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Hello everybody as the title says I have broken 3 driverside axles on my civic, all during left turns, all broken at the joint on the transmission side, all seem to slip out of the joint, creating a really bad grinding sound.
Now I'm not too sure where to start with this so I'll try to give as much information as possible.
Heres a short timeline of my ownership of this car:
I figured the first axle failure to be just normal wear over time, as the other cv boots are torn with old grease everywhere around. Only difference with this failure is that the axle shaft actually detached from the end that sits in the transmission.
The second failure happend durring a fairly light, uphill left turn at an intersection. This time the rubber boot held the axle shaft to the inward joint, but was twisted from spinning, and was unable to put any power down. It should be noted that my alignment was horrendous, the steering wheel sat 90 degrees while going straight and there was alot of toe-out.
3rd failure happened durring a u-turn with the steering wheel at full lock. It broke in the same way as the second, but I was able to put power down so I went to work and back, about 26 miles. This time I had the alignment pretty dialed in just needed to get the wheel to be straighter and reduce the toe-out. the picture shows the car going straight:
I think it should be noted that when I installed the new steering rack I centered it to the steering wheel, as in, from being straight it takes the same amount of turning to full lock on either side. The picture shows what I mean, the wheel at full lock either side:
I believe what happened was the driver side wheel was turned too far from the bad alignment and pulled the shaft out of the inward joint.
Heres how the axel looked before I took it to work
Now I'm not too sure where to start with this so I'll try to give as much information as possible.
Heres a short timeline of my ownership of this car:
Bought car for 1200, 290,000 miles.
Put about 3k Miles on it
Axle broke in the manner described above.
Buy and install new Axels, Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Wheel Bearings and Hubs, and a Manual Steering Rack
Axle broke 3 Miles into test drive.
Replaced axle and filled 3 motor mounts with Loctite PL x3 Construction Adhesive.
Axle broke after maybe 120 Miles
Now the car doesn't have the original engine. It's still a D15B2 and (only) has ~250,000 miles. The engine is missing alot of stuff like radiator fan wiring and front transmission mount.I figured the first axle failure to be just normal wear over time, as the other cv boots are torn with old grease everywhere around. Only difference with this failure is that the axle shaft actually detached from the end that sits in the transmission.


The second failure happend durring a fairly light, uphill left turn at an intersection. This time the rubber boot held the axle shaft to the inward joint, but was twisted from spinning, and was unable to put any power down. It should be noted that my alignment was horrendous, the steering wheel sat 90 degrees while going straight and there was alot of toe-out.

3rd failure happened durring a u-turn with the steering wheel at full lock. It broke in the same way as the second, but I was able to put power down so I went to work and back, about 26 miles. This time I had the alignment pretty dialed in just needed to get the wheel to be straighter and reduce the toe-out. the picture shows the car going straight:

I think it should be noted that when I installed the new steering rack I centered it to the steering wheel, as in, from being straight it takes the same amount of turning to full lock on either side. The picture shows what I mean, the wheel at full lock either side:


I believe what happened was the driver side wheel was turned too far from the bad alignment and pulled the shaft out of the inward joint.
Heres how the axel looked before I took it to work

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