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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, been doing some research, as there is alot to come threw. i believe i have found the majority of information, just want to get a concrete go ahead on what i believe to be correct and get one small question answered. much appreciated.

89 crx si, i have a st 22mm rear sway bar and end links.

this can bolt right in ? with no other parts, right ?

my one question, the end links do i make them center to center as long as the one piece factory end links that i take off ?

is a rear subframe brace necessary ? will be auto crossing the car often. if suggested or needed what brand is the go to ?

stratton.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You need the brackets as well. The bar mounts to the brackets.
this is why i asked. thank you for that info transzex.

i will contact st or a dealer during the week and get brackets/needed hardware and hopefully get a directions so i can make sure i have all parts and put them in correctly.

stratton.
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
EC3, ED8, ED9, EE5
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I'd also recommend getting weld in brackets. 22mm bar is a little much for the rear mounts to just bolt in, and way too much for the flimsy OE brackets.
 

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There is no need for a sub-frame brace because the sway bar does not touch the sub-frame.

You may need to modify your exhaust as there may be clearance issues. My sway bar was hitting my HKS exhaust so I cut out a small section and replaced it.

Not my picture but it shows you how it is mounted.

Source
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
EC3, ED8, ED9, EE5
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My 22mm bar does not use the OE attachment points and uses supplied brackets to attach the bar at its pivot points to the subframe.
 

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Im running the ST 22mm setup on my '89 CRX Si and it is a very tight fit with the exhaust.



Its a GReddy SP2 cat back exhaust setup using 2 3/8" OD pipe. Its so close that it the swaybar and exhaust bang together all the time, so I have a piece of rubber hose on the swaybar to muffle the sound of them touching. I would like to redo the exhaust in 2.5" with a quieter muffler and fix this issue while Im at it. I think if the hanger was done differently, it would be okay.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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You also need the weld on tabs and longer bolts for the shocks. Although the factory bolt hole can be drilled out and used, the effective arm length will be shorter. Whichis how mine is after selling the Koni's with welded tabs.
 
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