91 Si.....335,000 miles strong

15758 Views 167 Replies 50 Participants Last post by Whoshot, Oct 22, 2015

2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · Oct 29, 2012 (Edited)

Got this little beast from my wifes parents. They've had it as the daily beater for years. Sad part of it all is they run a goat farm and this little car saw at least 30 miles of dirt and gravel roads a day.....every day....for close to 12 years. Im bringing it back to its cleaner, asphault loving, auto-crossable glory piece by piece!

The day I drove it 567 miles home from their house.

Clean clean clean!

Left side has been wiped down, right side untouched.

Tail lights were filled with mud/dirt on the inside and hazed over on the outside. Hit em wityh the waterhose inside and headlight restore kit on the outside......

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2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #41 · Mar 28, 2013 (Edited)

Thanks guys!!!

Really need a wiring harness now. Wires on this one are old and breaking.

SnailPowered

· #42 · Mar 28, 2013

That's awesome! I'm working on building the D15B7 out of my 90 CRX into a mini-me high compression engine. Can't wait to hear how it goes when you get it all together!

2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #43 · Mar 28, 2013

I was looking at your thread too Snail. Good stuff!

NOSAJ

· #44 · Mar 28, 2013

like it!

so what wheels and tires are you considering?

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2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #45 · Mar 28, 2013

NOSAJ said:
like it!

so what wheels and tires are you considering?

Thanks man! As for wheels and tires, I have no idea. For money's sake, I might just paint the spokes on these gunmetal and rock them for a while. I hate em, but they are functional and in really good shape....really light weight too.

Water based paint pen from Michaels craft store.....best idea ever for remembering the "to do" list for big projects.

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b16racereg6

· #46 · Mar 29, 2013

Nice

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2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #47 · Mar 29, 2013

So after the ZC has been sitting in the car for a couple of days now, theres an ugly shiney spot on the driveway under the car. Damnit. Oh well, new oil pan gasket time. Still tracking down an engine harness, so in the mean time, Ill do the gasket.

2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #48 · Apr 1, 2013

Harness issue getting handled. Oil leak is getting investigated tomorrow since im back in town from oir Easter weekend trip.

95civicexjdm

· #49 · Apr 1, 2013

It's awesome to see a farm car so clean. What coilovers are those though and how's the ride with them

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netpsyche

· #50 · Apr 1, 2013

looks nice

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2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #51 · Apr 1, 2013

95civicexjdm said:
It's awesome to see a farm car so clean. What coilovers are those though and how's the ride with them

THANKS!

They are just some crappy flea-bay $40 coilovers. It rides like pure poop, handles like its on rails. It needs new shocks all around. The stock springs were sagging to the drivers sides so I swapped them out first thing. at least its level now. Ill continue to upgrade the suspension once the motor is good.

2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #52 · Apr 2, 2013

OKAAAAAYYYYY.....So, Went to move the distributor to the new motor and theres a couple of questions. Once I pulled it from the old motor, I noticed one of the two teeth that engage the cam is straight up missing, broken off. It still engages the distributor, but Im not sure I wanna trust it. If I cant find an A6 or ZC distributor, what others are compatible?

2nd, how do I know which way to line it up. Its either gunna be 180* off or right on. I searched but didnt find a definitive answer to lining up the distributor.

Thanks guys.

40MPGd15b7

· #53 · Apr 2, 2013

It won't sit in properly if its out 180.

Line up the lines on the dizzy, and set cam to tdc

si-hatch86

· #54 · Apr 2, 2013

pics of what your talkin about please and 2nd when the motor is at tdc take cap off and put rotor at 1 and you should be good to go

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2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #55 · Apr 2, 2013

si-hatch86 said:
pics of what your talkin about please .....

Ill take a picture tonight after work, but if youve seen the two keys on the back side of the distributor that engage the slots in the cam, one of them is broken off completely, and the other is broken in half.....Ill snag a picture tonight though.

Can that little piece be replaced or do I need a whole new distributor?

si-hatch86 said:
..... when the motor is at tdc take cap off and put rotor at 1 and you should be good to go

Thanks!!!

As for TDC, I know the dipstick in #1 trick, but that only works every other time its up. On the crank pulley there are two different sets of marks. Any tips on which set of marks I use for finding TDC?

si-hatch86

· #56 · Apr 2, 2013

for tdc i use one of 2 ways. either the dipstick in and cam at tdc then bolt everything up and go. never had an issue with that way or if i can remove the crank pulley i remove the pulley and set the timing using the mark on the oil pump and lower crank timing gear.

2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #57 · Apr 2, 2013

F***ing Awesome. Easy stuff. Thanks!

2000redCIVICsi

Discussion Starter · #58 · Apr 3, 2013

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HiProfile

· #59 · Apr 3, 2013

Lol, looks like someone dropped it or forced it into the head 180 off. It takes very little power to turn, so the tabs are needed more for keeping it accurate.

You can remove the circular retaining clip around the middle, slide the pin out, and replace it with another obd0 distributor's "donut". They may even be the same as an obd1/2 unit, but I wouldn't count on it.

Important: If you look at it closely, the centerline of the tabs are slightly shifted off the centerline of the distributor shaft. There is the machined line on the 'fatter' side, and someone used a sharpie to note orientation previously. When I insert it, I take the cap off and spin the rotor until it slips in. I get it very close so it takes half a second.

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si-hatch86

· #60 · Apr 3, 2013

HiProfile said:
Lol, looks like someone dropped it or forced it into the head 180 off. It takes very little power to turn, so the tabs are needed more for keeping it accurate.

You can remove the circular retaining clip around the middle, slide the pin out, and replace it with another obd0 distributor's "donut". They may even be the same as an obd1/2 unit, but I wouldn't count on it.

Important: If you look at it closely, the centerline of the tabs are slightly shifted off the centerline of the distributor shaft. There is the machined line on the 'fatter' side, and someone used a sharpie to note orientation previously. When I insert it, I take the cap off and spin the rotor until it slips in. I get it very close so it takes half a second.

x2

this guy pretty much said what i was gonna say and added alot more useful info than i would have...

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