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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter #41
Anyone know where I can find new dust covers/brake shields? Mine were toast. Also chose to just get new hubs. The old ones look pretty trashed and I scarred one a little getting the bearing race off. Anyone have a particular brand they preferred? More to come as soon as the FA's get in.
 

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fuckin' ...cool tools,looks pricey ..

you think the por15 should last longer than tremclad?I never see that shit up here,but I don't go to stores..
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I've never used Tremclad but I have coated a whole frame of a car with POR 15 (my dads restoration on his 35 Ford Coupe). It holds up very well in our climate here in the south. The tools were an Amazon buy, cost me $55, so definitely not too bad on that. There are other tools offered that are quite expensive (in the $4-500 range). But this was a buy it to see if it'll even work deal and it worked great. Parts are well made, heavy duty, and if you follow the directions and don't use an impact with it, then it works great.

Thoughts on ugly factory hubs that I paint, versus new Ching Chong meow parts?
 

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I've never used Tremclad but I have coated a whole frame of a car with POR 15 (my dads restoration on his 35 Ford Coupe). It holds up very well in our climate here in the south. The tools were an Amazon buy, cost me $55, so definitely not too bad on that. There are other tools offered that are quite expensive (in the $4-500 range). But this was a buy it to see if it'll even work deal and it worked great. Parts are well made, heavy duty, and if you follow the directions and don't use an impact with it, then it works great.

Thoughts on ugly factory hubs that I paint, versus new Ching Chong meow parts?
I would trust 30 year old honda parts over china and their fuckin' scam.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Yeah, I'm thinking that the slightly gouged one, I messed up, would probably be better than the crappy Chinesium parts. I'll likely knock out the ones on the car and just re-use those. Good lugs, not so rusty, and factory tough. And I can't seem to find new or decent brake dust/rock shields, so I'll just use the ones on the car once I knock out the hubs.

Anybody got any advice on getting those bearing races off of the hub besides the grinder? Clamshell is a good option but I don't have a kit to do that with. Maybe I'll just be more careful with the cut off wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
you think the por15 should last longer than tremclad?I never see that shit up here,but I don't go to stores..
I got my POR 15 off of Amazon. Much better pricing than local. Literally by $20. Got a quart of semigloss black for $41 Prime.
 

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Anybody got any advice on getting those bearing races off of the hub besides the grinder? Clamshell is a good option but I don't have a kit to do that with. Maybe I'll just be more careful with the cut off wheel.
I usually cut part way through with a cutoff wheel then slam the fuck out of it with a BFH and chisel .
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I usually cut part way through with a cutoff wheel then slam the fuck out of it with a BFH and chisel .
Yeah that's what I did, maybe the bearings in it were weaksauce, only really ground enough to get a groove so I could do exactly that. It did pop off with one or two hits, but I had already grooved it a tad.

I'll do better next time boss.........

Thats what I keep telling myself lol
 

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Yeah that's what I did, maybe the bearings in it were weaksauce, only really ground enough to get a groove so I could do exactly that. It did pop off with one or two hits, but I had already grooved it a tad.

I'll do better next time boss.........

Thats what I keep telling myself lol
what is better anyway?

really who cares 99% of the population don't even know what a muffler bearing is .
Carry on..

 

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Discussion Starter #50
So for some reason I seem to have not written too much about the transmission except for the gearing. Its currently Si 1-2, ZC 3-4, and Si 5th. But the main attraction is the metal plate LSD that I have in it. Bought it off of a round track racer. Actually built a few transmissions for him in exchange for it and a set of legit ZC axles with stub shaft. To this day I'm still unsure of the manufacturer, but I've settled on it must either be an older Cusco, or one of the very first MFactory ZC units. No its not something adapted from a B or anything like that. Best thing about this locker was actually the worst thing to start with. When I first got it, the preload (small springs in the pic) was set to 100% and the locking ability (way the plates are actually oriented) was set to 100%. Any of you that run metal plate LSD's know that this caused severe clunking under light acceleration or tight turns. So much so that steering wheel would nearly be yanked out of your hand. Steering was extremely heavy as well, and it would occasionally clunk and jerk under power through a turn which was down right frightening. So I pulled it back out, tore it down, set the preload to 50% and the locking ability to 40% and voila. Drives like a dream, great traction, great steering, and best of all, no clunking. BTW I run Torco MTF mixed with Torco friction modifier in the trans. Here are some pics of the diff:

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Discussion Starter #51
I also ended up needing a new clutch cable and could no longer source one through any Honda dealership. We all know that the aftermarket ones are prone to snapping, so after searching high and low I found that Partsgeek actually sells the OEM cable made by TSK. Ordered one from them, perfect fit and has worked great ever since. Wagon is a different length than CRX or hatchback, making it harder to find.
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Discussion Starter #53
Non ethanol 93 only, and then I usually pop 1 gallon of 110 in it to be safe just in case I got some bad fuel and because it sits sometimes. Also, I run a decently aggressive tune on the street. Nothing crazy, just have

I need to do a write up on that set up. Basically a DIY with parts from Ebay, Amazon, and some ingenuity using some Factory parts for a supercharged Cobra Mustang (electric coolant pump), front mounted heat exchanger(Ebay), small aluminum reservoir (Ebay), A2W intercooler (probably Ebay bought from FB marketplace), and Goodyear hose to connect it all. Lowers IAT 10-12 degrees right after a hard pull within the first mile or two of driving. Lowered fully in 4ish miles or so. Even after heat soak sets in, it still is super efficient.
 

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running esso 91 ,pure gas .org says it has no ethanol but still not sure,,, the local big block guy says they are all lying crooks...

cooling the incoming air sounds so much harder to do when you talk about all those dodads ,...:)
 

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Discussion Starter #55
They are mostly all lying crooks lol. Reasons I hit that splash of 110.

More complicated, yes, but way more efficient, especially if you're sitting in traffic and can turn a fan on the heat exchanger to cool the charge. I usually run about 10-15* over ambient at the IAT sensor while datalogging. For a turbo car that's fantastic. After heat soak its about 20*. And thats at 85* ambient. The lower the ambient temps or the lower the temperature of the fluid, the more efficient the A2W is. Actually keeping me near ambient here lately.
 

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do you have any kind of additive in the loopor just water?

being a dreamer type person I all way's dreamed of wanted ing to do an igloo/beer cooler water to air ...
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Yes, its a mix of water, and blue windshield washer fluid so it won't freeze. Blue does not foam up as bad as the green or orange will when shot through a pump at high pressure. I have heard that Amsoil Dominator Coolant Booster and a water mix actually works the best. Water wetter by itself or mixed with water can build up scales in the system. I know a lot of the Mustang crowd swears by the Amsoil stuff, so I think in the Spring I'll drain the system and try that. I'd love to have a different reservoir
 

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Discussion Starter #59
So today I tackled part one of two fixes/upgrades that I've been working towards for the past few weeks. I found a good deal on rear brake shoes (Raybestos) and on wheel cylinders (Raybestos) through Rockauto. I knew that I had a roached right rear trailing arm, so first I pulled the bent one off, pressed out the Hardrace RTA bushing from the bent one and then pressed it into the freshly prepped replacement. Didn't realize how bad the old one was until I sat the two beside each other. The "bent" part happened when yours truly did not pay attention to the instructions for the RTA bushing press and used a freaking impact on it. Yeah, don't ever use an impact of any type on it. Even a 3/8 electric impact lol. New bushing pressed in, new RTA installed, then rebuilt the brakes, then bled them. Right RTA had the alignment all jacked up on that side. Now one step closer for when the Fortune Auto Coilovers come in in a few weeks. Next I'll install the Hardrace UCA's, and rebuilt front spindles.
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old pads still look new. i would have run them another 13000..

but since you were in there anyway.
 
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