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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I picked up the motor sunday for $350 complete

I want to get 300HP out of this thing reliably
I know there are some guru's around here

obviosly gonna have to have rods and pistons
what Comp Ratio do you guys suggest and my biggest question is what turbo should I go with
I want to plan it ahead so I know exactly where I'm going
actually if I at least reached 275 I'd be happy
but Im gonna shoot for 300HP

myth of spinnin bearings in a D?
 

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10:1 comp should be good with a very good tune...block posting if u can get it done cheap. Big 16G should do the job... Thats if you can find one for cheap.
 

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dont get the greddy, the turbo is too small and wont get you anywhere near 300 hp...crank...i say 9:1 or 8.5:1 c:r, fully build, and get at least t28rs or t3...boost about 20psi and youll eclipse the 300 mark
 
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rods, pistons, engine management (full standalone is recommended) post the block. www.theoldone.com can do it.
head some head work like valves, springs, retainers is highly recommended.

use 75.5mm pistons let a good machine shoop that has a good rep for working with honda motors do the boring/honing. if it's not exact it will cause you issues. (if the shop is a nasty dirty place with dirt greased floor, find another shop. honda motors must be clean when working on and this tells you the shop doesn't know better)
i recommend endyn's rollerwave pistons. they are the bst on the market.
you can use eagle/scat rods

you should invest ina clutchmaster's stage3 clutch and alloy flywheel.
a quaiufe LSD will ensure you not only get the power to the ground better, but also keep you from ruining a good trany because the stock diff breaks.

(D motors spin bearings due to driver error (overreving)

stock fueling will need to be upgraded. your stock fuel lines are going to be maxed at that point, if you go for 350 you most likley should consider upgrading the lines to a -6 from the stocker -5. some think you do not have too, but to properly sustain flow to the entire system, you need enough volume in the lines and rails.

injectors will need to be 550cc size. if you ge a good deal might as well upgrade to 750s. the cost is minimal, and it ensures you will not run out of injector later if you upgrade the engine and turbo more.

turbo, yea you can do a mitsu, style greddy kit and it will work fine, but if you want something that you can grow into later, then you will want to put a nice custom kit together. a decent t3/t4 turbo. .48 exhaust with a .60ar compressor housing and a 54-57 trim wheel. good ti liek 425 wheel power.
 
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Tad said:
i've read that the y8 oil pum sucks hardcore,
I wouldn't trust it personaly

but it's not like you can't swap it out.
just something to think about.
you read 100% WRONG. i don;t know where you are getting your info from, but stop getting it from there. the Y8 oil pumps are fine. infact one is powering my soon to be a 500wheel powered monster. so stop trusting that source as it's wrong.

he needs to repalce all his parts with new stuff. oil pump, water pump, timing belt, seals, HONDA factory bearings that are proeprly sized to his motor.
 

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oscarmayer said:
rods, pistons, engine management (full standalone is recommended) post the block. www.theoldone.com can do it.
head some head work like valves, springs, retainers is highly recommended.

use 75.5mm pistons let a good machine shoop that has a good rep for working with honda motors do the boring/honing. if it's not exact it will cause you issues. (if the shop is a nasty dirty place with dirt greased floor, find another shop. honda motors must be clean when working on and this tells you the shop doesn't know better)
i recommend endyn's rollerwave pistons. they are the bst on the market.
you can use eagle/scat rods

you should invest ina clutchmaster's stage3 clutch and alloy flywheel.
a quaiufe LSD will ensure you not only get the power to the ground better, but also keep you from ruining a good trany because the stock diff breaks.

(D motors spin bearings due to driver error (overreving)

stock fueling will need to be upgraded. your stock fuel lines are going to be maxed at that point, if you go for 350 you most likley should consider upgrading the lines to a -6 from the stocker -5. some think you do not have too, but to properly sustain flow to the entire system, you need enough volume in the lines and rails.

injectors will need to be 550cc size. if you ge a good deal might as well upgrade to 750s. the cost is minimal, and it ensures you will not run out of injector later if you upgrade the engine and turbo more.

turbo, yea you can do a mitsu, style greddy kit and it will work fine, but if you want something that you can grow into later, then you will want to put a nice custom kit together. a decent t3/t4 turbo. .48 exhaust with a .60ar compressor housing and a 54-57 trim wheel. good ti liek 425 wheel power.
Good info Endyne :)
 
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should have seen the smile on larry's face when i lit the tires in front of his shop today. he had never heard the car till today and he sure looked pleased with the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks man damn you know a lot of shit!
I raely dont wanna fuck with the fuel lines

like I said 275+ daily and Ill be happy
is posting the block necassary?
 

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J-SiN said:
thanks man damn you know a lot of shit!
I raely dont wanna fuck with the fuel lines

like I said 275+ daily and Ill be happy
is posting the block necassary?
Yes he does! he is the man too go to for Forced injuction and Endyne!!! ;)
 

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... any suggestions what my setup would make?
Endyn 75.5mm 10:1 rollerwave pistons
Crower Stage 2 turbo/supercharge cam
Crower Titanium retainers and valve spring
Omini power stainless steel valves
Eagle Rods
RC310 injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
P30 ECU w/ wide band +Crome
[email protected]

any ideas? it's in progress at the moment...
 
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ild say about 170-175ish. you should consider getting endyn's pulley for the blower and going to liek 9or 10psi onthe JRSC. that could get you into the 220+ range
 

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Discussion Starter #16
wel the Y8 is in the shop

Im waiting to hear about some measurements before I order pistons
but I am gonna go ahead and run the turbo kit on my Y7 on about 7 psi or so for now
lol cant wait to boost

this was last night I almost have the charge piping completed


 

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Pistons, as close to stock C/R as you can get.

Rods a must

Good turbo bigger then a T25

Block post/guard - its not necessary, but good insurance

Bigger injectors 440's will prob do the job but 550s for insureance

Tune with Crome/urberdata or some kind of stand alone system, stay away from piggybacks

Wideband O2 to monitor your shit!

Lots of guages
 
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wow, that manifold is hot.

where did you get it? and is it a true equal length?
 
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