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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 92 DX D15B7 5 speed With about 226,000 miles on the ODO. Probably paid too much, but I needed some wheels to get me from A-B and I want to learn more about wrenching on cars.. My hopes for this build is to get a decent running fuel efficient car that can handle some gravel forest roads once in a while, so a suspension lifting may be in order down the road.

Right now I'm just trying to get the car mechanically sound. The PO bought it from someone who had it sitting for awhile, they did some work on it, but lost interest. When I did the test drive, it had a cold lag and would misfire badly at lower RPM in 1st and second gear. The exhaust leak was loud enough to resonate my brain cells a bit, and it was smoking some. It was dark so I couldn't see if was white or black smoke. Engine was cold when it was first started when I got there, and it was idling smoothly surprisingly.

Currently it will start, run, and drive so that's a plus. From a quick once over suspension wise it needs a few suspension bushings and an alignment, 1 engine mount is missing at the bottom of the engine, and the other one has cracked. The Top two engine mounts appear to be in good condition though.

Mechanically I found a few things a bit off right away. First off was that stupid loud exhaust leak. One 12mm bolt at the rear flange connecting the main pipe to the muffler solved that... It has a big old CAI, the breather hose for it was missing. I rigged one up and got fixed. It was intermittently starting, found that the signal wire on the starter had popped off because the blade connector wasn't all that tight. The PCV hose is collapsed, and the old PCV valve was stuck shut or open not really sure which but I replaced it already. I do need to replace both the upper and lower hose for the PCV because the top on is too soft and collapses, and the bottom one is cracked around the spot where it seats into the intake. If anyone has leads on finding these hoses that one be greatly appreciated, as my local parts store didn't turn up anything.

I got oil / coolant to replace each. I think its burning oil, test drive would blow black smoke under hard load in lower gears, and I l know it's leaking oil around the engine. So I picked up a valve cover and dizy seal kit. I have not done either yet, because I wanted to get your feedback on what to check next.

Because its getting shitty gas milage, and burning oil, I was suspecting bad compression numbers, or plugs. The plugs looks okay and newer. a little bit of oil on the top of the threads was found when removing them, but they were the right color and not super filthy. Compression numbers showed 150 across all 4 cylinders, tested with engine warm, dizy disabled, ECU fuse pulled, and pedal to the floor.

Not really sure If I should order valve seals in attempt to cut down Oil smoking / consumption or wait until I can get PCV hoses? Do I need to do both valve seals and guides, or should I be going a totally different direction?

Thanks!!
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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take the pcv hose into the store with you, and ask for some hose from the back the same i.d. 2 feet should be more than enough

black smoke is fuel. white is coolant, blue is oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So the smoke is definitely more blue than black, and it smells like Oil burning.

I spent some time tonight clearing off off the residual oil sludge on the exterior of the engine, letting it run and looked for leaks didn't see anything coming out around the top end and dizzy. Thinking more about the PCV valve, I found a chunk of hose to replace the section the top hose connection between the PCV valve and the intake. I still haven't done and oil change so when I go to do that I want to pull of the breather box, and clean it. I've read that you should replace the O-ring on this, it looks like there's a grommet or o-ring on the side of the box that connects to the to the plastic connector part of the lower hose, the other side of this hose has a molded grommet that seats into the intake, which is cracked around the intake part.

A faulty PCV valve / breather system will cause some blue smoke? It still seams to run and idle fairly smooth. best source for these parts, oem honda the only option?
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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I just use 1/2 fuel/emmisions hose on the breather side of the PCV valve, but I think there is a ford molded one in the Help! section that can be trimmed a bit on one side and serve as a replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm getting some conflicting info on this setup the 92 DX with the D15b7, the old PCV that I pulled out was 90 degrees and mounted in the intake near and above the oil filter, it went into a rubber hose that had a square shape, When i was pulling the PCV I just thought that was a grommet, and ending up pulling the whole lower hose off the breather box, that's when I found that the square end of this hose was cracked. I've read some of these are straight or 90, some of them mount to the black breather box directly and others mount above the oil filter in the intake pass thru hole.

I live outside of town and this rig is my only source of transportation at the moment. So I've got to stage my tear downs in a somewhat timely fashion. Just want to make sure I'm getting it put back together right.

Font Auto part Fashion accessory Circle Bicycle part


Found a link in one of the stickies, thank you!!

It looks like I need #4 called : Tube A, PCV - Honda (11855-P07-000)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Todays round of wrenching included unsticking the front brakes, as it turns out the slide pins were gummed up. After a thurough cleaning the brakes are no longer dragging! De-gunked the engine bay so I can getter a better idea on where oil is leaking.... little bit coming out around the top of the valve cover around the dizzy, and oil pressure sensor. Fairly clean behind the intake until you get to the oil filter region. Filter was kinda loose was able to give it another turn of snugness by hand.

Wanted to do a test drive again and get some Marvel Mystery Oil and engine restore, along with trying to track down PVC and breather box goodies.

The car is absolutely smoking way less. I can blip the throttle past 3k and don't get any smoke. Didn't even have to top it off with oil this time after getting home. I'm just getting noises from the front end. Not engine wise, going around right hand corners seemed to bring it out the most, kind of a grinding sound. I checked the wheels a couple times while driving and the drivers side front wheel was pretty freaking hot, the passenger side was warm, and the rears cold. The bearing makes sense I thought I could hear grinding sounds when driving slow with the window down. So I jacked it up when I got home to verify the brakes were still not dragging and creating heat. all good here. There's some drag spinning the drivers front wheel but not the passengers.

I bought a bearing from Napa for like $45, Should I hold off and get a cheapy amazon kit, maybe one I don't have to screw around with pressing and pulling bearings? I've done bearings on motorcycles before but haven't done car wheel bearings like this yet.

Progress!!! This car sure is fun to drive even with the jacked up alignment / suspension / bearings lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The steering gear box is grinding a bit when turning the wheels while jacked up. Are these pretty much non serviceable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The wheels are also pretty hard to turn left and right too. When done while it’s jacked up, indications that somethings up with the gear box? I though I was hearing grinding and scraping noises around that area from inside the car while driving.
 
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