Honda D Series Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
I just did my fuel lines in my car, and just thought I would post up. Use this as a reference, write up, whatever.

I have an in tank Walbro 255, and an in line Walbro 255. If you dont have an in line, you wont need the 2 extra fittings, and break in the line. Just go straight from the tank to the rail...

I did some research, and shopping around. Came to the conclusion that the Jegs (Jegs.com) "brand" fittings and lines were the cheapest route, and their fittings are a very good quality (some say that Aeroquip makes them. We know Jegs doesnt). A few fittings that I needed, Jegs doesnt make. So I ordered those from Earl's (ANplumbing.com). This is what I used:

-6 AN Wrench. Keeps you from over tightening or marring up the finish.

JEGS Performance Products 80551 JEGS AN Fitting Wrenches

-6 Nylon Braided Hose. Just like Ear's Pro Lite hose. I ordered 10', used about 9'. (EF/ED hatch)

JEGS Performance Products 110912 JEGS Pro-Flo 350 Series Braided Hose

-6 Straight Hose End. I needed 4. If you dont have an inline pump, you only need 2.

JEGS Performance Products 110001 JEGS AN Hose End Fittings - Black

-6 to 10mmx1.00 Adapter (for Walbro 255 in line/external pump). You need 2.

Russell 670480 Russell AN Male to Metric Male Adapter Fittings

-6 Competition Russell In Line Filter. 40 Micron

Russell 650133 Russell Competition Fuel Filters

90* -6 to 12mmx1.25 Adapter. Part # AT949091

AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products, Hose ends Hose,Adapters, fittings

90* -6 Female Coupler. Part # AT935106

AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products, Hose ends Hose,Adapters, fittings

-6 to 12mmx1.25 Adapter. Part # 991945 (Everyone should rep z6civicex for this part number. I couldnt figure it out it online for the life of me. No one ever posts what the thread pitch for the stock rail is.)

AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products, Hose ends Hose,Adapters, fittings
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Every car will be different, in what you need to do to access the lines, pump, etc. In the EF/ED, you need to drop the tank.

Once you have the tank out or access to the fuel pump door, remove the Banjo bolt and stock feed line from the top of the pump. Replace the banjo bolt/fitting with the 90* -6 to 12mmx1.25 fitting, using the supplied crush washer/rubber seal.



Remove the stock feed lines, filter, etc.



Take the original banjo stud/bolt out of the fuel rail. I used vice grips, as I wont be reusing this.

Install the straight -6 to 12mmx1.25 fitting into the fuel rail, using the supplied crush washer.



I wont do a write up on how to make braided and AN lines. There are a few of those on the internet, YouTube, etc.

Assemble one of the straight -6 hose ends to one of the braided line. Then install one end to your fuel filter, and on the other end of the filter install the -6 female coupler. (AFAIK, if there is no arrow on the filter, it is bi-directional. If yours has an arrow, have that pointing towards the rail)



Then connect your other end of your coupler to the fitting on the fuel rail, and route your hose.



Then route your hose in the path you want it to go. Mine went down the firewall, between the sway bar and rack, and down the exhaust tunnel. Then back over to the driver's side of the tank, along where the stock line went.

I then installed my -6 to 10mmx1.0 fittings with supplied crush washers, into both ends of my in line/external Walbro.



I then had to find a spot in the tunnel that I wanted to mount the pump. From there I could mock up the tank, the routing, and figure out where to cut my lines, and assemble the hose ends. I marked my cutting points with electrical tape, by wrapping it. Then I could cut through the tape, and hold the braid together.

Once I had everything marked, I pulled my fuel line back out of the car, so I could cut it. I cut accordingly and installed my hose ends like the previous hose ends.

I then reinstalled my hoses (mine being 2 pieces, because of my external fuel pump), and this time tightened everything up with my -6 wrench.



 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Once you get your lines tightened back up, you can start putting everything back together. Put the tank back up, place hose cushion clamps anywhere you feel necessary, to keep the hose out of harms way.









Hopefully this helps someone down the road.
 

·
Registered
95 ex coupe
Joined
·
4,281 Posts
great write up. that fitting wrench is pretty cheap too! i know the earls ones are terribly exspensive
 

·
formerly Kit88
ek hatch
Joined
·
6,233 Posts
rep for great write up

You must add the wiring diagram for the in-line pump , and this thread will be complete.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,819 Posts
good write up! how much space is there between the fitting in the fuel pump housing and the body?
 

·
Registered
same
Joined
·
1,881 Posts
Great write up +1 rep. Also, did you just run the fuel line in the exhaust well, and then just go straight to the fuel rail or did you go through the car?
if you look at the pics you can clearly see the lines running under the car the whole time.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top