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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever try it? Any thoughts?

I know you can buy/ make couplers for just about anything now a days so I'm sure you could easily hook them together.
Figure stock chipped ecu running both engines using sensors off one of them (one engine as master one engine as slave).
 

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Anyone ever try it? Any thoughts?

I know you can buy/ make couplers for just about anything now a days so I'm sure you could easily hook them together.
Figure stock chipped ecu running both engines using sensors off one of them (one engine as master one engine as slave).
In a home built car like a locost? I say do it, sounds like it woulnt be to hard to setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That would be the nice thing. ...even with two of them butted end to end it would still be a pretty compact setup that could still fit in a smaller engine bay.

Locust, super 7, rat rod. ....lots of options, then add the turbos of your choice to get the power output you want.

I'd figure with a decent setup you could get a pretty streetable 500hp+ setup as a daily type driver
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Really could even go a step further, get a standard D tranny, weld the spider gears or spool it then use its axle outputs as front/rear drive shaft outputs with the engines/tranny sitting longitudinal in the chassis for an all wheel drive setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There are a few companies out there that make some different types of couplers. I personally think one of the large vibration dampers like on the output of the 04-06 GTOs would work pretty good (1.5 inch thick rubber disk roughly 6 inches acrossed)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A D16 v8 would take a lot of custom machine work where the strait 8 could just be bolted together with a coupler.
 

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Please go into detail about a straight 8, I remember the guy making the v8 d16 but he is nowhere to be found, his build was going so nice too.
 

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What transmission would you use? If you use your 4x4 idea you need ~1:1 ring and pinions in your diffs. I've though about this.. mid mounted D with the transmission pointing out front with a welded diff. Driver side axle output goes to a driveshaft. Unless you're making a crawler you need that 1:1 rear diff :D

D bore spacing is too close to do a v8 I would think. Not much room for 2 rods on there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You could get the crank snout for the rear crank splined and bolt a matching female splined hub of some type to the back of the front engine's crank.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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how would you do the timing belt for the middle engine? what about the front engine distributor? you'd hit the rear engine camgear if they were at all close together

I DO think a straight 8 built from two I4s is a lot more techincally feasible than a v8 though
 

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The problem with straight 8s was the crankshaft not being rigid enough and "winding up". A little D16 might be torqueless enough for this not to be a problem, but the link between the cranks would still have to be super strong, and the blocks would need to be linked together rigidly.

The real question is 'why?'
The engine will still spin backwards and be all kinds of retarded. Just get a 2JZ.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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I think the packaging issues with straight 8's phased them out of common use before the material issues like crank windup could be solved by better castings/metallurgy. I don't think you'd see that issue on a d16 crank because they're so strong and overbuilt to begin with (since people make six times the stock output without any crank issues and all)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
how would you do the timing belt for the middle engine? what about the front engine distributor? you'd hit the rear engine camgear if they were at all close together

I DO think a straight 8 built from two I4s is a lot more techincally feasible than a v8 though
I would personally try to run all the stock parts on the front of both motors so you would have 2 water pumps, two oil pumps, two timing belts and the only thing tieing the two engines together would be the coupler and maybe some type of brace run anlong the lower edges between the oil pans and bottom of blocks.

If you went with COP you could get rid of the distributor problem, or by using the coupler to give enough space for the front dizzy.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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I would personally try to run all the stock parts on the front of both motors so you would have 2 water pumps, two oil pumps, two timing belts and the only thing tieing the two engines together would be the coupler and maybe some type of brace run anlong the lower edges between the oil pans and bottom of blocks.

If you went with COP you could get rid of the distributor problem, or by using the coupler to give enough space for the front dizzy.
how would the coupler work though? it's going from the strong flywheel side (6 high strength, radially placed 12mm bolts) of the front engine to the super weak timing side of the middle engine. All you've got holding that pulley on is a single 17mm bolt in the crank centerline, not 6 radially spaced bolts that you can apply torque to.

the front engine would be exerting all of it's torque through the treads alone, it would just strip out.
 
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