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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just got a new sedan and I told myself I wasn’t going to swap it but I’ve already built a motor mentally. Then I went on Craigslist and found the block and head and IM damn it. I found a rusted z6 block that’s been sitting for $30 a used head for $150 and a y7 intake that I want to use for $25. I reckon I can get all three for $150. I found a d16 rebuild kit that comes with p29 pistons. What do y’all think. Should I. This snowball started yesterday at the junkyard when I stumbled upon a pg7 ecu. This is perfect for my sedan. I should be able to swap a vtec motor and stay automatic without getting a cel right?? With the pg7 I hope it has cruise control
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I bought it on a hunch that it could be the original d15b ecu. I found it on a d15b sedan. I found out that it’s out of an 88-91+- vtec Acura integra. Users would get a cel for the lock up solenoid. This would be good for a mini me swap. I’m not down for all that though. Then too I’m learning that the lock up solenoid itself for the fourth gen civic is getting almost impossible to find. For this reason I think I should go obd1 auto trans and z6 motor. A lot more parts available. Anyone remember any threads that have good info please share them. Thanks again
 

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'91 CRX DX, D15B (D15Z7), DX L3
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Go buy a 50-ohm 5-watt resistor and wire it in where the solenoid is supposed to be. The ECU just needs to see power flowing - it's not that picky. Higher resistance values could work, I'm not sure where the ECU gets grumpy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I’m going to go google search 50 ohm 5 watt resistor.
Order one and stick it into the plug where the solenoid would go?!?!?
 

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'91 CRX DX, D15B (D15Z7), DX L3
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That's the gist of it.
One lead to the lockup solenoid wire, the other to ground. It will spit out about 3 watts of heat - it will only get warm so long as it is exposed to open air. Don't wrap it in fuzzy harness tape or carpet scraps or something and it should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I went ahead and bought that item. But I took off the solenoid it didn’t look clogged. Sprayed carb cleaner. Tested it on the battery. It clicked. So what else? The valve body? And I talked myself out of rebuilding that $30!block fudge that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No bros I think I said that I read that people who used the pg7 on a manual setup got a cel.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The solenoid because my car was and still slips second into third and doesn’t even get into fourth. Adjusting the throttle cable maybe helped a little. I’m going to flush it at 167729 miles. My buddy did his with a lot of miles and it didn’t destroy it. Maybe I’ll get lucky too.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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don't flush it. its bad for the transmission. drain and fill
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
So I bought the Honda atf drain and fill is what I meant. I didn’t know that they were different. I used a machine before. It did idk drain and fill I thought.
If I were to add motor oil what weight do you think would do, what doing that is supposed to do. Hopefully in month I want to swap obd1 motor and trans. I’m taking back that pg7 ecu. I really just need the $300 used replacement.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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a flush forces fluid out, pushing seals and debris. call syncrotech and ask what they recommend. theyre site sponsors
 
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