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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
137558
SO I HAVE A D16Y7 MOTOR AND D16Y8 INTAKE MANIFOLD. I DONT KNOW VERY MUCH ABOUT FIXING CARS, BUT I DO WATCH WHAT IS BEING DONE SO I CAN KNOW HOW NEXT TIME. I PURCHASED A NEW HEAD GASKET, MECHANIC WORKING ON MY CAR CLEANED EVERYTHING BEFORE REPLACING WITH NEW GASKET. EVERYTHING WAS GETTING PUT BACK TOGETHER WHEN HE NOTICED THE WATER RUST SPOT YOU SEE IN THE PICTURE. HE THINKS WATER WAS FILLING UP TO WHERE THE RUST SPOT STOPS. SO HE THINKS THE PROBLEM WASN'T THE GASKET BUT THE INTAKE GASKET. FROM WHAT HE TELLS ME, ITS NOT THE RIGHT PART FOR THAT CAR SINCE THE ENGINE ISNT ORIGINAL TO THE CAR. MY PROBLEM NOW IS THE MECHANIC STOPPED WORKING ON IT BECAUSE HE HAS NO CLUE WHAT PART. I NEED HELP. THANKS!
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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buy the gasket for the intake manifold. if its a y8 intake, get a y8 gasket.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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This hole right here:

20210117_102847.jpg



Is the ONLY place water passes through our intake manifolds. That center part with your rust/corrosion is a casting void in the cylinder head which creates a pocket between the manifold and the head that is essentially a closed off hole. There is no water that reaches that part:

20210117_103634.jpg



The rust comes from normal corrosion of this piece:

20210117_103737.jpg



That is a plug put in place to seal off the head oil pressure gallery. It is made of steel, so it rusts. It can comes in all kinds of flavors, a ball or a threaded plug, depending on the design.

Your mechanic should have been able to come to that conclusion that no water reaches that point, just by looking at the head and intake. Unless the head casting itself is cracked and leaking water? Would be HIGHLY unlikely.

I can understand his confusion about which gasket though. Slo is right though, use the Y8 intake gasket. Your mechanic and parts store guys can find the right part with that info. If your mechanic is good, he needs to do his due diligence during gasket install. The gasket should be plug and play, but he needs to visually verify everything is kosher, and clean, before bolting everything back together.
 

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specifically, any intake gasket from 96-98 ex, or any year dx/lx

The y8 gasket doesnt do anything other than have slightly bigger ports, and the y8 runners are already going to be partially blocked by the y7 head ports.

so if you have a spare gasket hanging around, jsut slap it in. Clean the surfaces really well, and get it back together.




Odd that you have wiring extensions on the fuel injectors. Or is this the Y8 harness that has the block box on the fuel rail removed?
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Id also suggest finding a mechanic that knows a little more, if he couldn't take 5 mins to hit a forum and solve this minor hiccup I wouldn't be paying him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
137903

It seems like it’s been forever since I posted last on my car. Well I was able to get the head gasket taken care of that just happened last month. Two days ago I was finally able to drive the car home from where it was where I purchased it. The issue that I’m having now is when I start the car I have to tap the gas pedal repeatedly To keep it running while trying to shift gears any idea what could cause a that problem?
 

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does it idle properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
does it idle properly?
Do you mean starting it up and it running idle on his own? Because if that’s the case that’s what I’m trying to get to is it starting and running on its own without having to repeatedly tap the gas pedal. When I turn the key and start the car I have to be Tapping the gas pedal at the same time until it starts and then I’m constantly tapping the gas pedal just to keep it running so I can change it into reverse or first gear just to go once I get going it runs fine but when I have to come to a stop it shuts off
 

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remove the idle adjustment screw, unplug the IACV. see if it starts and idles. If everything is okay, should idle a little high, but smoothly.

unplugging the IACV should make a proepr setup idle around 450-500rpms, however, with the removal of the idle screw, it should be closer to 700-1000

If it does not idle at all, even with a tiny bit of throttle (tiny bit) then the idle air passageways are blocked off with crap, your ignition sucks, or your fuel pressure sucks, assuming all other things are adjusted properly.



Do the low hanging fruit! Dont throw any parts at it.


Sometimes a simple carb cleaner spray into the throttlebody is enough to clean things out.



If everything seems to work fine, shut engine down, re-install the idle screw, hand snug it fully tight, then back it off 2 full turns. Leave the IACV unplugged, and fire it up. It should idle very low, but idle regardless
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
does it idle properly?
137905
137906

Yes it does run smoothly. And it drives amazing! As long as I don’t have to come to a stop or slow down it runs but as soon as I have to stop or break it shuts off. I’m not sure exactly where are the parts are that you’re wanting me to check but if you can point out the area that you’re talking about I’m pretty sure I can check it. The second guy that started working on my car is actually the one that got it fixed to where I could drive it home and he’s checked over everything and is stumped on what it could be.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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137907


why are you using injector jumpers?
look at those wires....damaged, not connected
 

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The idle air screw is at 1130, basically top, then left a little, of the intake arm clamp. Flathead slot.

Unplug that 2wire IACV, likely it is the problem. Your car looks to be a D16Y7 with a manual d16y8 intake manifold swap. I do not see the vtec solenoid.


You need to find and post your VIN number so we can see the chassis type, then take a better picture of the ecu and its plugs. Passenger footwell. Pop the cover off. Check youtube for ecu swap EK civic if you want some insight to the process.



Looks like it is going to be as simple as figuring out the IACV situation and wiring it appropriately, assuming the d16y7 ecu is still being used.



Manual d16y8 ex civic 96-00 uses the 2 wire manifold mounted IACV. 96-00 automatic EX civics used the same 3wire IACV mounted on the throttlebody as ALL 96-00 DX/LX civics did with the d16y7 "sky-facing" throttlebody

Judging by the distributor wiring, you are 96, 97, or 98 engine harness.

And likely, you have a d16y7 harness that has been cut and stripped apart to make fitting the sensors easier. This means you most likely just need the automatic throttlebody from a 96-98 civic ex, or any throttlebody from 96-00 d16y7 car DX/LX, and then wire in teh 3 wire IACV PROPERLY.


Given it drives nice, the MAP and TPS sensors are NOT mixed up, so take the time to write down the wire colors for both those sensors so you do NOT mix them up in the future

if you find the IACV is NOT plugged in, and you have a 3 wire plug hanging out near the throttlebody left un-used, you simply need to source an automatic-trans 96-00 civic EX throttlebody and a new throttlebody gasket, plug in the 3wire IACV that should come with it, adn you are 100% done.
 
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OBD2 to OBD1 injector jumpers... hmm, I would out of curiosity check coil resistance of those injectors as well, just for piece of mind.

If someone swapped over low impedance injectors, either similar flow rate injectors, or higher flow ones like from a prelude or similar trying to do a poor man's injector size increase, he could have three problems right there:

1) Low impedance injectors on a setup with no resistor box is no bueno, will kill ECU at some point

2) Higher fuel rate injectors are probably flooding or loading up the engine at idle, causing it to want to die without additional air.

3) If those are replacement injectors from some cheap China site, good luck on getting accurate fuel rates or specs. If they are, remove and set on fire, then find a proper used set.


Food for thought.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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And start reading threads on the manifold swap, lots of insight on how to get them done RIGHT, it hurts my feelings to see a car in the shape yours is in, I hope you can stick it out and get it fixed up and dialed in, its worth it.
 

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OBD1 240cc injectors work jsut fine with obd2a/b, given the plug conversion is solid (working)
 

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OBD1 240cc injectors work jsut fine with obd2a/b, given the plug conversion is solid (working)
OBD-0 (pre-1992) injectors are the problem-child. They're low-resistance injectors designed for earlier peak-hold injector drivers. Honda did a work-around by adding a resistor inline with each injector (they're all lumped together in one box) which limits the amount of current going through the injector and the ECU's injector drivers. Low-resistance injectors could probably handle no resistor box, though they're not designed for plain 12VDC operation so overheating could be an issue... They'll be relying on fuel flow for cooling. The injector drivers are not designed for that level of current and will heat up. Semiconductors and heat do not get along well (probably why the injector resistors are in a separate box). Even if they can handle the current without blowing up, the heat-cycling will eventually kill them.
/moreDetailedAnswer
 

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When I got the car if you read in the previous post from last time they thought it was the head gasket in intake manifold but come to find out that wasn’t even the problem the engine is a rebuilt engine DY7 to dy8. The guy I bought the car from his mom and dad both our mechanic the dad retired and he does window tinting the mom had open heart surgery so my options of finding a mechanic or someone but I could do the work was slim to none all of my family back home however I would already have this fixed and completed. I had to rely on the guy I bought the car from defined a mechanic the new condos in how to work on them and no one has seemed to be reliable the guy I asked to work on it was the one that actually worked on the alternator because the alternator needed to be reconnected and the belt put on along with a few other components that weren’t even on the car to begin with. SMH. So I’m looking at the picture I sent in the areas that I need to be made aware of if I can at all do it myself with you guises help I would really appreciate it the wiring I did notice some of the wiring or bad and it made me wonder if that’s not one of the issues that I’m having I knew at some point they need to be replaced.

And start reading threads on the manifold swap, lots of insight on how to get them done RIGHT, it hurts my feelings to see a car in the shape yours is in, I hope you can stick it out and get it fixed up and dialed in, its worth it.
I purchased this car back in November and all I have done was devoted my time in what is determined to get this car fixed properly. But it seems that all I have had was unreliable mechanics and promises not kept. I’m no certified mechanic but I’m always willing to learn and I’m a fast learner and I will never attempt to do anything then I’m not sure about especially with this car. I’ve always loved Hondas and to have the opportunity to have a car like this in the potential that this car has I will spend all of my time and money to see that it gets fixed properly but it seems that the only guidance and proper way of going about fixing this the right way it’s from you guys on here. The guy that sold me the car left a lot of details out as far as what all was wrong with the car I thought it was just a head gasket and the intake manifold but it was actually the alternator and a few parts that weren’t even on the car that I had to get off of another car in order for it to work well the other car happens to be one of his Hondas that he was working on but never finished. So this is been going on since November of last year so I’m needing all the help I can get even if it’s just from you guys and me reading everything thoroughly and understanding where everything is and addressing it

Show these wires that you said are damaged or not connected do they even need to be on to car? What do they just need to be replaced all together?






And the Vin number for the car is: 1HGEJ8146TL059223
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
remove the idle adjustment screw, unplug the IACV. see if it starts and idles. If everything is okay, should idle a little high, but smoothly.

unplugging the IACV should make a proepr setup idle around 450-500rpms, however, with the removal of the idle screw, it should be closer to 700-1000

If it does not idle at all, even with a tiny bit of throttle (tiny bit) then the idle air passageways are blocked off with crap, your ignition sucks, or your fuel pressure sucks, assuming all other things are adjusted properly.



Do the low hanging fruit! Dont throw any parts at it.


Sometimes a simple carb cleaner spray into the throttlebody is enough to clean things out.



If everything seems to work fine, shut engine down, re-install the idle screw, hand snug it fully tight, then back it off 2 full turns. Leave the IACV unplugged, and fire it up. It should idle very low, but idle regardless
137908
This is the idle screw that I removed as you stated it shouldn’t look like this should it?
 
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