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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, ok, not quite what I lead you to believe...but freakin' sweet none the less. I drove 2 and a half hours north on Cincy in my little hatch to pull this motor/trans. The return trip with said motor, many tools, and a compressor took almost 4 hours. The pics say it all...

Whats that? A little cammed vtec action goin' on in the back seat??!


Another shot of this awesomeness



I have been trying to get my wife to understand my desire to build a honda...she can't wrap her head around why I am hellbent on spending so much money on a 18 year old car. Lets me honest, if all of us here were rational, we would be asking the same thing.

Mod list this far:

DC sports header

stage 2 comp/zex cam

pics coming tomorrow!

To be purchased in the coming week:

Rywire all encompassing wiring harness. 500 bucks, but it has got to be worth it! Look at what it does!
since my car is a 90, it converts obd0 to obd1 for a p28 ecu
dpfi to mpfi
non vtec to vtec
obd2 dizzy, alternator, injectors to obd1
plus its a tuck harness, so nice and invisible! A local shop was going to charge me several hundred just to sort out the wiring, so I can do it myself for the same cost, plus its not a hack job!


Crower springs/retainers

head port and polish

new, slightly stiffer than stock mounts and hydro to cable conversion

tranny rebuild/reseal and new clutch.

possibly tearing into the bottom end...depends on if I can contain my excitement. I'm going for n/a driveabillity and once I get my ducks in a row I'll be looking at a turbo set up.
While its n/a I'm shooting for 150-160 at the crank
When I go turbo (hopefully by spring!) I'm going to around 230 at the wheels...I came to that nice round number after running a few power to weight ratios. This will put me into corvette power to weight territory. Nuff' said.

I'll update as things progress. As much as I want to do a complete tear down/rebuild, my budget only goes so far. I will say that I drove the 96 civic that this motor was in before we pulled it...and it pulled like a freight train! Maybe thats because I've been chuggin' along with my lil ole b15b7 :3dbiggrin:

Any thoughts, comments, questions, post'em up. I'm always willing to listen to advice, just don't be upset it I don't take it!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You should have seen us loading it into the car! The barn was more of a lean to...the roof was to low so the cherry picker kept hitting the roof trusses. The floor was crushed gravel and the cherry picker had the hardened steel rollers. You can imagine how difficult that made things. Then trying to hold the hatch open (becuase of course the shocks are shot) while manuevering the engine in there without messing anything up...it was a mess. I'm bummed that I forgot to bring a camera with me for the pull!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So...whens the last time someone had a full drop in the back of a hatch...and then having to split the engine and tranny...while it was in the back of the car still. Anyways, wish I had taken pics, but in my excitement of getting things started I forgot. I will for sure document the build a bit better as I progress.
What is typical cost for a port and polish for you guys? One recommended machine shop (not a tuner shop) said he could do it for $225. I called the local tuner/performance shop and they said around 800 bucks....that seems like quite a difference to me, what gives?

Anyways, the goal is to build the head with the following: port and polish, stage two comp/zex cam, oem valves, titanium springs/retainers, dc header, and either stay with the y8 intake mani or go with another one. Go autoworks is doing a build right now that has a super sexy intake manifold...though he said it isn't available anymore.

I split the head and bottom end and was pleasantly surprised at the cylinder wall condition. The cross hatches were readily visible and the crank turned effortlessly. I'll take a pic of the piston tops to see what you guys think.

Also, I heard a couple snaps and pops as I loosened the head bolts, is that normal? I do not think the head has been off before as dry as the head gasket was...

I'll take pics tonight of progress so far.
 

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iv never had a full drop in a honda but i had one in the trunk of a buick centry..

and my opinion is that port and polish on a d series is kinda a waste of money
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got the goods a rollin'....the only thing slowing me down is Christmas shopping..and my darling durango's transmission (said very sarcastically) is dripping blood. So I'm sitting on go for the moment. Like I've heard a million times if your going to do something, do it right the first time.
Head:
titanium springs and retainers
comp/zex stage two cam
head port and polish(cost vs. benefit, is it worth it?)
dc header

block: bored .5mm over
pistons (tbd)
rings
rods (probably stock) remember my power goals are a max of 230 for this build.
C/R of as close to 10:1 as I can get without going over.

2.25-2.5 inch exhaust
motor mounts (or stiffer inserts for the stock mounts)

tranny check up and reseal
new clutch

all of that goodness is going to set me back about 2200 bucks (already have cam and header) for a good solid build all the way from the air intake to the exhaust and everything in between.
 

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turn up tha boost !
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welcome to the forum
It looks like a fun build in progress
good luck
if you need some help post it up


I personally want to recommend the common Vitara/FJ R Spec I beams for your set up
you won't regret it
it does have lower compression
but a N/A D-series probably won't be fast enough for ya

a 150-160 EF will only easily pull 14sec 1/4mile and high 13 sec w/ more practice and work

so you will be wanting a turbo setup
then 230 won't be enough

IT'S A BUG!
and the wifes (most of them) are the bug spray
 
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