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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

As the title explains, I've run into a wall re-assembling the front end. The control arms with the new bushings are installed but I can't get the ball joint back into place. Currently, the knuckle is loosely bolted (both bolts) onto the strut and the sway bar end link is disconnected. Those bushings are incredibly stiff so I can't push the the control arm down enough to clear the 2 inches required to slip the ball joint in.

Can anybody with experience chime in on how it's done?

Thanks in advance.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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and what did you do different?
 

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Use a breaker bar to push it down, or have a "fatter" friend step on it
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Use a breaker bar to push it down, or have a "fatter" friend step on it
I tried that and I bent 2 pry bars to no avail. Conventional wisdom tells you to bolt the knuckle in and then slip the joint into the control arm. Unfortunately, this only works with OEM rubber bushings as they have more play than poly bushings. Instead:

1) I put the ball joint in first.

2) Wiggled the CV shaft into the knuckle while slightly prying down between the control arm and the subframe (unless you have 3 arms have someone help you). Be mindful of the ABS sensor.

3) Slipped the bottom bolt of the knuckle to the strut (if it isn't aligned quite right push down on the pry bar from step 2 to help it get into place).

4) Finally, pushed (a bit of effort) the top of the knuckle to align the top bolt to the strut.

For some reason I don't understand, the driver side shaft (longer CV shaft) was tougher to wiggle it into the knuckle but it can be done. The sway bar end links MUST be disconnected or this will never work.

Edit: One last note; the biggest pry bar you can insert into the wheel well is a 24 incher in my experience. I had to use a section of an exhaust mid pipe to get more leverage on the pry bar.
 

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I tried that and I bent 2 pry bars to no avail. Conventional wisdom tells you to bolt the knuckle in and then slip the joint into the control arm. Unfortunately, this only works with OEM rubber bushings as they have more play than poly bushings. Instead:

1) I put the ball joint in first.

2) Wiggled the CV shaft into the knuckle while slightly prying down between the control arm and the subframe (unless you have 3 arms have someone help you). Be mindful of the ABS sensor.

3) Slipped the bottom bolt of the knuckle to the strut (if it isn't aligned quite right push down on the pry bar from step 2 to help it get into place).

4) Finally, pushed (a bit of effort) the top of the knuckle to align the top bolt to the strut.

For some reason I don't understand, the driver side shaft (longer CV shaft) was tougher to wiggle it into the knuckle but it can be done. The sway bar end links MUST be disconnected or this will never work.

Edit: One last note; the biggest pry bar you can insert into the wheel well is a 24 incher in my experience. I had to use a section of an exhaust mid pipe to get more leverage on the pry bar.
I forget I work on cars on a lift, and my breaker bar is 5 feet long and will move any control arm I pry on lol. Remember I said breaker bar not pry bar.
 
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