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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
Aero's is similar, except its a 4 port with 3 on top and one on bottom for drain back to the block.

2 top ports vent the valve cover into the can, and one is recirc back to turbo inlet.

On a side note, i havent seen a Mac desktop in over a decade lol
What are your thoughts on the recirc to the turbo?

Just the thought of a chance of liquid getting sucked in there scares me a little. Oil sucked through my turbo and then intercooler.......idk. I've seen several set ups like this. I will likely not have mine drain back into the oil pan though.
 

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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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What are your thoughts on the recirc to the turbo?

Just the thought of a chance of liquid getting sucked in there scares me a little. Oil sucked through my turbo and then intercooler.......idk. I've seen several set ups like this. I will likely not have mine drain back into the oil pan though.
If you arent able to drain back, i'd probably also steer clear of engine recirc for fear of sucking in a ton of oil on the off chance you forget to "check the can that one time"...

Not going engine recirc also keeps intercooler and compressor housing cleaner :)

In all "normal" vehicle cases, I always maintain recirc if possible and PCV, but on a high song turbo car, there are reasons not to.

A good mix of the two to avoid recirc back through the engine would be to have a draft tube welded into your exhaust at a tight acute angle under the car, and vent in there, so any oil vapors that still make it out have a chance of being drawn through the exhaust piping and burned with hot exit exhaust gasses.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #205 ·
If you arent able to drain back, i'd probably also steer clear of engine recirc for fear of sucking in a ton of oil on the off chance you forget to "check the can that one time"...

Not going engine recirc also keeps intercooler and compressor housing cleaner :)

In all "normal" vehicle cases, I always maintain recirc if possible and PCV, but on a high song turbo car, there are reasons not to.

A good mix of the two to avoid recirc back through the engine would be to have a draft tube welded into your exhaust at a tight acute angle under the car, and vent in there, so any oil vapors that still make it out have a chance of being drawn through the exhaust piping and burned with hot exit exhaust gasses.
I've done this before on V8 cars that I built in the past, but none had a catalytic converter. I can only assume that the port would need to be post converter so that all doesn't pass through. Or, should it be pre converter so it burns off? Thoughts? It would definitely scavenge off the vapors from the can.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
Very nice read, how did I miss this for so long?
Thanks! It happens. This car has been a long time coming together. Just glad that it actually works so well. Functionality was always one of my goals.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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As for the recirc pcv system I have to run them on nearly every boosted car I build, its actually only a maintenance thing, just needs an intake system cleaner run through it every 30k miles or so to keep the compressor and heat exchanger from building up deposits. However, the catch can needs to drain, and there needs to be a check valve in line with the pcv valve and draft tube. getting the right size, angle, and position of the draft tube into the air intake will actually reduce crankcase pressures better than a vented setup.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
So today was an eventful day. Had been planning some maintenance and upgrades since coming back from Classic Honda's on the Dragon. My catch can set up was seriously inadequate and caused it to puke condensation/oil a few times. So I shipped off a valve cover to Greg at Go-Autoworks, who powdercoated it, welded in the bungs, and even welded in a pretty sweet baffle. Out with the old:

Light Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Gas


In with the new:

Product Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas


Greg welded in this sweet baffle to keep oil from slinging out the ports:

White Light Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bag


But it touched the cam caps.......... So I had to take it out which was a bummer:

Photograph Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


And yes, I did install the spark plug tube seals. Got those from Honda. They can get the tube seals, but the actual valve cover gasket is discontinued.

Next on to making up the lines.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #209 ·
PTFE hose works REALLY well, however, it can be a pain in the butt to work with when you're making up the lines. One strand of stainless brand. ONE STRAND!! Was my nemesis today, and roached out one of my fittings. That's $12 I'll never get back lol.

Any how, not all PTFE is created equal. What I've used in past worked really well, and this worked fine, but the black nylon on this particular hose purchased from Amazon (Evil Energy), was exceedingly stubborn. I normally tape them up, cut around it about 7/16" or so from the end,with a razor blade and just pull off the black nylon. Well........ Not today. At one point it looked like a rock star with strung out dreads or something. Anyhow, once I figured out I had to cut it with scissors, which really sucked, but eventually I got it. And yeah, I did lose a fitting over a stupid single strand of stainless braid.

Eye Leg Water Plant Twig


Wow that looks janky........all fixed before the ferrule went on.

Hand Body jewelry Eyewear Wedding ceremony supply Wood


Took the side cutters and trimmed back the strands of stainless, and voila:

Plant Tire Bicycle tire Water Automotive tire


And of course the finished product:

Hood Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper


My initial plan was to include a Vibrant air/oil separator (which I still have), and then into this vented catch can but with the air to water intercooler there just isn't room under the hood for it right now. I will eventually get it all together, but for today this was a victory nonetheless.

Later I changed the trans oil as well. Mix of Torco MTF and RTF. Works great for the metal plate LSD. Tried out what looked like a soap bottle pump to pump in the oil. I generally take out the reverse light switch and add from there but with all of the piping it is not easily accessed, so I actually filled through the fill port using the pump. Worked great.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Tire Automotive design


Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Safety glove
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Well, it's been a while, I've built a shop, relaunched my business, outfitted the shop with enough tools to build or fabricate most anything needed or wanted for a race car, and now there are some huge things coming for the wagon.

More to come in the coming days, but I think the results will be crazy, and I'm pretty certain I'll be the first DOHC ZC equipped with a G25-550 turbo...............
 

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So far I’ve used PTFE hose from Hot Rod Fuel Hose, Racetronix (which I’m pretty sure is Fragola), and Aeromotive, plus some plain old rubber hose from Goodridge. The Aeromotive was by far the most difficult to install ends on. I really thought I stripped the first end I put on, and at $35 a pop, I was freaking out. The Goodridge stuff was a snap, but it’s -10 and rubber so that makes sense since it doesn’t use a ferrule and insertion is really easy with a drop of lube. The Racetronix and Hot Rod were not bad at all but I’ve also got my method down pretty good now. It remains to be seen whether they leak but I did buy a pressure test kit so I’ll charge them and dunk them before they ever seen any fluids.
I have nightmares about jabbing my fingertips with steel braid.
Any chance you’d be able to fab up a crash bar for my coupe? I’m looking to ditch the factory beam here pretty soon.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
I usually lean towards Fragola. The "evil energy" stuff on Amazon will work but all it takes is one strand of stainless steel braid getting in there and the threads are roached and there's no going back once that happens. And the SS popping a finger really freakin hurts. Even with leather gloves on, I always seem to get popped by it when I'm building lines. Really sucks to hear that about the super high dollar stuff being hard to work with.

As for the crash bar, I don't have a tubing bender yet, but once I do, yes, that will definitely be something that I could do.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
So as an update with some decent pictures. I decided that before adding more power (more to come on this), I should address some issues with shifting and go through the transmission. I bought a Synchrotech Master kit with carbon synchros, hardened shift selectors, bearings, and seals and decided to jump in. I've built many transmissions over the years. I mean too many to count, but it took me taking the gear stack apart to realize how long it had actually been since I'd had a gear stack completely apart. So on to the mayhem. I have Innovative mounts in the car, but the intermittent shift issues actually seemed like I had a bad mount somewhere. Well, they weren't bad, they just weren't exactly attached properly. Most people that complain of synchronizer issues normally have a motor/transmission mount issue, which can eventually cause a synchro issue because they never fixed the actual issue.

Automotive tire Bumper Gas Engineering Hood


Found the front mount like this, missing a bolt and spacer. Who knows where they ended up.

Secondly I found that the firewall (rear) mount had two of the three bolt holes with no threads left in them. Old versus new bolt:

Blue Wood Gas Nut Metal


Some of the threads are on the bolt there. Also, don't ever underestimate a good Honda parts man. I called my guy up and told him what I needed, brought them down there and next day I had brand new rear trans case bolts. Cost all of $5 for brand new bolts straight from Honda. That was the shop price but retail wasn't tremendously more. Here's a pic of the part number just in case you need trans bolts. part number is for the two longer bolts:

Sleeve Font Plastic Plastic bag Transparency


I was just glad to get them. So I drilled out the case holes with no threads, and then the one that had a few hanging on for dear life and helicoiled them all. I would've rather done timeserts, but I already had a box full of M12 x 1.25 Helicoils and the kit to do it, so I went with helicoils. If it was a single bolt hole, or maybe even just a 2 bolt bracket I may have ponied up and gone timesert, but since it was three, I just went with it.

Automotive tire Wood Gas Auto part Rope


If you've never done helicoils before, just make sure you run the tap through the hole a few times. I've done countless bolt hole repairs with these things in the past and still ruined one on this because there was a burr on the threads I had cut in. Luckily got the bad one out and new one went in.

Automotive tire Wood Grey Line Automotive wheel system


Once those were fixed, I moved on to the internals of the trans. Old synchro (which do not look bad at all) vs new synchro.

Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Gas Wood Font


Automotive tire Wood Plant Auto part Automotive wheel system


Stock vs Hardened 1/2 gear selector:

Automotive tire Gear Motor vehicle Gas Auto part


Got it all back together and reinstalled today, and with all of the mounts working properly, new synchro's, gear selectors, new Speedfactory shift selector spring, bearings, etc. it shifts smooth as butter. Even 8k+ power shifts were just as smooth as if I was shifting at 2500 rpms. Found a few other issues that I'll post pics on later. I like the suspension parts I got from HardRace, but I should've realized how dicey some of the hardware was. One of the upper ball joint nuts on the adjustable upper control arms I got from them had zero threads left in it. In fact when I went to unscrew it to pull the drivers axle, it just spun on the upper ball joint stud. At first I thought the ball joint was toast, but no it was just the nut. So when I got it off I looked at the other side, which came off easily, and it had similar issues beginning. So those nuts got replaced with some good old Honda nuts I had sitting in the tool box. The new ones only have like 10k miles on them at the most. So if you buy Hardrace upper control arms, just replace the ball joint nuts with your old stock ones.

All that to say it shifts so nicely now. Makes it feel tons better in feedback and knowing that the gear is going to be there and I won't have to fight or granny shift for it to be there when Im in power.

More updates to come in the coming weeks.




G25-550 is inbound...........



Along with some sponsorship, and group pricing for brand new turbos.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
So it's been an extremely hot minute since I've done any updates on the wagon. I've been stuck in CRX land because of that damnable b7 in it that has refused to fix, so thusly I fold on that (just the b7, not the CRX), and got something in today, so I decided to go ahead and put it back together and put it on the car.

In the process of becoming a dealer for RAC turbo's, I've kind of opened up a door to a lot of things. One being that I now have a good source to rebuild ball bearing turbo's. The issue for most is rebalancing them once the bearing cage and shaft have been pulled and then reinstalled. So I was talking to the owner at RAC and he says, so I do rebuild ball bearing turbo's if they are a quality turbo, so we get to talking about the GT2860RS which was starting to leak a bit of oil. He says, sure I'll rebuild it, quotes me an excellent price, and I ship it off. While he has it, he calls me up and says, hey I just got these killer turbine and compressor wheels in from XONA turbos and they fit a T28 housing. Do you want me to put them into yours. I ask, what are the benefits and drawbacks. He goes on to explain to me XONA's 5+5 technology and how they can move more air with greater efficiency. So in essence the efficiency range of the turbo just got better and it will actually spool a bit quicker now. All cool things. So I say yeah, lets try it out. Just came back in today, so I assembled it, and put it back onto the wagon (which has been sitting for months now :/).

Here's what the 5+5 wheels look like.

Automotive tire Wood Grey Table Rim


Table Hat Dishware Drinkware Automotive tire


Wheel Automotive tire Hubcap Alloy wheel Tire


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Wood Rim


Automotive tire Wheel Alloy wheel Gas Rim


Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Automotive design



I didn't fire it up or anything because I know its going to need retuning with the changes that were made. So I'll take it slow and either over the weekend or next week sometime, I'll get up early one morning and take it for some datalogging rips to get it dialed back in. We'll see how the 5+5 mod works as compared to what it was.


This turbo will later see duty on the CRX and the G25-550 will be going on the wagon.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Those wheels are fun 😃

I'm not certain if the ca18de and sr20det that got fitted with these wheels benefitted more from the new wheels or from the ported compressor housings, either way the upgrade was huge for both cars. They completely out ran their suspensions once off the dyno and came to me for upgrades in that department, and what was already on them was not junk, just wasn't quite up to 30ftlbs more torque coming in 600 rpms sooner.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
A little update. The Xona wheels are a brand new concept. Came out this year, and hopefully they will make an appearance on another DSO car in the very near future until then, this should help you understand the difference between a normal GT2860RS car and what this is now.....


GT2860RS Xona RAC Turbo mod DOHC ZC wagon
 
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