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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so my car was running perfectly fine I got home around 11 pm and left again at 3 am when I started the car it was very rough n shaky made it two blocks down the street n it killed so first we replaced the spark plugs and the wiring for that (excuse me cuz I know nothing bout cars LOL bare with me) then replaced distributor cap and rotor I believe it’s called and also replaced ignition coil and still won’t start a friend of mine put the title light up thingy on in and it’s lighting up but still misfiring what’s my next option well he said it lights up everywhere except for one of the wires but how do I know where the wire goes and what else could be wrong please keep in mind neither myself or my dad or any of my immediate friends know shit bout cars LOL also I’m a single mom of 3 collecting unemployment so ima need affordable suggestions that can be the solution if it’s possible I’ve spend almost 300 so far past two days I have a newborn and need my vehicle back running ASAP
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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Shotgun replacement of parts is the easiest way to throw away money. Please stop that, especially if you're tight on cash. You are between a rock and a hard place, the rock being the CR-V and the hard place your lack of access to someone who is good at diagnostics.

The best way honestly is to have someone experienced try to diagnose your car. If you keep throwing parts at it without knowing anything about cars, you'll never fix it and go broke doing it.

Honestly, if I were in your boat, I might try looking for a good shop that has good reviews, and get the CR-V to them somehow for diagnosis. That 300 you've already spent on ignition components may not have been needed at all, but could have bought 3-4 hours of a good shop's time to figure out whats wrong.


PLEASE SERIOUSLY CONSIDER TAKING IT TO A SHOP BEFORE CONTINUING TO READ!!!

From the way you describe the symptoms, how it started misfiring out of nowhere then randomly died very shortly after that, anything from a slipped timing belt to the fuel pump dying could have happened.

If the timing belt has never been replaced, I might try inspecting that, but since you don't really know what to look for, it's hard to know if there is a problem. There are also a bunch of things that need to be taken apart to look at it, so whether or not you want to go down that path is up to you. I can describe a few things that might jump out at you if you do try and take it apart:

The timing belt is a large toothed belt that drives the engine camshaft sprockets. The belt is made of rubber with various types of threaded reinforcement (nylon, fiberglass, etc.) inside the rubber to make it strong. When these belts age, they can stretch, rubber becomes brittle, teeth can rip off, etc. All of this can cause the belt to "jump" off the camshaft or crankshaft sprocket teeth. If it jumps, the engine is no longer in "time", and can cause the symptoms you describe.


A WARNING: if you take things apart, or replace a bunch of stuff and can't fix it or put it all back together properly, you might break other very expensive things since your knowledge of what certain things do is limited.

Also, shops might even turn you away if you've touched stuff before bringing it to them. Many shops don't want to work on stuff that's been tampered with by inexperienced hands. Can't tell you how many times I've seen it, customers bring their car in, with 1/4 of the engine in the trunk, parts and fasteners laying about in no particular order, wanting the shop to fix it. They either understand the potential black hole for labor costs, and will pay anything our shop requires to put it back together, usually requiring a significant down payment to start work, or we flat out tell the customer sorry, we aren't willing. It really depends on how far down the rabbit hole a customer has gone with trying to fix things themselves, oftentimes the quote or continued bill being much higher than the car is even worth, which is why shops can and do say no sometimes.
 

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Where abouts are you located? If you were close, I'd lend a hand and attempt diagnostics.

I usually try and extend this to people on here in similar situations, but everytime I've offered, folks are on the opposite side of the country, or are hundreds of miles away!

I've been in the situation before, cash strapped, wife and kids, I know what it's like. The last automotive shop I worked for liked to help folks out sometimes in similar situations, sometimes offering to completely absorb their entire bill. Can't tell you if he still does this or not....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Where abouts are you located? If you were close, I'd lend a hand and attempt diagnostics.

I usually try and extend this to people on here in similar situations, but everytime I've offered, folks are on the opposite side of the country, or are hundreds of miles away!

I've been in the situation before, cash strapped, wife and kids, I know what it's like. The last automotive shop I worked for liked to help folks out sometimes in similar situations, sometimes offering to completely absorb their entire bill. Can't tell you if he still does this or not....
I’m in Destrehan louisiana

I’m in Destrehan louisiana
Can you call me is there a way to send my number privately
 

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That is literally hundreds of miles haha.

It is difficult to offer advise on such an issue, so many possible realms. I hope you can bring it to a shop. It will be the fastest way to get it checked out.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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if you have a facebook, you can ask your friends if they have any mechanical knowledge or if they know someone....odds are they do.


"ISP: AT&T Wireless
Organization: AT&T Wireless
Services: Suspected network sharing device
Type: wireless


Continent: North America
Country: United States
State/Region: Texas
City: Dallas"

super suspicious.......
 

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Diagnosis is what you need.

Check fuel system pressure, and check for a clogged cat converter.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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When was the last time valves were lashed?

1999's have sinking valve issues, need set every 20k miles or you risk cracking an exhaust valve like I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When was the last time valves were lashed?

1999's have sinking valve issues, need set every 20k miles or you risk cracking an exhaust valve like I did.
Um I have no clue I just bought this like 3 months ago bc it was sitting at my friends tow yard at the time 4months it was towed there by the apartment manager cuz the woman died or some shit and they didn’t realize it til weeks after anyway so she was the only owner before me and it only had 110,000 miles on it but my friend who been helping me as much as he can LOL n putting the parts in for me said it looked like it hadn’t had a tune up like ever so idk what exactly that is that u talking bout but he’s not gonna know when either but he may be able to give a little insight on what it looks like n maybe we can assume from there LOL idk but ima ask him in a sec
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When was the last time valves were lashed?

1999's have sinking valve issues, need set every 20k miles or you risk cracking an exhaust valve like I did.
I just looked up the valve thing u was talking bout so I knew what to look for but that is actually one of the other codes that popped up that it said it needed p1508 or 1505 something close to that I need two sensors it says but they look like the same parts to me LOL those codes got read like 3 weeks ago but I didn’t know what it was or how serious ya know like I said I told the few men in my life that I thought would help the most so I thought by telling the what the codes were they would tell me if it was too serious that I need to fix it ASAP but fwd here we are n I’ve done spent 300 on buku néw shit that wasn’t even causing the problem LOL I mean not gonna say wasted it on parts that I didn’t need bc technically then other parts would’ve had to be changed but I’m js for rite rite now ugh
 

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Considering the age and mileage, I would go through every single fluid change possible.

brake fluid, power steering, trans fluid, and while the valve lash is getting adjusted, change the engine oil.

check tires for rot, check brakes, etc...

ANy vehicle that old with that low of mileage needs a really good safety inspection and tune-up
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Considering the age and mileage, I would go through every single fluid change possible.

brake fluid, power steering, trans fluid, and while the valve lash is getting adjusted, change the engine oil.

check tires for rot, check brakes, etc...

ANy vehicle that old with that low of mileage needs a really good safety inspection and tune-up
Ok thank you very much I appreciate you actually giving me help LOL👍
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Find a good mechanic that has experience with hondas, you have several different issues that require an experienced hand to deal with. Most likely a stripped timing belt, valves out of adjustment, rust and air in the cooling system. And as Matt said do every service thats called for before 100,000 miles. My step mom bought one from similar circumstances and exactly the same things happened around the same times. Also have the crank pulley/vibration damper checked, its a common failure and can cause massive damage when it goes out. Bad things happen when a car sits, make the mechanic you find your best friend, bring your brother/cousin/dad, whoever to chat them up and get buddy buddy, most techs at shops will take on these basket cases on the side if the manager says no and the feel for you. All that said the crv with a b20 in it is a nice little runaround and for myself cant be beat by newer cars with drive by wire throttle bodies and other electronics that steal control from the driver. Hope you enjoyed my book. Good luck!
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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I gave away my underpowered CRV, that was before it became 3.5 cylinder. It need F22/F23 TORQUE as the interior was near perfect.

It was a freaking PITA to work on, esp. sway bar endlinks every 40k miles.

 
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