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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
Spoke to another Wagon friend last night about it. He has a Rotrex Supercharged B series in his wagon, has a JimFab traction bar (had an innovative before that), and has the same exact issue that I have. Car gets super squirrelly and unpredictable when in the power band. Hopefully I get some answers for him and myself this weekend when I go for the alignment.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
So I started back with my in-school service stuff this week. Yeah, that sucked. Hahahaha!

Any way, so I had a few things planned up for this weekend, parts came in, and things lined up to go get the car aligned. I spent most of the time at my buddies shop literally in the car. His theory (because of something that happened in one of his Modified race cars long ago) was that the car was acting silly because the alignments were done without me in the car. I'm no liteweight at 235 lbs, so it seemed to reason that with the wheel base of the wagon that this could actually be an issue. So I spent most of the 3 hours that it took up in the car, trying not to talk to much or breathe deeply because the laser alignment machine is so sensitive. I did get my hands dirty because we had to adjust the camber which meant on the Hardrace uppers, I had to loosen all 6 of those hex key bolts on both sides. So much fun. You know if you have them. Love them, but it sucks getting to those bolts. So here's where the alignment ended up. Had to hand the phone to my pal Richard to get the pick of the finished alignment.

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Ended up getting as close as possible on a lot of these numbers. The camber would never exactly sit at -.5, so we settled at these numbers, and the Caster was within .1 of each other so we felt that was close enough. Rear was fairly out of whack and they were toe'd out a bit, now toe'd in a bit. Also messed with toe in up front so that it' in a bit. My friend has owned this all Honda shop since 1990, and before that worked at the Honda dealership on the line for 10 years. He really did me a solid by doing this on Sunday and taking the time to do it right.

Left his shop, got it warm, hit a few curves, then out to the main drag in town and what pulls up beside me (trying to bait the poor little ugly/shiney Honda)? A 2018ish 5.0 Mustang. Big old scoop on the hood, big rear tires, etc. Trying to assert his authority. And if you read that A-thor-rit-tie al la Cartman, we can be friends, not that I'm a South Park fan, but I always hear it that way lol. Respect my a thor it tie lol. Anyway, he's down shifting, barking tires, I do a 40 mph 3rd gear rolling drop, so it pulls all the way through the RPM band, go to red line (8600 and over 100 mph very quickly) and let off. He's literally 15+ car lengths behind me, never ever gained ground. I was quickly leaving him, but the best part is that the car went straight!!!! It didn't do that whole widomaker thing it has been doing and taking up the whole lane just to keep it straight. No steering wheel snatch, or side ditch magnet feeling lol. Hit a red light, mustang wanted more so badly. I grandpa shifted the rest of the way. Smile on my face, even leaned up on the steering wheel like I was a little old man. Basking in the glory of my shiny 20 footer that just roasted a brand newish car.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
Worked on this today after the alignment shop fun:

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The DOHC ZC valve cover does not lend itself easy to welding in AN bungs for the catch can, so I have been simply running the two vents up to now. One off the black box and the normal valve cover breather line. Saw something RobGoof had posted of his and his home made vented oil cap, and thought it'd be cool if you could get one in aluminum. So I did some searching and VMS makes this kit. It's pretty cool. There are baffles in the piece that screws into the valve cover to keep liquid in the valve cover and just vapor going to the catch can. Pretty nifty to say the least. So I got that plumbed up and installed today and honestly it was pretty easy to install once I got it figured out. Not really a performance upgrade but a longevity one I hope. Anyway, just wanted to share so if any of you were thinking of running one, it works pretty well and doesn't leak so far. Has O rings top and bottom and they fit into a groove that holds them in place. All in all, a straight forward install that should help alleviate a little more crank case pressure. Idle was identical to what it was prior to installing this.

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Man this guy needs to clean his engine bay up lol..............
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Good stuff!

A bit of toe in on a tight front end does wonders for pointability under power :)

The green car was squirrely under power till it got aligned, it was significantly toed in for some reason, not sure why? But alignment cured the scariness!

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They moved it from the 3.5 degrees back to 1.5 degrees camber and I didnt notice till I got to a loaded corner lol, tires were rubbing with how low the front sits. Had to tuck the tires in a bit more when I got home, but I'll move it back to less camber once the new coilovers are installed :)

That VMS oil cap breather fitting is sweet! Very functional! Although robgoof would say otherwise lol "no beer can catch can, no bueno!"

Can't wait to see this beast in person haha, dying for a ride, it sounds awesome!
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Maybe I'll bring the laptop along and we can clean up my AFR's in boost as well lol. Sounds good man!

What was your caster up front? Mine ended up at about +3.75 on both sides. Turns well and pulls straight.


Also glad to hear that Aero goes straight now! Nothing is as fun as not knowing where the car is going to go under power lol
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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I love the death pull feels like it wants to go both ways and hit both ditches at the same time..

Saw something RobGoof had posted of his and his home made vented oil cap, and thought it'd be cool if you could get one in aluminum. So I did some searching and VMS makes this kit. It's pretty cool.
hey that's me.

looks a little better than mine ,,it even matches your paint.



That VMS oil cap breather fitting is sweet! Very functional! Although robgoof would say otherwise lol "no beer can catch can, no bueno!"
yeah but I would settle for a maple syrup can..:)if I had to..
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
So it has been a while. I got the car aligned, still rippin hard, but still not as solid as it should be at over 100 in power. So I was in the shop picking some things up and tripped over an engine mount and hit me. Literally right between the eyes. Hey dummy, you never put the rear Innovative mount in the car when the engine was out last time. So all this time I've been ripping with this as my rear motor mount:

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Gas Auto part


Somehow amazingly enough it doesn't look awful, but at over 300 at the wheels deflection becomes a real thing. I could move the bracket around a good bit with it bolted in. No movement after this puppy when it (like it should have at the beginning, sheesh I'm a lame brain sometimes):

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And then all buttoned up:

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So today, I tackled three fairly large projects on the car. This being the most time consuming. I knew it would be a pain, as I've replaced rear mounts on EF's and wagons before. There's just not a lot of room to get that back bolt in line with the mount loose. Either way, I wrestled it, and then remembered that the stock bolts aren't long enough when using the Innovative mount. Well, only remembered that after I had it in there. No prob, found bolts, fixed problem, then moved on to the other two projects.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
So now on to project number two. I had noticed a drip of oil under the car on the ground in my parking spot at work. At first my mind instantly goes to the Turbo housing, then the rear main seal when I see where its lining up with. Get to looking and sure enough, luckily enough it was the shift shaft seal. It had actually pulled out of the trans, so it wasn't stopping anything from leaking. So after the mount was done today I switch over to the shift shaft seal. Pulled the old one out and it looked like death:

Light Blue Automotive tire Motor vehicle Line


Called my bud at the local Honda dealership earlier this week, and sure enough he pulled off a minor miracle and got a brand new one for $6. Oreilly wanted $12 for a National, so yeah, always check with Honda first. You never know what you'll find, especially if your parts guy is as good as mine is.

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Part number for reference (88-91 Civic 5 speed all) and then the part itself:

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Easy install. 19mm socket fit perfectly inside the lip and I tapped it in. No more drips now. So glad for that. On to the final project for the day.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
So for the final project of this fine Saturday, I took a stab at the DIY Lowes Sloppy shifter fix, as seen in this link:

DIY No Slop Shifter for $14.99 - Lowe's


I had seen this years ago and bookmarked it on my laptop. I've read through it multiple times and will actually post a correction on it, as it has one drill bit listed incorrectly. Anyway, I kept thinking I need to do it, I need to do it, but when I inspected my shift shaft seal, I also took a look at the shifter bushings and this is what I found:


So what you gonna do? Replaced the seal, so now on to the wobbly/sloppy linkage. Grind the head off of the rivet/pin that holds this on. Then knock the pin out with a punch. Pull this piece off and pull out the stock bushings/spacers.

After cleaning:

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Stock spacers/bushings:

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So the only modifications are drilling the center of the above piece out to 3/4" and then drilling out the linkage end where the riveted pin is to 3/8" so your bolt fits. The original post says 1/2", but it is 3/4". Then you press together your parts from Lowes (see that linked post for a list of parts, and yes, literally cost me $14.53) Pressing the inner sleeves into the bushing:

Wood Gas Machine Machine tool Auto part


Used this to drill out the big boy hole. 3/4" in the drill with the vice just wasn't happening. Press didn't care, it just marched on. Bent drill bit and all..........how do you bend a 3/4" drill bit dad?!!?! And then tell me to straighten it with a hammer......hahahahahha! (Hey, he's 74, he can pretty much say or do whatever he wants to at this point lol)

Window Saw Wood Window blind Milling



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Then press it all together in the vice. I did not use hammers. The vice worked perfectly easy enough for me.

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Now it was time to put it on the car. So I used a grade 8 3/8" bolt (as per the instructions) and a Nylon lock nut with blue loctite on it. That way I could set the tension of the joint.

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Once I was happy with with the tension, I sewed it all back up (and yes, I did put the clip back on that holds the bitch pin and keeps it from "falling out". Just hadn't in this pic). No more slop now. It isn't like night and day in some ways, but in power, she no longer "sometimes" finds a grind or clunk going to 3rd or reverse. Just pops in gear like it should. So shouldn't miss any power shifts now lol. All in all a great day. Got a lot done. Car goes much straighter now under power at high MPH, shifts much more smoothly, and we cured the "drip". Didn't even need a mallet and a hand to hold............... LOL if you got that joke.

Anyhow, if you're thinking about doing the shift slop eliminator DIY I'd recommend it. Tightened it right up. Cost me a few hours (mainly for that danged bent drill bit) and $14.53 at Lowes. Part numbers in original post are still accurate at Lowes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Just in time as I was about to take the first of two road trips in the wagon, I think my fuel pressure regulator is quitting on me. Its an AEM that's been on there about 2 years. I noticed that base pressure was down to about 40 psi, which I had it set to 45 just in case my gauge was crap. However, now when you shut it off, pressure drops nearly immediately to 0. I don't really notice it in the AFR's too awful much. In fact the only reason I looked at it was because I felt some slight bucking in 1st gear at very low rpms (1500 or less) going down the driveway with minimal throttle input. Same in 2nd gear. So that's just one of the things I checked over and saw it. I know in past the AEM FPR's had had issues, but was assured that the "new one's were way better and don't break", lol. All things require servicing, however it seems the Aeromotive just don't need servicing quite so often. Looking for you guys to weigh in.

So here's the real question, what are you boosted guys using for an FPR nowadays. I searched the forum and all the posts are old as dirt and everyone was using the B&M type that you saw the stocker in half to use. I'd rather mount it somewhere and use AN 6 fittings from the rail to the regulator, and then from the regulator to return line I suppose. What do your set ups look like? I've looked at Aeromotive, Fuel Lab, and Hybrid Racing so far. I know Aeromotive is good, but which one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
That 13130 kit is exactly what I've been looking at. I'll just come off of the stock rail with an adapter to -6AN, braided hose over to the regulator mounted on the strut tower or elsewhere, then come out the bottom with another -6AN hose. Thought about going ahead and running PTFE lines, with an aftermarket filter so that I could upgrade to E85 in the future. Sheetz carries E85 in our area, so I've been thinking on it for a while, and this may be the nudge I needed.

Thanks for the recommend! Exactly what I was looking for.
 

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I was looking at the 13139 just because I’m doing -8AN feed, but it’s more plumbing work to run it off rail. The 13116 attaches to the rail at the stock location so no feed line/fitting is needed, just a fitting for return. It’s like $100 more but I won’t need an ORB fitting, plug, 90° swivel, or hose, so I’d probably break even.
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
So after going on the long haul trip to the Tail of the Dragon, I really only have one thing that I know of that needs to be addressed. That's my catch can and better valve cover ventilation. I need a more legitimate set up as I got too much liquid in my little catch can, so I'm looking at this from Vibrant. I have a buddy that runs a similar 2 port Vibrant catch can on his wagon, this is a 4 port because I prefer 2 valve cover vents and then the back of the block as well. Does anyone have experience with this specific catch can set up?

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My thought is to run the three vents to this can and then use the 4th port to go to a breather to vent from. This setup is actually meant to recycle with a MAF type system. I've seen a few people run one of these ports in front of the turbo to recycle the fumes, but I'm not that interested in recycling that way. Fuel economy is good lol. Did I mention I got 35 mpg on my trip to the Tail of the Dragon? Felt like I was in a good spot with the AFR's. That MPG was at 80 pretty much the whole way. 85 she went rich, so 80 it was. Had the laptop with me to retune if needed, but decided the car was happy where it was.
 
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