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98 Civic Hatch
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
We are officially rockin鈥 and rollin鈥

Finished up the install today. Everything went smoothly (more or less) and started right up the first time. It was sputtering pretty badly whenever it got into boost, then I remembered that I forgot to put in turbo spec spark plugs 馃う馃徎鈥嶁檪锔 After that it runs like a champ! I鈥檓 very pleased. Now I just need to get it to the dyno!

138854
138855


Neptune RTP
Bosch 550cc
T3/t4 50 trim .63 AR at 6 psi
Stock bottom end

This probably only the beginning though lol. I really want to work on the interior next. Get some new carpet. Some new seats probably.

Also want to get another engine to build on the side. Probably going to go with a Z6 if I can find one. I鈥檒l go with a full build on that one with a proper Garrett or precision or something.
 

Formerly weebeastie
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Just read through your thread. Where did you end up in Neptune with your timing and fuel tables? Did someone give you a basemap to work off of or did you just start from a scratch N/A y8 basemap? Car looks great! Install looks great as well. I assume you're shooting for around 200 whp? Excellent work! Glad you put in the ARP head studs. They are great piece of mind for a y8 and in a hatch the power will feel great.
 

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98 Civic Hatch
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Just read through your thread. Where did you end up in Neptune with your timing and fuel tables? Did someone give you a basemap to work off of or did you just start from a scratch N/A y8 basemap? Car looks great! Install looks great as well. I assume you're shooting for around 200 whp? Excellent work! Glad you put in the ARP head studs. They are great piece of mind for a y8 and in a hatch the power will feel great.
Thanks for the kind words man. Im using one of the online base maps that are under the FI d series tab in Neptune. I went with one that was closest to my setup and just changed the fuel injector size and voltage calibrations to my specific injectors. And yes, about 200 whp is what I'm shooting for, for now. After reading and doing research I was NOT going without arp head studs lol.
 

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98 Civic Hatch
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ordered a MAC valve solenoid. Excited to put it in. Not going to be turning up the boost until it鈥檚 on the dyno, but more looking forward to the earlier full boost. Since the DP and exhaust are cheap eBay stuff, I鈥檓 having issues with leaks and wideband accuracy. I鈥檓 considering just cutting the DP where it meets the oil pan, because it鈥檚 hitting the oil pan as well, and just getting a bung welded in for the o2 sensor about 4-5 inches from the turbo outlet. However, not sure if I want to deal with the loudness and smell. I鈥檓 all for 鈥渞ace car鈥 as much as the next guy, but this is my daily lol.
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98 Civic Hatch
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
So I went ahead and cut the DP, and it鈥檚 surprisingly not as loud as I thought it was going to be. Don鈥檛 get me wrong, it鈥檚 still pretty loud. I thought my turbo was loud before, but holy crap is it loud now! It鈥檚 amazing lol. Just have to get an o2 bung welded in and have it extended out to the bumper. Overall, I鈥檓 happy with it.
 

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98 Civic Hatch
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
So my clutch started slipping at full boost, which I figured would happen. I was pretty sure the stock clutch was still in there. So I went ahead and put a yonaka 6 puck in with a LuK OEM flywheel. I hadn't seen too many reviews on the clutch but it looks sound and the one or two reviews I DID see were holding some pretty hefty builds. I'm not going to be throwing 300 ft/lbs at it, so it should be ok for my setup lol. Yonaka said they source the kit from exedy, which SOUNDS good of course. But the clutch I pulled off was actually an exedy, and the throw out bearing looked identical. Time will tell I suppose. Also went ahead and replaced the rear main seal while I was in there because it was leaking. Also realized my car was originally an auto trans. Found out when I tried to replace the in cabin dust seal. Lol. Also, got a faux leather arm rest cover and I love it. I think it looks amazing. That's all for now.
Wheel Automotive tire Wood Rim Bicycle part
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Car Vehicle Fixture Automotive design Personal luxury car
Fixture Vehicle door Gas Bumper Automotive exterior
Car Vehicle Gear shift Speedometer Motor vehicle
 

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98 Civic Hatch
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Oh yeah forgot I also bought the stuff for a power window/lock conversion because quality of life. Manual system is beginning to go all to crap and it's ridiculous to roll them back up. And the splines on the handles are all chewed up. It's terrible lol
 

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98 Civic Hatch
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
MAN my clutch was definitely slipping more than I thought. It pulls so hard, it's amazing. I finally got through the break in period and let her rip.
Replaced the distributor o ring because that was leaking oil too. I am now oil leak free! Just have to get my exhaust made up and it's off to the dyno! I'm going to run a full exhaust, the bumper dumper idea is fun and all, but I think I'd prefer a rear exit with a nice muffler. I'll keep you guys posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Also, got a b20 iat sensor from the junk yard and wired it in with a corresponding nut jb welded in. Its definitely not pretty but it gets the job done! Pretty sure the stock push in iat was leaking. Had it in there with a grommet and noticed that it would push outward after a hard pull.
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Formerly weebeastie
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And when you turn the boost up, at least now you'll hear it when it hits the hood lol.

Yes, you just "fixed" a boost leak, but I doubt the JB weld will hold once it heat cycles and you turn up the boost. Maybe it does. It will til it don't!
 

BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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that close to the open end of the pipe, and you didnt think to thread it through the tube into the nut?

little bit of thread locker and it may hold.

or, slightly /less/ ghetto
Silicone Port System
 
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Registered
98 Civic Hatch
Joined
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
that close to the open end of the pipe, and you didnt think to thread it through the tube into the nut?

little bit of thread locker and it may hold.

or, slightly /less/ ghetto
Silicone Port System
What do you mean by thread it through the tube into the nut? The nut is jb'd and the iat sensor is threaded into it.

Edit: after looking at the link you posted, I'm guessing you mean the actual coupler. Such as, cutting hole in coupler, nut on inside? Well I already had a hole in the piping from the stock iat sensor. 馃し馃徎

And when you turn the boost up, at least now you'll hear it when it hits the hood lol.

Yes, you just "fixed" a boost leak, but I doubt the JB weld will hold once it heat cycles and you turn up the boost. Maybe it does. It will til it don't!
Yes, it's a temporary fix for sure. I need to have it properly welded to the pipe.
 

Formerly weebeastie
Joined
1,413 Posts
He meant make a Sammich out of it. Bung is a piece of bread, sensor is a piece of bread, and tubing is the meat.......


He meant you should've put the bung inside the pipe, held it with pliers, then screwed in the sensor from the outside. Could've held the bung with some long needle nose pliers, put a ton of Loctite on the bung/sensor, and then could've slathered on some jb to seal the edges. Just thoughts of janky stuff I've done in past
 
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