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Trying to decide on front rotors for road racing (SCCA), mine are pretty worn, slotted or drilled not allowed. Guy i bought it from said cheap ones were ok? Any of those better than others? I am using Hawke Blue pads.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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brembo blanks from autozone. /thread
 

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^ x 2 ^ run vent tubes if you can, for those long runs.
 

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brembo blanks from autozone. /thread
Brembo blanks and Hawk HP+ pads give some SERIOUS stopping power. Only downside is dust and noise with that pad.

EDIT: Sorry, I see you are on the blues; that's going to be even more aggressive. You are going to burn through duralast rotors very quickly with those pads. The Brembos are worth the money.
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
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Centric High Carbon Rotors

And NO, if you are road racing a car DO NOT USE HP+ pads. Those are damn street pads.

If you want to use Hawk, look at the DTC compounds. If you want to use Carbotech, look at the XP compounds.
 

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We run Hawk 9012 (Blue) pads on our little 91 hatch rally car with the Integra DA brake/spindle swap and eat a set of front rotors every event or 2. The rears last most of a season. Most of this wear comes from heavy left foot braking while under power. These pads are the most abrasive that Hawk makes, but they have the best initial cold bite we could find. On stage, there is little time for the brakes to come up to temp and they cool off during transit. We just live with eating rotors.

For your racing , you might look at Hawk DTC-60 pads. They don't make the 70 series for this car or the 60 series for the rear. You can run the 50 series in the rear to give a bit of front bias. You could also run the Hawk Blue 42 pads. These are the updated 9012 compound. We don't have any experience with these. EBC makes a decent pad as well. However, their Orange, race oriented pad is not available for your car. The EBC yellows are popular with some people in our group.

If you don't want to be eating rotors, then the DTC-60/50 combo probably would work out the best. Some friends run the Carbotech XP20s and really like them. They run an open class subbie (heavier and lots faster). We haven't burned through the 9012's yet (3 events), but will probably go to the Carbotech XP20s when we do to slow down the rotor replacement rate.
 

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I just realized that your post was about rotors, not pads. With the 9012's you will eat rotors faster than with other pads. You can go 2 ways here. You can run cheap rotors and replace them often or you can run higher quality (more spendy) rotors and not replace them as often. We go the first route as we burn up front rotors often. This is due to having the gas to the floor and controlling oversteer with the brakes.

In circuit racing, you probably would do well with better rotors. Brembo makes a pretty good performance rotor. However, they are pretty spendy. Frozenrotors make a good cryo frozen rotor, but they are also spendy. Centric makes a hi-carbon rotor with directional venting that is reasonably priced. They might be a good choice since your pads will be hard on them.

Good luck with the racing. It's pretty addictive.
 

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I see nothing naturally aspirated here...
But seriously, I love HP+ on the street, but its true, the dust. And the dust is highly corrosive. Ask my Titanium color 5Zigen FN01R-C Hot Versions...
 

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I've always just ran whatever rotor I can get at the auto parts store and hawk blues. Was ITA now F Prod. But brembo blanks should be a more consistent quality. But cheap ones for $25 I just pitch em if they get bad.

I've never bent a set of hawk blues but you do need to pitch them by the time the groove is gone or the knock back is too bad.
 

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If you are looking to endurance race your car, I'd recommend looking at something made with a better metal than the "cheap" blanks.
By "cheap", I am referring to not spend the money on driled slotted rotors that are two times the cost of a good blank. You don't have to tell me twice about cheap rotors. Learned the hard way with my H2 car this fall. My NSX calipers and DTC-70 pads destroyed a pair of brand new rotors in 4 sessions....

 

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Tape-R taper/driver
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Nice, you made your own slotted rotors!

We've had very good luck with the Centric High Carbon rotors (about $25/rotor for the DA knuckles). They lasted between 36-48 hours of racing (2-3 races) only showing signs of heat checking.
 

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By "cheap", I am referring to not spend the money on driled slotted rotors that are two times the cost of a good blank. You don't have to tell me twice about cheap rotors. Learned the hard way with my H2 car this fall. My NSX calipers and DTC-70 pads destroyed a pair of brand new rotors in 4 sessions....

I have never seen a set of brand new rotors with so much rust on them!
 
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