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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 91 Civic hatch with a D16A6 that we race circle track with. In the off season we bored the cylinder to 75.5 put in Acura 11.5 - 1 pistons bisi moto stage 2 cam and upgraded to obd 1 computer and distributor. Put it all together and we can't get 15 laps out of it, After 15 laps when you nail the gas there is just no power, it bogs. Pull to the infield wait a few seconds and it starts up and the driver just drives off the track like nothing happened. We have done a list of things to try and fit it.

Tried different ECU
distributer
new fuel pump
new fuel filter
new plugs
new wires
new alternator
new battery
new fuel pressure reg.
also tried TPS
IACV

We even took it to a shop, they verified the problem but couldn't find the answer either. We have a fast car but can't finish a race HELP PLEASE.
 

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your doing better than I was when I had the same issue, I could make it around 4 or 5 laps so lets say 2 miles before my coil would put out half the volts and the car would lose all power and sounded like I put a 100 foot tail pipe on it, I would concentrate on or in the dizzy, possible arcing inside the unit even though the coil was new and looked perfect was what we determined on my dizzy.
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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Problem 1: Useless OBD1 conversion. No mention of tuning.
Problem 2: Lack of instrumentation. You have not mentioned any temperature specifics. Water temps? Oil temps? Oil pressure? Those are the three most important gauges.
Problem 3: No mention of what ECU is running the engine. If it is a stock P06, that is a huge issue. If it is a stock P28, that's even worse.

Recommendations:
Go back to a PM6.
Check your IAT and ECT sensors via the troubleshooting procedures listed in the FSM.
Provide more specific information and, if necessary, install instrumentation in order to have actual data to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's not giving me any codes, I had a tunner shop do a dyno tune on it to set it up and the water and oil temps are good and so is the pressure. I didn't mention them because they are all fine, sorry. That's what makes this so weird.
 

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It's not giving me any codes, I had a tunner shop do a dyno tune on it to set it up and the water and oil temps are good and so is the pressure. I didn't mention them because they are all fine, sorry. That's what makes this so weird.
well something isnt fine. so what ecu are you running? chipped? or socketed with a emulator of some sorts?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ecu is socketed, after he pulls to the infield the car starts and runs after a few seconds, however you not hard on the gas then when you pulling of the track. I will have to check to see exactly what ECU it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I took the cover off the dizzy and noticed there was no plastic cover over the coil. I called the shop that sold it to me and was told it wasn't needed. Could this be causing something to arc out or is it just a dust cover?
 

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93 Legend L Coupe.
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Probably not.

Time to hot plate check your ignition components. Heat them up to engine temp and check them against the FSM. If they are really significantly wonky hot, then they are bad, even if you have a new dizzy. Depending on what brand dizzy it is, it wouldn't surprise me if it failed already.

Is your tuner familiar with tuning for track use? If he's just a normal tuner, meaning tuning for power or even street tuning, the tune is NOT something I consider valid for track racing.

(I tune enduro racers that go for up to 24hrs at a time.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The tuner Races also, and has fast cars that perform well and years of experience so I am not worried about that. I haven't ruled it out but they have a good rep. I will start heating things up and see what I find.
 

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It really seems like your being vague for the sake of being vague, so let me help you out.
It's a hornet, not a super late model. The lowest of the low, I have finished 2nd at tracks that didn't even tech me. 80% chance no one from your track will ever see this nor does anyone care. Every car out there is cheating in one form or another and if you ain't even finishing a race then placing in a position that would allow a tech to touch your car is in the distant future therefor being vague and not answering simple questions is hurting more than helping.

What ecu are you running, after several attempts we have learned that your ecu is socketed, wich is wonderful news but what's in there is the question of the day, hondata, demon???

I am still pointing towards coil in the dizzy, but I think the beav is right with the useless obd swap and I am wondering if its something along with that, did you buy a jumper harness or macgyver your way there, several years ago I had issue with the shields surrounding the dizzy wires going to the bay. It was a no start issue, but did lead to a similar problem later after build heat it would hesitate then die.
 
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