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98 Civic Coupe Allignemnt Specs to Daily?

336 Views 4 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  mattliston
Recently bought a 98 civic coupe with a d16y8 manual swap that was an unfinished project to learn on. I’ve always worked in my own vehicles but as far as modifying this is my first so please bear with me. When I first got the car it had a ton of issues including bad shock absorbers with cut springs. So far I have replaced both front wheel bearings, rack and pinion, inner and outer tie rod ends, front sway bar links, and truhart street plus coilovers. This weekend I’m throwing on truhart adjustable upper control arms for the front and truhart rear camber kit. Car came with a nice set of 16x8 MST’s that I want to use. Tires on it are 195/45/16. Got Yokohama advans on them.
My question is what specs should I run for daily driving? Car is lowered about 2.5” currently with no rubbing issues unless I’m going up my driveway (on a farm it actually does surprisingly well going up it and over speed bumps, etc) but I want to raise it back up to about 1.5-2” drop. I’ve read online you can go up to 2.5” of camber with the toe zeroed out and not have that bad of tire wear. Would maybe -1.0 all the way around be a good place to start? Or should I have less camber in the rear, and why? I’m going to
adjust the coilovers before I get it alligned.
Car Tire Wheel Cloud Sky
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Raise it up and put on real tires. Stretched tires are foolish and cause extra tire wear just by themselves, regardless of how good the alignment is. The tire needs a nuetral spot, and stretched means it is constantly being abused.


Throw a set of 215 45 16s on there, raise the car up so it sits nice and flush, and enjoy a far better ride quality.

Very slight toe out up front (0.25 degrees overall, 0.125 each), and zero toe out in the rear will help it rotate a bit while not wondering too much. The toe out makes hte wheels want to rotate, but keeping it minimal means it stays under control while daily driving.

Make sure you set preload on those coilovers. If not sure, check out a few youtube videos. It is critical to have proper preload so you make the most out of them. Too tight, you bounce off a piece of paper. Too soft, and you shorten the life of the strut. I like starting with car jacked up, and snugging the spring seat, then going half a turn more. Soften from there by loosening.
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For daily driving, camber is correct when tires don't rub fenders in a straight line or while cornering.

Bring it to an alignment shop, tell them to set toe to factory, and pull out as much camber as needed to prevent rubbing, no more.

Also, 8" wide wheels with 195's.... damn lol. It aint no drift car haha. Stretching the sidewall out on wider wheels effectively triangulates the sidewall, strengthing it to prevent it from rolling like it should, and acts more like a ski, allowing the wheel to slide easier than it otherwise would. This is why this is popular with drifters on a budget. Useless for drifting at high speeds, but will let you slide easily on cheap tires at low to moderate speeds.

In a FWD application, learn to love your sidewalls lol. You'd be surprised how important square sidewalls are for grip. They flex and roll to maintain a flat foot under hard cornering.
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Thanks for the reply’s, Matt I did preload the coilover on install (hand tight while in the air annd a full turn tightened past this) and they seemed good to me but I will double check, ride quality was night and day compared to how it was before install. Unfortunately I already spent the money on the 195/45/16s, Yokohama advans, that what was on the car when I bought it and figured I’d go with the previous owners choice, guess that was wrong. Looking it up now it’s a half inch stretch currently, next time I need tires I will upsize. Thanks again for the info, the car rode surprisingly well and seemed very planted on the road when I first go it/anfter coilovers install too. Insides of tires wore out and I had one blow out while on a road trip, which is why I replaced them. I don’t know for sure but I’m thinking everything just out of wack. The more I messed with the car the more rigged stuff I found, one side of cars suspension being super loose, the other side being super tight, mix match everything, no castle nuts, all the wiring being JUST electrical taped, you get the point. Definitely has been good to learn on so far😂 hopefully they don’t wear terribly and I can enjoy them for a bit… but thanks for the info and the knowledge fellas I appreciate it.
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Sometimes a solid "nut and bolt" session will solve a lot of shit.

Go over it a few times, putting wrenches and sockets on everything.


If you are clever enough, you can create your own little toe adjust rig with a piece of steel plate, some slots, and a few measuring tapes
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