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civic ex 94
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Discussion Starter #1
My car is a civic EX 1994, with a d16z6 motor and s20 B000 trans. My goal is 300 - 350 whp for daily drive only. I am maintaining A/C and power steering.
Exhaust sound is a concern for me, so I prefer to sacrifice some power to gain some comfort.
A methanol kit is not an option for me (daily use), I don't want to spend more money for fuel.
Vibrations are also a concern for me, that's why I went with Energy Suspension Inserts and not some hard engine mounts. To prevent wheel hoop, I also went with a Megan Racing front traction bar.
The car have a big turbo and some low compression pistons, my idea is to have a good fuel economy car at low rpm and a better performance car and bad fuel economy at high rpm, if that makes any sense.
Engine is built, turbo and engine is going to be installed in the next few weeks.
What are your thoughts of my build, any advice?
Here is my build list

Suspension
Adjustable coilovers springs.
Gas shocks.
Rear disk conversion
Energy Suspension rear trailing arm bushings.
Master kit bushings de Energy Suspension.
Skunk2 rear lower control arms.
ACR subframe
Beaks tie bar.
Megan Racing front traction bar.
Megan Racing rear camber kit
Megan Racing front upper control arms.
3 point front upper strut bar
Energy Suspension Inserts for rear engine mount and torque mounts.

Brakes
Stoptech stainless front brake lines
Stoptech stainless back brake lines.
Willwood fronts rotors 12.19 inches.
Willwood 4 pistons front calipers.
Willwood fronts brake pads.
Stoptech rears drilled rotors.
Stoptech rears brake pads.
Brake pump and booster from a Honda CRV.
Stoptech 660 brakes fluid.

Motor accessories
HKS ground kit.
AEM fuel regulator.
AEM fuel rail.
High flow fuel filter
Stainless line from fuel filter to fuel rail.
Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump.
Inyector Dynamics 850cc.
NGK spark plug wire.
MSD digital 6al ignition control.
MSD blaster SS coil.
MSD distributor cap.
Two core aluminum radiator with OEM fan.
Password JDM cooling plate.
Mishimoto 1.3 bar radiator cap.
Skunk2 Pro intake.
Skunk2 70mm throttle body.
Vacuum manifold for fuel pressure regulator, boost controller, wastegate, blow off and boost Prosport sensor.
All new vacuum lines.
Trunk battery relocation.
Aluminum overflow tank.
Vented oil catch can with 3 10AN stainless lines outputs (2 goes to the valve cover and one to the black box).
PCV system deleted.
Cruise control deleted.
Charcoal canister system deleted.
Back water hoses deleted.
Skunk2 adjustable cam gear.
Gates Racing timing belt.
Samco Sport radiator hoses.
Honda d16a1 water oil cooler.
Honda oil filter.
Royal Purple break in oil.
Purple Ice radiator coolant additive.
Sandwich plate for turbo feed, oil temperture sensor and oil pressure sensor.
NGK spark plugs R56 grade 8 with 0.028 gap

Exterior
Fog lights JDM clear.
Cartec wheels 17 inches.
Front bumper holes on right and left side.

ECU and others
P28 ECU with Hondata s300 version 3
Hondata electronic boost controller.
AEM wideband.
Prosport water temperature sensor
Prosport oil temperature sensor.
Prosport fuel pressure sensor.
Prosport boost sensor.
Prosport oil pressure sensor.
Turbo timer HKS.
Skunk 2 map sensor 4 bar.
7500 rpm limited.


Transmission
Stock S20 B000 transmission in good condition.
Stock 4.25 final drive.
All new bearings and seals.
Mfactory helical LSD.
Synchromax manual transmission fluid.
Driveshaft Shop 2.9.
Actionclutch stage 3 1MS.

Go-Autoworks Street turbo kit
Tial 50MM Q blow off.
Tial 38mm MVS waste gate.
Turbonetics t3t/t04b journal bearing oil cooled.
Go-Autoworks SS downpipe 2.5 inches flared to 3 inches (A/C compatible)
Go-Autoworks iron cast manifold (A/C compatible).
Go-Autoworks 38mm MVS dumptube.
Go-Autoworks Race charge pipe kit.
Go-Autoworks Pro Oil Kit.
Go-Autoworks stainless clamp.
Go-Autoworks bar & plate intercooler (core dimensions: 22x7x2.5) 2.5 inches inlet and outlet.
Pipe from intercooler to intake wrapped with gold.
Manifold, downpipe and dumptube wrapped with titanium.
Front Slim fan for A/C.
A/C hoses wrapped.
Turbo blanket.
Go-Autoworks oil restrictor.
KyN air filter.
3 inches exhaust pipe.
Magnaflow 3 inches resonator 22 inches long.
Dynomax Super Turbo 3 inches exhaust.
AP 3 inches catalytic converter.

Engine d16z6
Polished OEM crankshaft standar size.
ACL Race main bearings standard size.
ACL thrust bearings .
ACL Race rod bearings.
Rod bearings clearance: 0.0016-0019
Main bearings clearance 1,2,4,5: 0.0015-0.0018
Main bearings clearance 3: 0.0016-0.0019
P2P0 rods customs length 138.63mm (block and girdle notched).
3/8” ARP 2000 rod bolts.
Cylinder bored and honed. Piston to Wall clearance is 0.003 a 0.0035.
YCP vitara pistons 75.5mm.
NPR rings with the following clearence:
First ring 0.018 inches
second ring 0.020 inches
third ring 0.025 inches
ARP head bolts
Cometic 75.5mm head gasket.
Head shaved.
3 angle valve job.
Skunk2 valves standard size.
Skunk2 springs and retainers.
Supertech bronze valve guides.
Stock camshaft.
New OEM pick up and gasket.
New OEM water pump.
New OEM oil pump, not shimed and ported.
Supertech valve seals.
New OEM timing belt tensioner and spring.
New OEM thermostat.
New OEM dipstick.
Magnetic drain plug.
All remain seals are new and OEM.
 

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Honda Civic
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You just listed like $9.000 in parts for a comfy 350hp daily driver. Fox body Mustangs are almost half that and you'll have rear wheel drive. That's just a follow-up to what Bone said.

That's quite the list, you have. I hope you're serious about this.


Read through this before you even touch your car. http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=166555
 

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civic ex 94
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Discussion Starter #4
You guys are right. Well I live in Costa Rica, I have spent much more money than 9000$ because I have to import the parts from USA lol. Mustangs and fuel on Costa Rica are more expensive. Nore less if I can time travel to the the past I would have told to my self to buy a 09 Civic si or something similar, but now there's no way back. The parts are on the car and I am on a few weeks to have all my parts intalled. Let me also say that this was my first car and was my father's gift, I have an affection to it. An expensive and crazy affection lol.
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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1,312 Posts
hope you realize you cant run low octane fuel with the turbo addition, here in the states my car ran 87 octane stock and turbo i had to run 91 octane.
 

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civic ex 94
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Discussion Starter #6
Yes 95 octane all day long here. Maybe methanol kit won't be necessary to hit my goal. I hope!
 

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Premium Member
2005 Legacy GT
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1,754 Posts
A Mustang would have been cheaper.
You just listed like $9.000 in parts for a comfy 350hp daily driver. Fox body Mustangs are almost half that and you'll have rear wheel drive. That's just a follow-up to what Bone said.

That's quite the list, you have. I hope you're serious about this.


Read through this before you even touch your car. DIY: Building your Dream Car 101 - D-series.org
How many of us could have bought a new mustang with what we've spent on our cars? I wouldn't even have to settle for a fox body to be completely honest. Which is good because I think they're ugly.
 

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civic ex 94
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. Yeap, just triying to take some final advices and feedback before I end putting all the parts together in the next weeks. That's all.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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4,471 Posts
wonder if 10:1 pistons and a big turbo would work. high comp for out of boost, and a big snail to reach the hp, but long spool to stay just out of boost
 

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2005 Legacy GT
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1,754 Posts
wonder if 10:1 pistons and a big turbo would work. high comp for out of boost, and a big snail to reach the hp, but long spool to stay just out of boost
Not a bad thought. If you do it right ... and have a good tuner I don't see why something along these lines wouldn't work.

I was going to to shoot for 300 whp @ 9.4ish CR. I don't see why you couldn't do it @ 10:1. Good piston design and a solid tune should make it possible.
 

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civic ex 94
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Discussion Starter #14
hmmm I think 10:1 would be great for more off boost power, but you will be more forced to use better fuel or install a methanol kit. I would just be a little scary with 10:1 CR and take it to the dyno for a tune. Maybe some Wisecos with 9:0.1 compression ratio would work better for me, but I went with Vitara and p2p0 rods with 8.54:1 compression ratio. I'm kind of regret of have chosen Vitara, but now there's no way back and they are cheap which is cool.
 

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2005 Legacy GT
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hmmm I think 10:1 would be great for more off boost power, but you will be more forced to use better fuel or install a methanol kit. I would just be a little scary with 10:1 CR and take it to the dyno for a tune. Maybe some Wisecos with 9:0.1 compression ratio would work better for me, but I went with Vitara and p2p0 rods with 8.54:1 compression ratio. I'm kind of regret of have chosen Vitara, but now there's no way back and they are cheap which is cool.
Higher CR = less boost needed for same power ... also faster spool ... also better power out of boost

I was able to make 180/150 @ 10.4:1 CR before my little turbo ran out of breath. That was on 91 (and a pretty conservative tune and in a D15) ... if you have 95 available you'll be a little better off. I suppose it really comes down to how good your tuner is. You could do it on 10:1 but the margin for error becomes lower.
 

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civic ex 94
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Discussion Starter #16
hmmm I think 10:1 would be great for more off boost power, but you will be more forced to use better fuel or install a methanol kit. I would just be a little scary with 10:1 CR and take it to the dyno for a tune. Maybe some Wisecos with 9:0.1 compression ratio would work better for me, but I went with Vitara and p2p0 rods with 8.54:1 compression ratio. I'm kind of regret of have chosen Vitara, but now there's no way back and they are cheap which is cool.
Higher CR = less boost needed for same power ... also faster spool ... also better power out of boost

I was able to make 180/150 @ 10.4:1 CR before my little turbo ran out of breath. That was on 91 (and a pretty conservative tune and in a D15) ... if you have 95 available you'll be a little better off. I suppose it really comes down to how good your tuner is. You could do it on 10:1 but the margin for error becomes lower.
Nice set up! That little turbo and high CR pistons should be very fun to drive. But, at higher power (350WHP), there is so much more heat than your setup; and heat plus high CR scares me a little. Maybe a very rich map can make the trick.
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
EC3, ED8, ED9, EE5
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574 Posts
I'd be curious if CR uses the same octane rating as the US does. Other countries have 98 which is equivalent to our 93, so if CR is on the same "foreign" scale, that 95 is actually our 91.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'd be curious if CR uses the same octane rating as the US does. Other countries have 98 which is equivalent to our 93, so if CR is on the same "foreign" scale, that 95 is actually our 91.
In CR all gasoline is imported. The 95 octane has an average of 95.4 octane using the ASTM D-2699 method to messure. It has a 744,98 kg/m3 density at 15 Celsius degrees.
It has 0,11 mg/L of lead, 0,60 mg/L of Mn and 36,11/L of Nitrogen.
We have control points by labs evaluation specs of fuels on importation, transportation, on the refinery and on random services stations. I think it is real 95 octane.
 
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