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Worst Mechanic Ever!
EG
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Discussion Starter #1
I hope I'm not asking for old info. I tried searching, but I think I don't know enough about what I want to even be able to look. I'll start with my problem:

I have a 1995 civic Ex, should be running the D16Z6 though I have not verified. I don't see why it wouldnt be, but I haven't physically checked, so I'm just assumming at this point. I was planning a B18C GSR swap, but found out as many that it's justy too f-ing expensive. This was a year and a half later of letting my engine run into the ground.

I was going to fix the engine, but it appears I can get a used good condition D-series for cheaper. This is the whole reason I ran into this forum: What should I look for? My main questions are:

1. What engine should I look for? I heard theres a JDM D16Z6 that does 140HP with better intake manifold, slightly larger injectors, and larger exhaust. I'm skeptical because I cant find much info and the engine was on eBay. I'm paranoid of eBay and getting ripped off. Regardless, should I get another D16Z6 or is there a better engine to drop in my car?

2. What hardware do I need? I am building this car to last, for autocrossing or racing and daily driving. I have $1000 for the full swap, and access to all the tools I should need. I am really not too knowledgable, so what advice would you give for a novice doing an engine replacement? Aside from check all lines and hoses, should I replace motor mounts? Upgrade or OEM?

3. Upgrades while it's out:

My buddy told me I should "deck the heads". From my understanding, this means machine the mating surface for better finish and contact, but also remove material evenly for slightly higher compression. He's a V8 guy, him and his dad are building a track 67 mustang, but would that be a horrible idea on a D series engine?

I want to polish the intake, would this be worth my time to have done?

I want an LSD. For racing it would seem essential. I know all the B guys just use the OEM Type-r LSD, but would the B16 type-r LSD fit? If not, whats a good LSD, how much should I look to spend, etc? While I have the engine out and working on it, I figure it's the best time to drop an LSD if at all possible. Note though, this is daily driver first, race car second, simply because I want a car I can legally drive, so I need a sports LSD, not full on race.

Sorry for any newb questions, I am a newb. If I missed a thread that answers anything, please just point me in the right direction. I really need advice soon, need this done in the next month. I am moving to California from Kentucky and need this car to drive it in a month or two, so my first concern is fixing it. All help is appreciated and will be reciprocated somehow!
 

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a good motor for you would be the JDM d15b vtec. Some of the transmissions come with a stock LSD... although the transmission you have is the exact same one, just without LSD (sell it for $250 if it's in great shape).

There's a guy on this forum that sells these motors for $350 i think. There are many places in california that sell these engines, too. With transmission sometimes... just for more money. If you want to verify that the transmission has an LSD, look through the axle holes and if you see a metal bar going across, it DOESN'T have an LSD... it should be clear.

Your ecu will be good enough for the d15b, although you may want to get it chipped for a d15b program... not totally necessary though.

Don't deck the head unless you really have to. It raises compression, but it's something you should do when you're changing other parts... like pistons and rods and/or doing head porting. Decking the head will require you to get a new headgasket and possibly head bolts (more $$$)... it helps with power, but if you ever want to go turbo, increasing your compression ratio will make things harder.

Don't polish the intake... it needs to be somewhat rough so that fuel will not collect in droplets before it enters the combustion chamber. You can polish the exhaust side only... and piston tops.

Aftermarket LSD will cost you $900 (Quaife)... although OBX makes a cheaper LSD now... I wouldn't get it until there's enough feedback on it. It's too new to tell if it's good.

I think I gave you enough info to search for what you need... use the search button at the top of the forum.
 

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Worst Mechanic Ever!
EG
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info, I'll get to searching. Any reason to use the JDM D15B besides it fits and has higher HP? Or is there other reasoning like better head, better internals, easier to tune, etc etc?

Also, since I have decided to drop a new engine in, is there anything I should replace in the process? The reason I ask is because I want to take a business first, fun later approach, meaning I want everything done right. I would rather spend money on maintenance and building it right then just grab quick HP. Thanks!
 

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the JDm d15b is a direct bolt-in to your car ... its obdI and everything - very simple and is basically the japanese version of the d16z6. It will be cheaper than finding a z6 with 40,000 miles on it ...

replace all pumps , belts and filters when the motor is off ..... also if your thinking about doing transmission work ( LSD, clutch ) this would be the time to do it.
 
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Haysoos said:
Thanks for the info, I'll get to searching. Any reason to use the JDM D15B besides it fits and has higher HP? Or is there other reasoning like better head, better internals, easier to tune, etc etc?

Also, since I have decided to drop a new engine in, is there anything I should replace in the process? The reason I ask is because I want to take a business first, fun later approach, meaning I want everything done right. I would rather spend money on maintenance and building it right then just grab quick HP. Thanks!
Its a good little engine, my fav. is the D16z6 myself, but the JDM d15B is definetly reliable. It doesnt sound like you'll do the work yourself (I didnt do the core part of mine either) so I'd definetly have a mechanic or friend take you through the steps and process of engine swapping.
 

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the SQAD said:
the JDm d15b is a direct bolt-in to your car ... its obdI and everything - very simple and is basically the japanese version of the d16z6. It will be cheaper than finding a z6 with 40,000 miles on it ...

replace all pumps , belts and filters when the motor is off ..... also if your thinking about doing transmission work ( LSD, clutch ) this would be the time to do it.
werd!! go with the d15b, very good choice
 

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Worst Mechanic Ever!
EG
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Discussion Starter #7
holly said:
Its a good little engine, my fav. is the D16z6 myself, but the JDM d15B is definetly reliable. It doesnt sound like you'll do the work yourself (I didnt do the core part of mine either) so I'd definetly have a mechanic or friend take you through the steps and process of engine swapping.
Neg. Proper mechanic supervision and internet are all I need. I want to do ALL work myself, as far as engine goes. I want to learn how to do all maintenance on it and I think this will be a great time to learn a lot of stuff.

I've read just about every post on "D15B swap", but I'm leaning towards just snagging another d16z6. The reason being I will be moving to Cali and I hear D15B JDMs dont pass smog. I want a street legal car. Until I get a second car, this will be a daily driver engine setup, a learning build if you will, until I have enough money to build a non-street race setup for it.

Not to mention I hear aftermarket parts are rare and parts in general are expensive cause there is no USDM specs. Makes sense, it's a JDM engine. For now, until I know more, I dont want to have to deal with that and having to get custom parts. This is only because I'm learning and this is a fix first setup.

Also, more questions:
1. My exhaust needs replaced. I haven't seen it, but I can hear it, it's time to replace it. Should I get larger than stock (higher flow) exhaust now while I'm doing it, or just get it replaced with what does stock? I probably can't touch the intake as far as performance mods. I was taught that you have to do exhaust and intake together or it could make the engine run wrong. Makes sense to me, but would just piping make enough difference? I've heard best for civic n/a setup is 2.25". suggestions? I'm clueless.

2. Any cheap mods I can do while working on the new engine, replacing gaskets and what not? I want to do suspension before engine, but is there anything that would be smart to do with the engine out? I can't afford an LSD, so anything else? Ideas?
 

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change the clutch and resurface the flywheel... if it needs it. If you're planning on going turbo in the future, a better clutch than stock would be nice.

clean the engine bay while the motor is out :TU:

as for the d15b, yeah, stock replacements will be hard to come by, but since the motor is cheap as hell, it's not a big deal. As for cali smog, I THINK it would pass smog, but not inspection. You could always do the bribe method.... ask Sqad ;)

2 1/4" exhaust is perfect for NA. get a custom exhaust done at a muffler shop with mandrel bent piping. cheaper than full exhausts online.

if you're keeping the same engine, replace all the pumps and new timing belt.
 

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Worst Mechanic Ever!
EG
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Discussion Starter #9
I just don't want to have to deal with smog crap, so good old D16Z6 it is for me. Should I look for an engine locally (Louisville KY) or does anyone know where I can get full engine w/o tranny in good shape online?

Clutch is less than a year old, and it'll be awhile before I'll be putting much more than stock HP through it. Once the engine is running right, it's suspension time.
 
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dude just get a d15b7 non vtec and use the block and your vtec head off your car, its just about like a d15b vtec but its going to be much cheaper, im sure u could find a d15b7 or d15b2 for almost nothing, then use the tranny u have now and search for a good tranyn wtih lsd...
 
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im in ashland about 2 housr away and ive got quite a few b7 blocks and complete motors up here, everyone here is b-series so u shouldnt have a problem finding a d series for cheap...
 

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Worst Mechanic Ever!
EG
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Discussion Starter #12
jarvis606 said:
dude just get a d15b7 non vtec and use the block and your vtec head off your car, its just about like a d15b vtec but its going to be much cheaper, im sure u could find a d15b7 or d15b2 for almost nothing, then use the tranny u have now and search for a good tranyn wtih lsd...
I want to replace the head though. I let this engine go for almost 2 years now, I'm sure the head would require some serious work to run the way I want it to.

Even after all the reading, I still don't see the point of the D15 block and D16 head. Seems most people who do it are looking to turbo it, which is something I don't plan to do with this engine.

Thanks for the tips on the motors. If I can't find an online deal, I'll probably shoot up there and see what I can see.
 

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you might want to change the bearings in your transmission while it's out. It's probably old enough that if it doesn't need it now, it might a year or two down the line.

it's tricky for your first time, but luckily there's a nice post in the DIY forum with pics.
 

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find a shop that sells b-series... go hang out there and talk to the guys. I'm sure someone is getting rid of their d and will sell it to you for cheap.
 

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Worst Mechanic Ever!
EG
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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, new idea. Should I just get a used head and intake mani w/ all sensors? I think my bottom end should be fine.

Let me explain what I am fixing: It revs at idle. By revving, I mean a steady 1000 -> 1600 -> 1000 -> 1600, etc etc. It's smooth, exact, not eratic at all. Last engine I saw that on had to be replaced because my buddy and his dad couldn't figure it out. I'm thinking it's something in the intake system, but the way the engine runs (rough), I think the head is fouled, or will need work. But my block and bottom end should be fine, right?

I think I'm going to pull the head this weekend, see how my cylinder walls and pistons look. If my dad (DIY mechanic) says it doesn't look right, I'll replace engine. But, if everything looks fine, I think I'll pick up all new sensors, intake mani+TB, and used head. Sounds like it'll be a junkyard weekend for me...

Ideas? I'm just having trouble locating a used D16Z6 and around here people junk cars when they are junk, so I'd rather not get a junkyard engine unless it's in good shape. We'll see, I'm open to suggestions.
 
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Sounds good.....I'd consider rebuilding the head if you have people who have the know-how. If you've done the compression and leak down tests, hopefully you'll be able to pinpoint the problems. Fully equipped z6 intake mani's should be well in supply, I got mine for $40
 

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an idle going up and down is usually just a simple vacuum leak... have you checked all your vacuum hoses for a leak yet?? If you're not getting a check engine light, then it most likely is a vacuum leak. If you can't find one by inspecting... start the engine and spray some intake cleaner at all the hoses one by one. If your engine starts to bog or rev more then the cleaner is getting into the engine... there's your leak.

if it idles really rough, too.. then you have to go through and replace all the standard things... like spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter. All very cheap things to do... which you can swap over to the new engine anyways if they don't help. Try seafoam to clean out the engine, too. Another thing to check for a bad idle is to clean the IACV on the back of the manifold. Just unbolt it and spray some carb or intake cleaner on the grill...
 

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Haysoos said:
Neg. Proper mechanic supervision and internet are all I need. I want to do ALL work myself, as far as engine goes. I want to learn how to do all maintenance on it and I think this will be a great time to learn a lot of stuff.
That is awesome, I say go for it! You'll definately learn so much if you swap it yourself! I'm actually looking into getting another z6 or d15b to build up and eventually swap into my ej...and I want to do as much of the work as possible! So, far I've only done the basic bolt on's, so I'm looking forward to this so much! Good luck with your's and keep us updated on it!! Take pics if possible of the process!
 

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Worst Mechanic Ever!
EG
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Discussion Starter #20
makku said:
an idle going up and down is usually just a simple vacuum leak... have you checked all your vacuum hoses for a leak yet?? If you're not getting a check engine light, then it most likely is a vacuum leak. If you can't find one by inspecting... start the engine and spray some intake cleaner at all the hoses one by one. If your engine starts to bog or rev more then the cleaner is getting into the engine... there's your leak.

if it idles really rough, too.. then you have to go through and replace all the standard things... like spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter. All very cheap things to do... which you can swap over to the new engine anyways if they don't help. Try seafoam to clean out the engine, too. Another thing to check for a bad idle is to clean the IACV on the back of the manifold. Just unbolt it and spray some carb or intake cleaner on the grill...
Thanks for the suggestions, but I've already checked for a vacuum leak, none found. Replaced the IACV and that didn't help. Already replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The engine is getting too much air. This saturday is my last ditch effort before buying a new engine. Apparently there is a valve on the bottom side of the intake that lets air in when the engine is cold. I've heard of people with the same problem I have simply pulling that off, tightening a screw inside, and bam, fixed. Doubt it, but I figure it can't hurt to try.
 
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