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Honda Civic EG4
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, D-Series.org community. My name is Teodoras, I am 20 years old aviation engineering student from Lithuania.

My car is Honda Civic EG4, which came out of factory with D15B2 DPFI engine and OBD0 wiring. I have this car since 2014 09 and since then, I have driven it for only 3 months :punk: I bought it with shitty done MPFI swap. Wiring was all messed up, so I had to spend couple of evenings to fix that tragedy. Without electrical problems, the condition whole car body wasn't that great. As usual, rear panels where all rusted out and because of front end accident, car had a bent radiator support. When I bought my car, I didn't have drivers license, so I was able to spend lots of time in garage, fixing all these things.

  • Rebuild my stock D15B2 head
  • Welded new radiator support
  • new rear quarter panels
  • changed grey interior with a black one
  • Installed DC2 integra stock shocks
  • Completely re-done MPFI swap using D16A6 injection parts
  • Installed HP4 Prelude front seats
  • Installed D16A6 camshaft with adjustable cam gear
These were the specs of the car for 3 months. When the summer season came to an end, I decided to build a K series powered car, since locally we can get a K20A2 engine at basically the same price as B16A2 engine, I thought, hell, I am not going to overpay for 20 years old, oil burning b-series engine. So I bought k-swap mounts and exhaust manifold. But decision to go K, was made too fast. After calculating the prices and part availability, to build engine as I want, I understood, that there is no way I will leave my garage this summer. So, what you choose, when you want to have more than 250HP for cheaper price? You build a Vitara D16. :boink:

Let me present you my plans.

Vitara built D16:

  • D16Z6 engine block.
  • Slightly ported Z6 head.
  • 75.5mm YCP Vitara pistons
  • Forged chinese rods with ARP bolts
  • ARP Head studs
  • EVO X 650cc injectors
  • FMIC
  • eBay re-balanced GT30 with 0.82 a/r, which is too big, but why not.
  • eBay cast log manifold
  • 38mm wastegate
  • 255lph Walbro
  • maybe later, Delta 272-2 specs camshaft.
    and etc.
With these parts, I should be ok for 300 whp, which I am shooting for. I know, that such amount of power is useless without LSD and good tires.

Also I understand that I will be having BIG turbo lag, but I am not concerned too much about it, since I am building this engine basically just for numbers and my own interest on how everything works and reacts to my modifications.

For now, most of the engine parts is at the machine shop, so I have lots of time to read some Corky Bell and other authors stuff, related to modern engine tuning and turbocharging. Reading helps me a lot to understand how everything works in this world... And of course d-series.org community. Many smart and great people are here.
 

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Honda Civic EG4
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Discussion Starter #3
To be honest with you, I don't think, that I need something more than CROME. If that would be something like 500hp build, sure, Hondata or any other high end management system is very welcome, but right now, I think I could spend that money somewhere else.

I recently met a local, who has 800HP B18 tuned with CROME! I was like wow, wouldn't something like Hondata be more beneficial? So I guess, I will be ok with crome this time :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Block and crank are now at machine shop. Should get these done this week, and will be able to start building the block.

Now the turbo. Right now I have GT30 with 0.82 a/r hot side. I will be using cast log manifold which I will deburr. Also read, that turbo blanket should help with exhaust gas heat, and because of that, I would get a faster spool time. I'm thinking of what cyl. head I should get. According to Zeal calculator, Y8 would give bigger compression ratio than Z6. How much would milled head and block would help me with spool times? I don't think that I am going to port my head, as it should be done by a pro, to actually gain something. Anyone running 0.82 a/r on your D16? Dyno graphs are very welcome here :)
 

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Wholly crap your car is going to be a slug with a huge turbo and super low vitara compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the info.

I hope that on the upcoming week, I will start building the block. Will get KING main and rod bearings, let's hope clearances will be on the looser side, 0.002 on both mains and rods would be perfect. We'll see.
Because my crankshaft was grinded 0.25mm and it lost that nitride coating on the journals, I will try rubbing into bearing surface some finest MoS2 powder, as the aluminium is porous material, MoS2 should fill these spots, and make bearing surface more slippery in case of contact.

Talking of engine compression ratio, I'm aiming for 8.24:1 with Y8 2 layer head gasket, block milled 0.13mm and head 0.83mm, which gives me total of 1mm shaved off material.
 

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Classic Man
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There is no such thing as a 2 layer Y8 head gasket. Unless you make it, but then its going to be .018" and it wont seal properly.

The internet really fucked up on that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi!

so, I have been trying to find something to change that GT30 turbo. I got offer to change mine to k26/k27 hybrid with 6cm^2 turbine housing, which is roughly .41 a/r... I know that this is REALLY small housing and it would spool really quick, but what about top end power? Dude says, he made 350hp/330ft/lb on his 2.2 5 cylinder Audi.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Haha, well I guess you are right :)

Hopefully, will start building block tomorrow. Still need to notch it, play with some plastigage, let's hope I will get looser side results with my reground crank.... Still not sure about ring gaps.
 
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