Honda D Series Forum banner

61 - 80 of 104 Posts

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
old pads still look new. i would have run them another 13000..

but since you were in there anyway.
Thought about it, but had to switch out stuff to the replacement trailing arm, so I thought, Might as well do both sides. And with RockAuto selling Raybestos pads for $6 I couldn't say no. Wheel cylinders were like $4 a side on closeout. Left side had a minor leak on the cylinder. Just enough to gunk up the brake parts. Passenger side wheel cylinder had a rung off stud on it, so only one of two was holding it lol. Glad to replace the parts so I know that they are good.
 
  • Like
Reactions: robgoof

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
So these came in today (well technically I had to drive my happy A double S to the Fedex hub 40 miles away to get them). Probably be at least a week or two before I can get them installed though (coaching basketball eats all your time). So glad to finally get them in. Crazy that they come with a certificate/build sheet that is signed with a serial number.

135515
135516
135517
135518
135519
135520
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
All right, so today was a big day. I installed the Fortune Auto 500 coilovers and the Hard Race upper control arms. So all in all, it received new front wheel bearings, new lower ball joints, new upper control arms, and the new coilover setup today. Here are some pics of the days work:

Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers with 14k front and 8k rear springs. This is "bespoke" suspension. Meaning you call them, tell them everything about your car, and they hand build a set up for your car. So these are valved for the pressure of the spring and for the weight of the car. I decided to go 8 clicks from full soft on the front, and 10 clicks from full soft in the rear.

135568


Preloading the springs. Their manual says the fronts are 1/4" preload. So for these 7" springs that means 6 3/4" loaded height. The rears are different. They are no more than 1/8" preload. Basically just get the spring to where it won't move.

135569


Then lock in the ring with this Allen bolt.

135570



Also had to press in hubs today and this tool worked like magic for the wheel bearings in the earlier post and for the hubs today.

135571



Also used this tool to get the bearing race off of the hub. Can anyone spot what I'm using for the center in the second picture. Works pretty well for hubs. (Its a Honda part)

135572


135573
 
  • Like
Reactions: robgoof

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Now on to the install:

135574


135575


BEFORE:

135576



AFTER:

135577


So first impressions:


Holy Funkywinkerbeans batman!!!!


It was like a harsh, 2 horse wagon/buckboard like, bouncy tin can before. Now it rides smoother than my dads 2005 Mustang GT, and it feels like its on rails. I still have some alignment issues to take care of in the rear, but going around a super flat curve at 75 mph and it felt like it was on rails. Like I could've took it at 120 easily. It is definitely a night and day difference. I love the way it rides. I thought maybe it would be a little harsh because of the 14k/8k springs, but nope. The dudes at FA know what they are doing. It rides better than a new car. I'm stupid impressed with the product I got from FA. Hate that they are out of most peoples budgets for coilovers, but if you were wondering if they are actually worth it, my answer is a resounding yes. I've had a ton of different brands of coilovers. Back in the day on the F2D hatch I built, it had a set of 10k/8k Omnipower full body coilovers that were really good, especially in that car. Ive had Sk2, Ching Chong Meows, Tokico's (blue and white), Teins, and some others that I can't remember. Most of the major brands. These are in a different league from all of those. With a bit of chassis stiffening, and maybe a cage, I wouldn't be scared to take this car around any road course. Definitely going to hit VIR up in the Spring if they have a charity laps day or a Honda Track Day.
 

·
Registered
Sloppy Jalopy
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
very slick ! price doesn't seem much more than koniyellow/gc for prices in canada ,unless it is sold per coil over on their website then ,,ouch

so I'm going to guess your puller spacer is the c clip plug from a honda tranny ?
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
so I'm going to guess your puller spacer is the c clip plug from a honda tranny ?
And we have a winner! Was looking in the bolt pile for something to use to and saw that plug. Works perfectly. Already through it into the box with the tool.



Also, yeah, they are $1299 US. I priced Koni Yellows/GC at $1k, and I promise these feel better so far. I mean, this is literally the best that I've ever felt a Civic ride. I've been in a quite a few cars with yellows/GC's. And best of all, FA takes the guesswork out of it.



Plan to work on the Toe adjustments tomorrow, and then probably get it lined up. Got any recommendations on the alignment?

Here's what I'm thinking:

1.5 degrees negative camber and 1/8" toe out (1/16" per side) up front, and 1/16" toe in, 0 degrees camber in the rear.

Thoughts?
 
  • Like
Reactions: robgoof

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
135578


Got an alignment today, then turned the boost back up to 18 psi. Got the Ostrich to finally connect so I didn't have to keep burning chips until finished. Got everything a lot closer, pulls like a train, and rides like its on rails. Very happy with it all. Now I can finally detail it, and then start thinking about paint again. Think I should stay with the flat blue or go with a gloss color this time?
 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI
Joined
·
846 Posts
Man, all your other pictures from photobucket don't seem to be working. I've not actually seen any pictures of your engine bay yet!
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
135585


This is an old one when I first installed the ZC and turbo setup. Its quite a bit different now. I'll have to snag a few as an update.
 
  • Like
Reactions: drtalon123

·
MuthaFuckaUppa
2009 Civic Si Sedan
Joined
·
571 Posts
I have been looking at Forture Auto for my FA5. The price is not that bad when you factor in the service and quality.
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
I have been looking at Forture Auto for my FA5. The price is not that bad when you factor in the service and quality.
I agree. And honestly, the only "bad" part was the wait. Takes 4-5 weeks for them to assemble and ship them. Well worth it in my opinion at this point. They were a little stiff when I went down the road the other day when it was 40 degrees out. But nothing major at all even then. Call them up. They will do all of the math for you and figure up optimal spring rates for your specific car. Via weight, power, and specific usage. It really is a great deal.

And also on a side note, you're not building a kill dozer are you? Saw the quote in your signature.
 

·
MuthaFuckaUppa
2009 Civic Si Sedan
Joined
·
571 Posts
I agree. And honestly, the only "bad" part was the wait. Takes 4-5 weeks for them to assemble and ship them. Well worth it in my opinion at this point. They were a little stiff when I went down the road the other day when it was 40 degrees out. But nothing major at all even then. Call them up. They will do all of the math for you and figure up optimal spring rates for your specific car. Via weight, power, and specific usage. It really is a great deal.

And also on a side note, you're not building a kill dozer are you? Saw the quote in your signature.
Whats it to you, ATF?
135586
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
HAHAHHAHA. Love the Mando reference!~
 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI
Joined
·
846 Posts
Soul, what power level are you at right now, or have you only been using a butt dyno so far? What injectors/fuel pump/fuel type are you currently running? Do you have cams?

No HG issues yet with the CSS block on 18 PSI?

I'm only asking because I turned mine back down to 15 when I got back to my driveway from previous dyno session. When my rebuild is finished, I'm contemplating my 'street tune' boost level limit on E85 before bringing it to the dyno, and I'll probably bring things down to 10 because of the added cam to keep power levels under 300 whp.

My original street tune made 205whp on gate pressure, 6PSI at intake manifold with stock cam, so I don't want too much power right off the bat with the added cam until I can see those numbers on a dyno. I hate trying to dial things in completely blind in a performance setting, especially timing. I know I'll be safer on E85 but it's still nice to see the changes on a graph rather than seat of the pants.

I will be honest, I cant tell the difference between 250whp and 280whp with my butt dyno haha they are both fast as F in a light car on the street.
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
Yes, I have cost myself one head gasket after the CSS. I fixed a fairly large boost leak and was too foolish to think the tune would be fine. Went out for a test hit, heard detonation, immediately backed out but before I finished the mile back to the shop on the farm, I could smell the sweet smell of death and there was a little white smoke. So I yanked the head, and put on a new gasket. Just scorched the gasket a bit. Cylinder walls and pistons looked great. No problems since, but I did do a lot of preventive maintenance right after that. Changed manual boost controllers from a turbonetics to the Go Fast Bits Atomic MBC, got a new rod end for the waste gate actuator that was the proper length, changed around some of my air to water intercooler setup to be more efficient, added an adjustable FPR, and then started tuning it myself. As of right now, I only have data and not dyno time to make theoretical horse pressure assertions. At the boost level and injector duty cycle it is presently at, I should be well over 300 whp. It runs and feels like that. Honestly it feels quite a bit faster than the old mid 12 second car I used to own. Lots of torque, and the few race driver friends I have in the area are thoroughly impressed with it. Mostly because the power is so linear.

I am still running stock cams, but only because the Stock JDM ZC cams have so much lift from the factory. I do plan to swap them out for a set of Colt Triflows in the future. But that will only be if I choose to push the car a little further with a G25-550 or G25-660 turbo.

Current Fuel system: Upgraded to a dedicated relay to insure it gets proper voltage (if you haven't done this, you need too), an authentic Walbro 255lph fuel pump, an AEM FPR (no problems with it), Injector Nation 600cc injectors, and fuel pressure set at 45psi at idle. Fuel is 93 octane mixed with one gallon of 110 per tank.
 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI
Joined
·
846 Posts
Right there with you. I have a dedicated relay for the pump which is a GSL392HP from walbro.

My first fuel system iteration was running an external version of the 392, but have since switched to the same pump but the in tank version. I couldn't get the external to completely stop cavitating due to my pickup design. I need to redesign the external pump pickup to stop the cavitating. Just need time to do this :)

I 'could' run the in tank walbro 392 to the external 392, but this is silly and pointless since the in tank one offers exactly the same performance as the external. I'm just running the in tank, but still using my fuel cooler design.
 
61 - 80 of 104 Posts
Top