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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a 97 honda civic lx that wont start due to no spark. I thought it was because the harness wasnt right because i did Y7 to Y8 swap but i put the old Y7 harness and computor in it nothing changed. Ive tested the distributor and it all checks out but there is no power to the distributor from the ecu. Ive checked grounds and from what i can see everything is right. All fuses are good. Everything else works in the car. But i need to figure this out asap can anybody help. Ive searched and searched for answers but i cant find any.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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main relay. thermostat ground. transmission ground. battery fuse. ecu fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
main relay. thermostat ground. transmission ground. battery fuse. ecu fuse.
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Where is the main relay, i made sure the thermostat ground was clean and connected as well as the tranny ground, and ive checked all fuses in the engine conpartment fuse box and all the fuses under the dash.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Driverside under the dash, up above the kick panel on the left. It should click on for 3 secs at key on, and you should hear the fuel pump prime.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Do you have a test light with a standard incandescent bulb?
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Put the clip on the positive terminal, touch to coil ground and have someone crank it, does it flash?
 

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no power AT the coil? or no pwoer at the CONNECTOR to the distributor?

big difference there.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
no power AT the coil? or no pwoer at the CONNECTOR to the distributor?

big difference there.....
No power to the connector. I disconected it and the only wire with voltage with the ignition turn on is the big black and yellow wire
 

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check voltages at the ignition switch, and go over the ecu and fueling fuses, checking for battery voltage, and ignition power when key is on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
check voltages at the ignition switch, and go over the ecu and fueling fuses, checking for battery voltage, and ignition power when key is on.
Sorry for the late reply. Thx for the help i figured it out. The distributor was all kinds of messed up so i got a new one and replaced it and it finaly started but 5 minutes into driving the clutch or tranny went out so now i have to figure that out.
 

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clutch or tranny is a significant differnce.

Start with low hanging fruit. Sit in the car, shift through the gears, feel for resistance as it goes into gear. If it doesnt feel solid, or doesnt sound or feel like it does anything, could be a simple bushing problem on the linkage. They are cheap to replace.

If it goes into gear just fine, get out and try rolling the car while in 1st. If it moves easily, then I would be worried.


if the car has been sitting or has never gotten the clutch fluid changed, likely you found an air pocket and simply need to bleed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
clutch or tranny is a significant differnce.

Start with low hanging fruit. Sit in the car, shift through the gears, feel for resistance as it goes into gear. If it doesnt feel solid, or doesnt sound or feel like it does anything, could be a simple bushing problem on the linkage. They are cheap to replace.

If it goes into gear just fine, get out and try rolling the car while in 1st. If it moves easily, then I would be worried.


if the car has been sitting or has never gotten the clutch fluid changed, likely you found an air pocket and simply need to bleed it.
Well while i was putting the car together i flushed all fluids out and out new fluids in and blead the systems. Ill have to check the linkage but my dad was sitting in the car with it in first and off the clutch and i was pushing back and forth. It drove fine for a few minutes and i shifted into 3rd and it was all gone and now when the clutch is let out in any gear it make a weird ticking noise so im pretty sure its in the tranny. Idk if i put the clutch together wrong or if you can even do that but it is brand new.
 

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If it drove fine for a few minutes, Id bleed the clutch again first. But that means engine off, sitting in car, rowing through the gears to make sure it feels like it is engaging each gear.

hydraulics are a pain at times, and all it takes is one tiny air bubble to make the clutch useless
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Define ticking... any accompanying vibration that goes along with it?
No vibration but its just a weird not constant light ticking coming from the clutch area and only happens when the clutch is pressed in. I also dont know if damage was done to the tranny when the previous engine blew. I wasnt the one who blew it but after looking at the engine it was a bad blow up that locked everything up instantly.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Lets go back to the feel of the shifter, engine off, clutch engaged: does it feel like it clicks into gear all the way?
Put the car on jack stands, climb under and have someone work the shifter while you watch both ends of the shift linkage, check the bushing at the back and the roll pin where the linkage attaches to the shift shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lets go back to the feel of the shifter, engine off, clutch engaged: does it feel like it clicks into gear all the way?
Put the car on jack stands, climb under and have someone work the shifter while you watch both ends of the shift linkage, check the bushing at the back and the roll pin where the linkage attaches to the shift shaft.
I messed with the shifter and i can feel it go into every position and i went under and had someone work it around and it was moving fine. I could also hear it shifting back and forth in the tranny.
 

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Hmmmm.... how hard was that 3rd gear shift? Pull the inspection cover and the clutch fork boot, see if you can get a peek inside and see whats going on, anything I can think of that would cause this going to make more than a slight random tick for noise.
 
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