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Discussion Starter #1
I plan on starting my engine build in the next few months.I wanting opinions on my bottom end build plans.

it's a d16z6 block with block guard honed and hot tanked
d16 crank
All acl race bearing and arp bolts
h beam rods
Vitara pistons
Endyne oil pump
Obx oil pan only cause I can't find a moroso
 

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95 ex coupe
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4,281 Posts
I plan on starting my engine build in the next few months.I wanting opinions on my bottom end build plans.

it's a d16z6 block with block guard honed and hot tanked
d16 crank
All acl race bearing and arp bolts
h beam rods
Vitara pistons
Endyne oil pump
Obx oil pan only cause I can't find a moroso
pm greg at go-autoworks for a moroso oil pan. OBX is junk!
dont need the block gaurd either!
 

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I plan on starting my engine build in the next few months.I wanting opinions on my bottom end build plans.

it's a d16z6 block with block guard honed and hot tanked
d16 crank
All acl race bearing and arp bolts
h beam rods
Vitara pistons
Endyne oil pump
Obx oil pan only cause I can't find a moroso
I'd get ARP Head studs too... unless that is what you mean by "arp bolts".
 

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one grumpy old man
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dont bother with the block guard, and if you must have it for some unknown reason, fit it before you get the block bored. the GE blockguard is ok.
 

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Piston and rod combo will be good for that. I am shooting for around the same numbers with eagle and vitara. Also what kind of block gaurd is it?
 

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I would just forget about block guard really. Like Darlin said, just stopping coolant to run through your water jackets...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thank on the oil pan
and I'm putting arp studs rod bolts flywheel bolts
I'll go without the block guard then
I'm starting with just the bottom end then I'm gonna build the head this is just my starting point
Thanks for al the info
 

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Discussion Starter #11
it helps keep oil temp down holds more oil already tapped for turbo and I don't have a factory oil pan
 

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See above...
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Lose the aftermarket pan...not needed. Port/shim the OEM one, if within spec. Lose the blockguard. Lose the ARP FW bolts too. With the money you saved here, get a better turbo setup.
 

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Lose the aftermarket pan...not needed. Port/shim the OEM one, if within spec. Lose the blockguard. Lose the ARP FW bolts too. With the money you saved here, get a better turbo setup.
Depends on your application. If it's a drag setup, an aftermarket pan isn't really necessary. For track setups, a y8 (or aftermarket) pan with baffles and cooling fins can be beneficial for keeping oil temps low and preventing starvation under hard cornering.
 

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93 honda civic cx
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so for street racing and as a DD...the upgraded oil pan is not needed and porting (not shimming) the oil pump is ok for 300whp??? sorry, im a noob and looked at threads for hours and still got confused
 
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