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Discussion Starter #1
So I know this topic has been covered 100 times before but I cant find exactly what I am looking for. So my Civic idles at about 1500 which is too high. then it idle hunts from ill say 1400-1600. the tach does not move much but you can hear the difference.

so like everyone else I cleaned my IACV which did nothing. So i unplugged it to see if that would do anything. It didnt. (should it do something when i unplug my IACV!?!?!) I unplugged my Air Sensor thing ( i think a mass air flow sensor... i dont know its on the throttle body and is not the TPS) so when i unplugged that the idle went way down. So here are my guesses why the idle is high and surging.

1. there is a coolant temp sensor right by the upper radiator hose on the head of the engine. that plug is broken so there are no wires to the sensor. (im guessing that is my high idle since the engine thinks its like -40 degrees)

2. My iacv is broken? cause i would think unplugging it would cause the car to die or idle low or something and it does not change at all, so my guess would be its broken.

so all in all. Is it even bad to have a surging idle, I hardly ever drive the car anyway. and there is a sensor on the thermostat that is the same as the one on the coolant temp sensor. can i steal the one from the thermostat and put splice it onto the wires from the coolant temp sensor?

also i'm new to this forum so i hope im not sounding too stupid...
 

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Try this. I'm having idle issues as well. Tis might help narrow things down.



Remove your intake tube. Start the car. When you look into the throttle ody there will be two holes on the firewall side of the throttle body. One on top and one below it. The top hole leads to your iacv the other leads to the fitv which should be underneath your throttle body. Plug the bottom hole with your thumb and tell us what happens.


You want to narrown it down to a vac leak or a malfunctioning valve. I got some good troubleshooting tips in my thread about idle problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, actually funny story i did just read your thread. its dark and freezing out right now. So that will be my next step is plugging that bottom hole and seeing what is going on. Thanks for the help. by the way i am also a parking lot mechanic =)
 

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Don't let that stop you. Use your cell phone as a light source and bundle up. I even change my oil in the rain and snow.


Parking lot warrior right here!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Lol I went home for lunch. Started her up. Put my thumb on the hole and she purred. So that means iacv right. Now advise time. Do I buy a new one. Or bring it to work and get it cleaned. I work at a local car dealer so I got access to Carb cleaner. Brake cleaner. TB cleaner ands pressure washer. Or do I buy new. Also lastly is there any wiring I can jump to hard wire it to make sure it is not a wiring issue
 

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Lol I went home for lunch. Started her up. Put my thumb on the hole and she purred.
Which hole did you cover? The pink one or the brown one? lol


Top or bottom?
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Bottom hole fixed the issue. Started her up at lunch. Still idles like shit. I may have not resealed the iacv good enough cause its leaking a little coolant. Any other ideas or tips?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also. Since you guys seem smart n stuff. Is a block off plate even worth looking into. Its not a daily driven car just something for weekend fun. So I can't see I actually need the iacv
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So here is some info to help you help me =)

start up day one
65 degrees F outside
started engine. ran for 30 seconds. checked oil (first start up since rebuild)
started again. idled 1500 and surged
my brother (mechanic) said i should hold my rpms at 2500 to break in new piston rings. I couldnt get the rpms at 2500. if i even touched the gas it would go up past 3,500 we unpluged the plug on the top of the throttle body he called it the map or maf or something. i could then hold it around 2800. anyway i had great throttle response maybe too good. then shut it down for the day after messing with it for maybe total 30 min of running

then i posted on here. took off IACV. cleaned and put back on

start up day two (yesterday)
temp was 30 degrees F outside
started engine which started very very hard. took almost 2 min. priming fuel then cranking. would start and die. reprime start and die over and over.
still idles bad 1500 and surging
throttle response is not there. if i do anything but a very slow press of the gas the engine bogs.

so this is where i sit. its cold out for the next few days. I got the weekend off and it should be nice (in the 50s) so i know i need my ECM coolant temp sensor hooked up. could that be my throttle response issue? my only differences are the cleaned IACV and the temp so im really confused about that... and yea is that block off plate a realistic idea or no? :screwy:

Edit here---
so i just looked over the thread again, turns out im an idiot... who knew. so the bottom whole is the fast idle controll valve thing? ok well i guess i need to clean that. cleaned the IACV for nothing, well it cant hurt unless that caused my absence of throttle response and hard starting...
 

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'93 / '95 Del Sol Si - '95 DX Coupe - '00 Accord EX F23 Manual
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Don't let that stop you. Use your cell phone as a light source and bundle up. I even change my oil in the rain and snow.


Parking lot warrior right here!
This man has my respect. I made a pup tent around my car when it hit the 20's
last week and used a kerosene heater. Kept my fingers from falling off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cleaned the FIAV thing today at work. It was filled with coolant goop but a bit of wheel acid/throttle body cleaner took care of that. Replaced hardware as i always do and sealed her back up. I took off my IACV again and resealed that too since it was leaking i may have forgotten to tighten the bolts more than hand tight... dont tell anyone. So that stopped my coolant leak. And i put on my coolant temp sensor. Started her up. Idle around 1250 and surging. But after a little bit she was at 1000 and only a slight hic up now and again. Then settled to 800 and smooth when warm. i dont know if it just took a while for the coolant to get in all the hoses or if its just going to surge when cold. Its dark again so i filled the coolant and ill let it sit till tomorrow. you guys are the best for helping me through my issue, don't worry ill have many more.
 

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I'm doing the same thing right now with mine. There is an "idle learning" process that, I believe, requires to pull the ecu fuse. I'm still reading as I haven't done this in over 5 years.

I used simple green and submerged the insides of the iacv. Before cleaning it was all rusty brown/red inside. Now it's a nice sparkly white. :) I'm hoping for a similar outcome.

See if you can find the idle learning process before I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
man i know nothing about no idle thing like that. Wanna hear a good story. As you can tell i do not really know too much about cars. I know most basic stuff but what i like most is electrical. I just took my ECU and cut all the wires off with about a foot of wires. Bolted the ECU to the wall by my trunk behind my rear wheel well (car is stripped) and hand wired the entire body harness. So yea i dont know much about the idle stuff. I did hear another problem may be the alternator not knowing how much draw is on the battery so it puts more amperage to the battery drawing more horsepower from the engine, although for me this does not apply as i rewired my alternator to only have one wire and no adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
just side topic again since you guys are smart... Any prefrences on suspension kits talking like shocks and springs (coilover kit) i can spend around 1200 bucks comfortably. Do i get The best Skunk2 kit or the KW variant 1's or tein... why is there so many brands....
 

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just side topic again since you guys are smart... Any prefrences on suspension kits talking like shocks and springs (coilover kit) i can spend around 1200 bucks comfortably. Do i get The best Skunk2 kit or the KW variant 1's or tein... why is there so many brands....
There's lots of opinions on here about suspension stuff. There's a whole section you can look through. But if you ask me, I'll just ask you what the purpose of the car is and then you should go from there. Like for me. I want a dd that will see about 50-75 passes a year at the drag strip. I don't need anything serious. Prolly just a Koni/GC combo for me. Not sure what rear spring rate but ill cross that bridge when I get there.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
mine is a spirted only driving, weekend street racing and autocross driving only. i got a daily driver this is my race car. strictly for fun on weekends. and i prefer racing in corners not on straights. I guess this is what i have heard.

Raceland - good for price
Skunk 2 - some really good some really bad, rust easy (i live in wisconsin) good honda baised company
Blox - skunk2 knock off, good products
tien - good suspension baised company.
kw - variant 3's are best suspension kit around but for 2,000+ i could only afford variant 1's
koin - learned today
ground effects - learned today
H&R - learned today
Apexi - learned today
Eibach - learned today

these are all in my price range. Also for 1200 its hard, cause i can afford the best skunk 2 kit, or the basic KW kit or mid range (more specifically lower middle range) tien kit. so is best of worst better than worst of the best???? why is this so hard...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
another added questions. is a kit better or buying shock spring independently, and one preference for me is adjustable ride height. since it is stripped a 2 inch drop wont actually drop it 2 inches so its hard to gauge what drop i need.
 

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Skunk2/blox/etc = junk.
Chinese coilovers = waste of money.
Koni yellows/GC = all you need.
 
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