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Discussion Starter #1
Starting to piece together parts for my new build. A little different than some of my last cars. No turbos this time lol...
First off the motor is a b18b1 (81x89) with a stock gsr head.

Recipe for power!
For the head:
Skunk2 intake manifold port matched to a 70mm tb
Skunk2 pro1 cams
RLZ titanium retainers
Supertech dual valve springs

For the bottom end:
Stock bore p30 pistons (12.5:1)
Arp rod bolts
Golden eagle lsvtec kit

Fuel:
Fuel injector development 725cc injectors
Aem fuel rail
E85 fuel

Transmission:
Stock b16 EM1 transmission

I am open to opinions and ideas and also any one who has friends with na lsvtec setups who can share experiences. Should I have some mild port work done? Is the e85 necessary? Youtube isn't very definitive with setups. So it's hard to get an idea
 

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You should be around 200-220whp... I had a similiar set up b18b gsr head, stock IM, with lower compression (11:1) s2s2 cams on 93 and it only made 176whp but very reliable. With E85 you should get the extra power.
 

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These are only my opinions which are based mostly on prior experiences.

Invest in quality port work unless you plan to just rev it out to get your power goal. This and a different choice in camshaft manufacturer are the two things I would have changed about my B20V build.

E85 will enable you to run more ignition timing before detonation sets in. It really depends on the dynamics of the engine as to whether it is beneficial or not. It's not something I have personally explored though. Only run those 725s if you plan to go this route for fuel.

I've had piss poor experiences with Skank9's Pro series cams as far as longevity is concerned, but many people swear they have had many successes. Perhaps acceptable longevity is well short of 20K miles for many, but it isn't for me.

Invest in stronger rods if you do plan to rev it out. Even with ARPs properly loaded, the big end bores will distort under the high tensile loads that high engine speed will create.

There is tons of info out there on LSV builds, but like anything else you have to sift through mountains of bullshit.

The GE kit is very nice, but over priced IMO, and that is the only kit I ever used on personal builds.

I'd be sure the Skank9 manifold design is actually designed around the P72 head's port entry angle and shape. Their older designs were not, and nobody else's were either as they were mostly copies of the ITR intake manifold. The PR3 and P72 are similar, but far from the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The fuel is not a definite yet. But if I run Neptune they can be setup for 2 different fuel maps. Basically 2 different tunes. So I could have a 93 tune also, more conservative on timing. I've read a lot of the old lsv honda-tech articles and they are all outdated 2005-2008 write-ups.

I don't really plan to rev it to the moon, maybe 8500-8700. Or if the cams keep making power that high and the tuner is comfortable to go a little higher.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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imo, bump it to pro2's or another similarly sized cam, rev it 9k, and you'll meet your goal without issue.


also, it's really nice to see a realistic power goal NA, refreshing on DSO where brokedicks think a 59300 cam and p29s will get them 180whp out of a d16z6 :crazy:
 

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Yes. I agree with the above, you need more/better cams for the build.

Specially if you do run E85, you will get more from a hotter cam than anything.

Really, the cam sets the build... So better to research more in that department.
 

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I agree with these guys about port work, you might be better off with the gsr IM. I do also hear everyone says get the pro2's, but i have no experience with them, just heard they make good power.
 

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I agree with these guys about port work, you might be better off with the gsr IM. I do also hear everyone says get the pro2's, but i have no experience with them, just heard they make good power.
FWIW, I made right at 200 WHP with a mostly stock P72 intake and Pro2s reving the B20V out to 8400 through a 2" collector and Greddy SP2 exhaust.

IIRC, power didn't carry much past 8400 RPM on this particular build which was probably held back on both the intake and exhaust side.

The Pro2s made for an awesome powerband, but they didn't last long for me.

And Mr. Fodo is correct, cams essentially set the build.
 

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Honestly if I was going to invest all that I would go the extra mile and do b20 with pistons and rods and probably the Pro2 cams as mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The only reason I didn't go with a b20 build is the car came with the lsv in it with the bottom end. I have contemplated the 84mm b20 bottom end. But I will look into the pro2 cams. Maybe buy a spare gsr or b16 head to have ported in the side.

I thought the pro2 cams would be a little too big for my power goal. I'll look a little more into it
 

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Reason I say rods and b20 lower is because I have a B18C1 with stock lower end, springs/retainers, s2 intake, 4-2-1 header and it hadnt leveled off on the dyno at 8600 when they shut it down due to stock rods. I have the rev limit set to 9200 and it pulls to that hard. If you have better cams and even a little portwork your peak power can very possibly be over 9k, which is asking trouble on stock LS rods.

A B20 lower end at 8,100RPMs flows about the same amount of air as a b18 lower end at 9K. So between rods and a B20 bottom you have more of your ass covered.

But at least do rods.
 

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you dont need to touch the bottom end at all if you are staying under 13:1 compression and dont go over 9k rpm

cams, springs, and an better intake manifold are all you need to support over 180whp on a HEALTHY WELL TAKEN-CARE OF motor.

the fuel system doesnt really need much. injectors for a better spray patten for the most part.

But there are a few 220whp CRV-tec builds using fully stock fuel and ignition systems


just slapping the gsr head on there, the oil kit, and a tune, you will already be loving it. you could opt to leave it like that until you save up for a total build down the road
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Old beat up piece of shit vs new header
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Back view of the car being worked on
 

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with THAT header, Id almost be tempted to cut a massive rectangul out of the front bumper and let everyone see the radiator and header lol

Looks good
 

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FWIW, I made right at 200 WHP with a mostly stock P72 intake and Pro2s reving the B20V out to 8400 through a 2" collector and Greddy SP2 exhaust.

IIRC, power didn't carry much past 8400 RPM on this particular build which was probably held back on both the intake and exhaust side.

The Pro2s made for an awesome powerband, but they didn't last long for me.

And Mr. Fodo is correct, cams essentially set the build.
8400 on a b20 lower end is around 9300 on a b18 lower end.

you dont need to touch the bottom end at all if you are staying under 13:1 compression and dont go over 9k rpm
9k on stock LS rods seems REALLY dicey to me and there is zero point to big cams on stock low compression LS pistons, so obviously you have to touch the bottom end, if you dont change the pistons you might as well not change the cams or springs/retainers either.
 

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as far as durability, I know they are pretty damn tough. Ol army buddy is going on over 5 years on a boosted CRV-tec build. stock top and bottom with I believe a GE oil kit (head is from B16 from del sol, b16a3?)

hes been running over 350whp on a T66 from ebay

hes accidentally hit 9200 rpm a few times at the track, and it regularally goes over 8k on his normal driving (WAY too heavy of a right foot)

Considering a GSR head that has been shaved can make over 12:1 compression on LS/CRV blocks, Im sticking to my no-touchy of the block recommendation.


Basically Im saying why touch it unless you are planning a full build/rebuild
 

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Because ripping .063" off the head is kind of a lot? Most machinists I have met wont even go over 40 thousandths. Besides big cams and lots of shaving can end badly as well.

Dead stock bottom end? Not sheet peened or even ARP rod bolts? If so your friend has been damn lucky, but just because your friends engine hasnt blown doesnt mean all LS bottom ends will hold up to the same abuse. Lots of examples on the internet of blown LS/Vtecs.
 

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damn lucky?

Hes an idiot as far as reusing stock headbolts 2-3 times, and blows his headgasket at least once every 6 months.


Id say its proof the setup is durable, though really requires studs and a thick gasket.


Head shaving is far safer with stock pistons than aftermarket high dome pistons that ruin the quench even further than stock B series pistons do anyways.

At least the notec 1.8 and 2.0 pistons have a dish to allow great flame travel.



You forget lsvtec and crvtec builds have been happening for 20 years. Its a proven low dollar high performance build.

You are correct about the headshaving being an issue though. BUT that issue is if he wants to ever do a real build, he HAS to scrap the head as most aftermarket piston's domes will hit the plug straps at the very least after shaving a bunch.

(0.063? dunno where that number popped up. I thought it was closer to 0.050 with a GSR head and thinner headgasket for over 12:1)
 
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