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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
New mach one blue
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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mazda soul crystal red is pretty fucking sexy imo. but apparently they fucked up and have chipping issues lol.

and in 88 they had a "rio red" so it wouldn't be too out of the box
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
I've seen a few out that color, but not a huge red or orange fan myself. But it does look good
 
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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
I need a MIG welder lol.

I've been dealing with inner structure flex in the front end which leads the car to pull hard to the right sometimes under power. Other times it goes straight. Just makes the car feel shifty at speed under power. Thought it was alignment, but nope. So after a lot of searching and reading, I decided to do some minor seam welding to the front end. Specifically where the inner structure meets the A pillar door jam/unibody. Also hit the seams in the wheel well, then decided to put in "fender braces" as well. The car only makes 340 whp but the wagon's nose is taking it pretty hard. Add to that the Fortune Auto 500's hav 14k springs up front. Got some pics of the work, now on to paint prep. Plan on painting it again this summer.

Seam welding at the A pillar door jam:
138621


Added some beads of weld with the flux core welder we have at the farm:

138622


Then on to building the fender braces and installing them:

138623


138624


And then the finished product:

138626




Like I said, I need a decent MIG welder and the old globby mess would have looked better. I did grind them down and then laid out a better pass on each of the contact patches. Actually got a decent bond and laid down a passable bead of weld, but it wasn't easy lol. Took a lot of patience and working with the wire feed control. Either way, I'll have it back together and out to fully test it soon. Drove it a bit and already felt more stable. Also plan to build a front upper strut bar for it. Should I go for a welded 2 point, or go ahead and connect it to the firewall as well with a 3 point brace. Anyone with a wagon have thoughts on it?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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did yout try it negative on the trigger side and positive on the body side then turned the heat up a bunch?
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #107 · (Edited)
did yout try it negative on the trigger side and positive on the body side then turned the heat up a bunch?
I'd have to understand how to do that in order to try it lol. This was just a flux core 85 amp farmhand welder we have on the farm. I used it to do rust repair on the car when I first built it. It was this or the old Lincoln stick welder he has. I figured it would just burn holes in the thin frame metal. Basically this little welder has a high and low voltage setting and then a 10 speed wire feed control. For the thin parts it had to be on low and about 2-3 on the speed.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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where was your ground wired to?

flux core runs better when the stinger is ground and the positive is on the part youre welding.

and as per matt, laying the gun damn near parallel with the part youre welding and PUSHING the weld, wont blow holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
where was your ground wired to?

flux core runs better when the stinger is ground and the positive is on the part youre welding.

and as per matt, laying the gun damn near parallel with the part youre welding and PUSHING the weld, wont blow holes.
Ground was on a body bolt near by, and I did push the welds. Tougher to see, but it would lay down a bead that way instead of the popcorn mess, and no holes blown in.

And Matt actually set this machine up himself for us and welded a part of my exhaust with it, so it may be that way lol. And I just don't know it. He was down several years back when I first got the turbo on it and he helped with the tune then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
that's whats up. this is why I love this place lol
There are still remnants of what this place once was. So much collaboration and helping each other out. Miss the days when this place was really buzzing.

More updates to come on this car as I build a strut tower brace and then paint it again.

Thoughts on a 2 point vs a 3 point front strut bar?
 
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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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2 is easier to make and install.
3 is more rigid, but you have to sorta reinforce the firewall.
 
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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
2 is easier to make and install.
3 is more rigid, but you have to sorta reinforce the firewall.
My thought was to weld a thick plate onto the firewall that has bolt holes drilled and tapped into it, then I could bolt the two bars from the 3rd point to that bar thats welded onto the firewall. Wagons do not have bolt holes up there in the center, so I'd have to weld on whatever I use. ESP wants $300 for a couple strut bars, but since its summer and I'm strapped for cash, I'll be welding up my own. What I might do is start out with a 2 point and if we still have problems, then add the 3rd point of attachment. I don't care about the look or anything, this is specifically for functionality. Plan to start building it tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 · (Edited)
So........

Had to help my dad get his well going today. Helped him replace the water tank. Anyhow, so that took a good portion of the day but in the in between, I got a lot done. Decided I would just build strut bars. I had front and rear brackets from some old Ebay strut bars that I had run on the car before it had the ZC. If you are familiar with the DOHC ZC then you'll know that the throttle body has a dash pot on it that does not allow most strut bars to fit, even on a wagon. So I took the strut top brackets and modified them to work with some square tubing that we had on the farm. I shouldn't tell you all what it was in a former life, but it was a stall divider in the bathroom at my dad's church that they tore out and he kept it for the metal. So I chopped it up. Made my fender braces out of it, and then used the rest today to make strut tower braces front and rear. Both are now installed. I also had to space them up off of the strut tower just so everything would clear. I used some very heavy/chunky metal for that. Its an old racers trick to add a little weight over the struts/axles. Seems dumb, but I've seen it on many a circle track FWD car. Anyhow, on to the nitty gritty. I actually got the old flux core welder to lay some beads today. It also put out some chewing gum as well. I ground those down and did it again, until it laid at least a presentable bead. Went easy the second pass.

138644

thick stock for my spacers and a look at the part I reused from an old strut bar. Cut these out with a torch then ground the edges enough so they would sit flat. One ended up bigger than the other.
138645


138646


Tacked it together, then onto the bench it went to get fully welded, then prepped for paint.

138647


Then installed it.

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Then started on the rear bar.
138649


138650


138651

Reinforced the ends of the bracket, then painted this up and installed it as well. Forgot to snag a picture of it installed, but fitment was perfect.


I know the welds are not perfect, but hey, I'm not a professional welder, nor am I trying to sell this bar to someone else lol. The beads are solid and I got good penetration on the welds with this tubing. Glad I got them together. Now I can't wait to drive it to see how different it will feel. Hopefully no more death pull to the right!

Now, tomorrow and Saturday I plan to sand it down, do a bit of body work and get her prepped for a re-paint. Think I'm going to go back with Speedway Blue which is a Toyota color, and what I have on the car right now, just in a satin. I think this time it'll go back base/clear and we will go for a shine.
 

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I'm so proud of you ..:)
I felt you would be, this has all the Robgoof Engineering Inc. hallmarks that make your work world renowned :)


Soul, we've missed you for a year! Glad to see you posting again.... hopefully we get a chance to meet up with our cars at some point this year, pending any falling trees....

The braces and strut bar are kick ass!
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
I felt you would be, this has all the Robgoof Engineering Inc. hallmarks that make your work world renowned :)


Soul, we've missed you for a year! Glad to see you posting again.... hopefully we get a chance to meet up with our cars at some point this year, pending any falling trees....

The braces and strut bar are kick ass!

Now to get it painted, the alignment updated and go rip it to see how the braces have impacted the feel of the car. Oh who am I kidding, I'm going to get it back together enough to rip it, then I'll break it back down for paint lol.

Got a lot done today. Repainted the window trim (needed some attention), painted the underside of the hood, adjusted the fenders, then remounted the hood and got it adjusted. Very happy with how all of that turned out. Pics to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
What an awesome build. Super inspirational!
Thanks! Another Canuck?!? It has been a long road, from a Swiss cheesed, $600 car to a 300 whp street sleeper. Now hopefully it will go straight lol.

Just passing through, or are you building a car as well?
 
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