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Registered
1990 civic 4 door LX
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2,121 Posts
The code 16 is a random one to me but I'm wondering. What did they do to the head. Or didn't. I bet valve seals in your case will be the problem... heating issues or anything? Sounds like a tuner that may be a little to fresh to be tuning cars...
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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16,355 Posts
random codes usually is from a loose connection or cold solder joint.

smoke under decel, like... you decelerate then hit the gas and it puffs smoke? or it just smokes are you engine brake?

sounds like valve seals if it did it w/o the turbo as well
 

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Formally D_Tuned
97 civic HX
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2,884 Posts
yeah the shop sounds fishy but does not seem like the smoke would be there fault from what i see so far.

you could unbolt your exhaust mani and take a look at the valve stems with a flashlight and see if they got oil residue on them to check for a bad seal
 

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Registered
1990 civic 4 door LX
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2,121 Posts
I'm curious as to why the hondata failed? Suprising if it worked before and that random code is a horrible one to have.
 

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Formally D_Tuned
97 civic HX
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2,884 Posts
sounds like the tuner does not have a license to tune hondata and tried to wing it.

s100 and 200 require a user license to use
 

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Registered
Joined
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88 Posts
you seem to know what your talking about & dealing with. maybe next time, do the rebuild, engine building yourself (except machining of course), run a basesmap that can take you to a reputable tuner that was refered to by alot of people/users. look for lots of feedback about a specific mechanic.

So, say you've built the engine. if there's a problem, you may know the issue a little more clearer, & no-ones playing the blame game...
 

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Banned
Joined
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1,137 Posts
well i think you should approach the owner of the shop and request a partial refund. the work done may have had the hours put in, but was not done in the right way/manner.

i'd replace the valve stem seals as insurance. and i would be sure to put a decent load on the motor to try and seat the rings better, 4th gear pulls and letting the engine break after work well, but i dont think they're going to seat as the cross hatch from honing is usually wore away after 20 or so miles.

it sounds like there is a possible wiring issue with your car if both ECUs have fried, ask them what they had touched. Its possible they wired your resistor box wrong or the resistor box itself is bad or they used the wrong kind, IE a DSM one will cause problems.

anymore help just ask away man.
 

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Registered
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857 Posts
One thing came into my mind. Is the engine block or thermostat housing painted, corroded, dirty or something? You know, ECU is grounded to thermostat housing. Two thick wires fixed with short M6 screw. It is very important to keep that connection and surfaces between the thermostat housing (cap and housing itself), and housing and block clean. I prefer to sand those surfaces (or atleast rub with wire brush) and clean with strong solvent (acetone, brake cleaner) just before assembly to remove as much oxidation as possible.

Next make sure your engine is grounded well too. Transmission, head, valve cover atleast. Also the block-tranny surfaces should be clean, because engine block is grounded to battery from tranny case as stock.

Bad groundings can and will cause vicious electrical issues that can be beyond human imagination.
 

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Registered
97 honda coupe
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7,611 Posts
I would be really angry at the shop owner roll up in my broke ass shit and start parading it around showing the customers that this is the work that came out of there shop. See if that changes anything.
 

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Registered
88 sedan DX
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268 Posts
Hey dude I am local to Portland myself and am very curious what shop you took it to was? I'd love to give you my two cents if its the shop I think it was.
 

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Registered
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
thanks guys for the words of encouragement on this. Its been a headache for sure none the less. I am somewhat exhausted from all the back and forth with the owner of the shop, but justice will be had over this, let alone the shop owner is the one who assembled the whole motor and tuned the car.

I should of been way more cautious over my choice of shop and stuck to the only shop I've delt with in the pdx of track forged those guys are amazing, rather thought it would be ok to use this other shop on the forum thread and support of this shop. Now I am stuck with a new motor that burns and smokes oil, even after i put another 140 miles on it yesterday and today. So 350 miles and still ring issues.

I am going to contact the shop owner tomorrow and see what they have to say after thinking on their f up over the weekend. Hopefully they realize this isn't something to be proud of and will do their part to make it right.

update soon

shop is in east portland, Or and one the most refereed to shops on the forums in the past 1yr of so, give name at end of this ordeal.

Every engine builder makes a mistake, but to not own up to it is pretty weak and blame the customer is the last thing to do on other irrelevant issues.
 

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I
95 Civic coupe
Joined
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3,984 Posts
my suggestion, GET REAL INJECTORS!

if i owned a tuning shop, i would NEVER tune a car with dsm injectors!!!

every single dsm injector is hit or miss! you never know what you are getting!

spend the xtra $$$ on rc's or precisions! get something that is made for your honda... not something made by chrysler/mitsubishi.
 

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d-series Member
Joined
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3,134 Posts
my suggestion, GET REAL INJECTORS!

if i owned a tuning shop, i would NEVER tune a car with dsm injectors!!!

every single dsm injector is hit or miss! you never know what you are getting!

spend the xtra $$$ on rc's or precisions! get something that is made for your honda... not something made by chrysler/mitsubishi.
why not just get the dsm's properly cleaned and flow tested?
 
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