Do you mean starting it up and it running idle on his own? Because if that’s the case that’s what I’m trying to get to is it starting and running on its own without having to repeatedly tap the gas pedal. When I turn the key and start the car I have to be Tapping the gas pedal at the same time until it starts and then I’m constantly tapping the gas pedal just to keep it running so I can change it into reverse or first gear just to go once I get going it runs fine but when I have to come to a stop it shuts offdoes it idle properly?
does it idle properly?
OBD-0 (pre-1992) injectors are the problem-child. They're low-resistance injectors designed for earlier peak-hold injector drivers. Honda did a work-around by adding a resistor inline with each injector (they're all lumped together in one box) which limits the amount of current going through the injector and the ECU's injector drivers. Low-resistance injectors could probably handle no resistor box, though they're not designed for plain 12VDC operation so overheating could be an issue... They'll be relying on fuel flow for cooling. The injector drivers are not designed for that level of current and will heat up. Semiconductors and heat do not get along well (probably why the injector resistors are in a separate box). Even if they can handle the current without blowing up, the heat-cycling will eventually kill them.OBD1 240cc injectors work jsut fine with obd2a/b, given the plug conversion is solid (working)
I purchased this car back in November and all I have done was devoted my time in what is determined to get this car fixed properly. But it seems that all I have had was unreliable mechanics and promises not kept. I’m no certified mechanic but I’m always willing to learn and I’m a fast learner and I will never attempt to do anything then I’m not sure about especially with this car. I’ve always loved Hondas and to have the opportunity to have a car like this in the potential that this car has I will spend all of my time and money to see that it gets fixed properly but it seems that the only guidance and proper way of going about fixing this the right way it’s from you guys on here. The guy that sold me the car left a lot of details out as far as what all was wrong with the car I thought it was just a head gasket and the intake manifold but it was actually the alternator and a few parts that weren’t even on the car that I had to get off of another car in order for it to work well the other car happens to be one of his Hondas that he was working on but never finished. So this is been going on since November of last year so I’m needing all the help I can get even if it’s just from you guys and me reading everything thoroughly and understanding where everything is and addressing itAnd start reading threads on the manifold swap, lots of insight on how to get them done RIGHT, it hurts my feelings to see a car in the shape yours is in, I hope you can stick it out and get it fixed up and dialed in, its worth it.
remove the idle adjustment screw, unplug the IACV. see if it starts and idles. If everything is okay, should idle a little high, but smoothly.
unplugging the IACV should make a proepr setup idle around 450-500rpms, however, with the removal of the idle screw, it should be closer to 700-1000
If it does not idle at all, even with a tiny bit of throttle (tiny bit) then the idle air passageways are blocked off with crap, your ignition sucks, or your fuel pressure sucks, assuming all other things are adjusted properly.
Do the low hanging fruit! Dont throw any parts at it.
Sometimes a simple carb cleaner spray into the throttlebody is enough to clean things out.
If everything seems to work fine, shut engine down, re-install the idle screw, hand snug it fully tight, then back it off 2 full turns. Leave the IACV unplugged, and fire it up. It should idle very low, but idle regardless