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99 Hatch
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Last week I replaced my D16Y7 exhaust manifold and cat combo to an Airmass header. Wile doing the swap I removed my primary O2 sensor (top one), lengthened it and placed it onto my header. I have a check engine light on now witch is expected (I scanned it but forgot the exact code) from losing the second O2 sensor. My question is should my car be running really shitty? It feels as if tho I have no power and the car idles really rough some times. The exhaust is an Airmass header straight into a stainless steel 2 1/4 mandrel bent pipe all the way back to a vibrant street power flat black muffler, no cat no resonators.
 

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primary reads the output of the engine... secondary reads after the cat just to make sure your cat is doing its job.. soo in other words, you shouldnt be running any richer then what you were running before.. it prolly just smells really bad because you dont have a cat anymore.. im sure your throwing a code for the secondary o2 and a cat because its not getting any reading
 

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yeah, the secondary o2 wont cause it to run rich... it probably has something to do with your wiring for the primary
 

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99 Hatch
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Discussion Starter #5
It does smell from no cat but I'm used to that smell. The car runs noticeably different tho. If I were to have a bad primary o2 sensor what would the symptoms be like?
 

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sluggish, really smelly, bad bad gas mileage, bad idle... all those kinds of things... but it worked before the install right..??? so imo its something with your wiring when you lengthened the wires
 

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99 Hatch
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Discussion Starter #8
sluggish, really smelly, bad bad gas mileage, bad idle... all those kinds of things... but it worked before the install right..??? so imo its something with your wiring when you lengthened the wires
This is what I'm thinking to now. The car ran great before. I may just bight the bullet and buy a brand new o2 sensor. It will be on the dyno soon after the new engine is installed and converted to OBD-1. The check engine light should the go off after all of this.
 

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68 Camaro
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^werd bust out the ohmeter


edit its more likely you dont have a good connection with one of the wires than it is your primary o2 took a crap.
 

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yeah the light will go out after you change to obd1 and chipped and tuned... no need for a narrow band o2 sensor anymore once its tuned. just a wideband
 

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98 civic ex coupe
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You always wana be careful with the o2 sensors also. Ive noticed a trend with some people at work and I know its not bad luck. Ive seen occasions where exhaust work was done on a car, o2 R+R with the same one and the car will throw a primary heater circuit fault code. Seems some senors are rather delicate.
 

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99 Hatch
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Discussion Starter #12
You always wana be careful with the o2 sensors also. Ive noticed a trend with some people at work and I know its not bad luck. Ive seen occasions where exhaust work was done on a car, o2 R+R with the same one and the car will throw a primary heater circuit fault code. Seems some senors are rather delicate.
This could be it as well. I couldn't for the life of me get it out of my stock cat so I used an o2 socket and my IR impact gun. Sorry I haven't been able to update with my fixes, its been poring for the past 2 days.
 

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99 Hatch
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Discussion Starter #14
So I worked on it today. I broke out the multimeter and found that the resistance of the O2 was infinity so I cut it back to before the soldering and it still rad infinity so I cut it back all the way to just above the sensor and it still read infinity. I took a trip to the local auto parts store and bought a bosch replacement and it works awesome now.
 
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