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I can't make any real suggestions until I know how much money you have in your budget. If you've got big bucks, maybe you'd like the Illusion Audio C6 components. If you maybe don't have that much bucks, you might be interested in the Focal Access 165. What's your budget and can you demo any product locally?

Just FYI, square waves kill speakers, so don't waste your time trying to find components that are rated at 125 watts RMS. Instead, try giving them 75-100 watts of CLEAN power.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not trying to waste my time. I just want to be able to crank it and not worry about melting coils. I think I spent $300 or so on my last components. Also another option would be to just get a new set of 6.5" mids since my tweeters and crossovers are still good.
 

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was going to say some Infinity Kappa speakers but focal is a great brand as well. I'm going to be running reference series in my crv. but I don't run my sound so loud that I would blow my speakers let alone my eardrums. most speakers can take a beating but if you run any speaker to hard for too long it's going going to blow out as they need time to cool off and rest. also you need to do a break in before you should run them hard.
 

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power rating of the amp does not matter as long as it has the power to overcome the rating on the speakers.

you can hook up a 10 watt speaker to a 2500 watt amp and not blow it IF you dont crank it so loud it crackles.


more power= smoother operating amp overhead.

EDIT think of a computer power supply. if it was rated exactly for the computers power needs, it would probably fail quite fast. I have a 625 watt power supply with over 30 amps on the 12volt rail, and my computer draws MAYBE 250 watts full tilt overclocked. The power supply will last me YEARS as will the computer.


That said, I have had Alpine R components,TS series Pioneer components, and now Kenwood components. All sounded AMAZING once amped.

Had a set of Kicker 6.5 non-components (DS series) in the Fit. Bitch had bass, smooth mids, okay upper mids, and tweeters sounded great. But then I had a 1200 dollar headunit with nearly unlimited equalizing potential.

Kenwood, JBL, Kicker, Rockford for amp brands are reasonable and long lasting.

Look for speakers with a decibel rating OVER 100. The the higher the number, the louder it is at the same rated power and FAR more durable (in my opinion, since you wont be stressing the speaker AS MUCH)
 

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What are using as a sub?

Most people overdrive 6.5" (really they are only 5.75") trying to use it as a mid bass, and burn the coils up. What was the x-over point?
 

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What are using as a sub?

Most people overdrive 6.5" (really they are only 5.75") trying to use it as a mid bass, and burn the coils up. What was the x-over point?
plenty of actual 6.5 subwoofers out there. Tang, JBL, Kicker, Lanzar, Boss.

The Tang and JBL sound the best and actually can hit quite hard in a trio or quad box with proper port tuning
 

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Those subs will NOT fit into a Civic Door without a build out plate and stiffening the door panel.
The Tang "subs" are as deep as a set of good speakers, but the magnet is only 2 inches diameter or so.

Fits just fine. Would recommend a 1/4 inch plywood spacer/stiffener.

Fits behind EK grills just fine.


Tang Band W6-1139SI 6-1/2" Subwoofer

They need a well thought out install. Cannot just slap them in like 90% of people do, and then those 90% wonder why it sounds like shit.
 

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Eventually I will be running these
Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer

with some sort of in-trunk baffle setup to keep them happy.

Front doors will be full ranges with a 80 or 100Hz low end cutoff.

Also considering putting in Kenwood upper full range 4" in the rear quarters in palce of the cupholder/pockets. Had 4 of them in my Isuzu Rodeo (lower dash, rear mid pod) and it sounded fantastic. KFC series form Kenwood is surprisingly awesome budget speakers. Tweeters dont bore my brains out, mids are stable, and low end bass when set with a proepr lowpass was strong. I capped them at 75Hz and used an old OLD OLD kicker 8" home sub in a 10" box with an adapter plate and only 90rms or so bridged form an old rockford "heatsink" amp. Kicked ass!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The Tang "subs" are as deep as a set of good speakers, but the magnet is only 2 inches diameter or so.

Fits just fine. Would recommend a 1/4 inch plywood spacer/stiffener.

Fits behind EK grills just fine.


Tang Band W6-1139SI 6-1/2" Subwoofer

They need a well thought out install. Cannot just slap them in like 90% of people do, and then those 90% wonder why it sounds like shit.
sensitivity is pretty low and feq response is 38-800hz, whats a good feq response for a mid?

what about these? Cerwin-Vega CVMP6.5 6.5" PRO Midrange Bass Driver
 

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You can afford lower sensitivity in your lows and lower mids (say sub 1500Hz)

I am no audio expert. Remember this! Im coming from LIMITED personal experience.

BUT my prime "mid" frequency range would be 80-3000. almost too wide a range for any ONE driver to properly support, but there are plenty out there that do a decent job overall.

Even the cheapest walmart speakers do okay in this range when amplified properly.


The amp is the most important feature of audio. You can have the best speakers money can buy, but if you run a cheap ass amp, it will sound FAR worse than it could.

The opposite is also true. you can have the worlds shittiest subwoofers, but if you have a good box design and a good quality amp, you can make it VERY tolerable.


I will tell you my CURRENT setup. Cheap Kenwood singledin radio, I believe a newer 2013 or 2014 model.

Kenwood KFC sport series 6.5 and 6x9 speakers from bestbuy. fronts were I think $26 plus tax, rears were 35 plus ta I think.

Systems sounds VERY well balanced. I can turn it up quite a bit, and still have clarity. I cannot turn it up too much when bass boost is on. The speakers are crying for more power. Soon I will be getting a small 4channel amp, hopefully in the 100rms @ 4ohms flavor. Something I can throw under the dash somewhere.
 

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The only reason I picked up my Kenwood speakers is because I heard them in another persons car.

I rarely buy audio equipment of any sort (and any price) unless I have heard it.

Find a good audio shop near you and clean those ears out.

I bought these cheapos because the stock '97 speakers were shitty (all surrounds cracked from heat/age) and stock radio was getting poor reception.

I paid $50 for head unit, and those prices I gave earlier. so what, about $120?




As for matching drivers to your crossovers, find out what decibel slopes they have and what the crossover/high/low pass setups are. are they active crossovers? passive?



sometimes if you have the part number for the crossover itself, you can simply search driver match or speaker match <crossover number>


It sucks digging through kiddo posts online though. Some will say X speaker is garbage, it blew up, while in reality, they shorted it out or cranked it so high it distorted and belw up.

Distortion is the real audio killer. happens when the amp is overtaxed and instead of limiting its signal, it tries to push it out anyways.

a typical aftermarket radio puts out 10-22rms depending on who made it. you can drop in 150rms speakers and have years of life, but the second you max the volume it burns out the speaker.
 
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