i dont want a 3000 dollar turbo set up on my 500 dollar block for my 200whp 2000 dollar car

And all the nissan kids have had good luck with the cx racing ones that cost 200 so why not try
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Buy this turbo for $289 and break it down and rebuild it. If the specs listed are correct, and I asked and they confirmed them, then you can have a stout turbo for around $400 that you can rely on. Some of us do not have the coin to drop on a real GT2876 and the $800 you save compared to buying a new one will get you a forged bottom end and injectors so you can really throw some boost at it.

The point is that even though you do it cheaply, you can also do it right.

GT2876R T25/T28 TURBO 400+hp all honda universal Fit - eBay (item 180625004974 end time Feb-19-11 10:11:10 PST)
 
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