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Discussion Starter #1
after two years of looking, i finally found my wagon. it's a little rusty, but 23 years in the north will do that. once body work is complete, it's on to the turbo!

my goal is a budget build daily driver build that will eventually see 200whp. now, i know everyone and their brother says you can get 200 on a stock block, but i'm looking for reliability over power. i live 30 minutes from everything, on roads that aren't always plowed, and need a car i can depend on to get to work. if i'm going to sink money into this project, i want it to last 5 years/60,000 miles.

plan so far:
stock block/head (d16a6)
small t3 turbo, possibly a go-autoworks kit
xenocron obd0 running turboedit
new oil pan with return

goal: 170-180whp ----------budget: 3 to 4 grand --------- driving style: average


questions:

i've read that ac with a turbo is not worth the effort on a d-series. those posts didn't talk about what sort of power numbers they were dealing with. can i expect a noticeable difference in performance of ac at my power goal? i know air flow is key, but am i really going to be making that much heat?

because i am nearly doubling the intended whp of the car, i expect more wear on 4wd drivetrain. do i need to look into stronger aftermarket parts? i've read that some people upgrade their u-joints, but is that really necessary for my build? what are some of the components that may wear, or that i should check over to make sure it'll last?

one of the important factors in how much boost you need is how efficiently you can move air. better air flow = less boost, less boost = longer life. would i really notice a change in boost levels with an aftermarket intake manifold and throttle body? what about port and polish? also, would running a very mild aftermarket cam make any sense with my goals in mind?

i am trying to use stock parts as much as possible. how much fuel can the stock pump/injectors flow? can i get away with not upgrading my fuel system? if injectors and pump are necessary, is fuel rail?

is it necessary to vent the valve cover with such a mild build? again reliability is key. i am willing to wait longer to save more money to do it right, but don't want to waste money on unnecessary parts or bling.

i'm still trying to decide if i should spend the extra money on a ball bearing turbo over a journal bearing. i know the ball bearing wears less and is quicker to boost, but is it that noticeable?

thanks in advance. really excited about this build and can't wait til it warms up to get started. supposed to be in the 50's this weekend :TU:
 

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My $ 0.02...

Leave the wagon stock and save your money. Whenever you have the $3-4k, sell the wagon to some kid and buy a wrx.

You'll be happier you did.
 

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Being that the car is a 1991, how is the suspension? Brakes? Current engine / trans health?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
just replaced tie rods and ball joints. brakes are fine, shock/struts are good. according to the guy i bought it from compression is good across the board and clutch replaced not too long ago. the viscous coupler is bad, so i plan on having that rebuilt soon. the engine only has 120k and interior is in pretty good shape, except for drivers seat.


i
 

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Im going to say there is no need for a fuel pump, rail or fpr at your power level, I put a turbo on my d16y5 and only installed 525cc injectors and got it tuned (made 166whp 149tq). Also you dont need a vented valve cover but its still recommended to get one, I didnt run one on my turbo civic for over a year but if you can weld its easy to make a catch can and if you have to you can jb weld some fittings on the cover.
 

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You can save money by peicing together you a kit. Not knocking a Go-Autoworks kit as Greg is a badass with great products, but for you goal, you can get you all your stuff for a low buck setup with a good tune and be haapy with it.

Hell you might be able to fab you up a S/C from something like a SC14 (just throwing suggestions out there lol) SC14 in eBay Motors | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i don't have access to a welder, so fab work is difficult. i should probably buy one.

i'm leaning more toward buying new parts for the kit, thinking mainly about longevity.

head studs are a good idea, insurance.
 

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For these 4wd systems, make sure everything is good before putting through the power you plan to put through. Not that it couldn't handle it, but they are often neglected, especially at this age of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what should i be looking for? i don't hear any weird noises coming from the rear differential or drivetrain, no leaks. my viscous coupler is in need of a rebuild, but other than that it seems pretty solid.

anyone have experience with journal vs. ball bearing turbo on a small setup like this?
 

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The 4wd system can easily handle 200hp. People underestimate these things. The only things I would check is the viscous coupler operation and rear diff mounts. There are some good diy's on civicwagon.com. AC should be do-able with a log or cast style manifold. Look at go-autoworks ac compatible kit.

I recently got my 300whp rt wagon running and having a blast with it!
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/207586-rt4wd-wagon-dd-build.html
 
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