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A Captiva Blue Si Ha
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys,
My name is Jonathan and I am a mechanical engineer in Florida. I have had a 2007 Candyglory red Honda RC46 for the last seven years, which I have been building continuously and it is my pride and joy (hence the user name).

I recently acquired a 92 Civic SI and I am in the process of bringing it back to its former glory. It was your typical ricer Civic (failed attempt at making it a fast n furious car, then sat in a garage for the last 3 years), with corny bright red Rota GT3's, slammed to the ground on a blown out Skunk2 suspension, no AC Belt or power steering pump (probably had a B series swap in it at one time, but now has the original D16z6 in it again, but with an automatic 94 Integra ECU) and looks to have had zero maintenance done for the last 10 years.

There was no Transmission torque mount bracket attached to the transmission, both torque mounts were totally blown out and the driver side engine mount was torn. All the exterior signal light bulbs and headlight HID's were blown and turn signal housings were missing. The paint is faded, the rear quarter panels and wheel wells, and a spot on the roof in between the windshield and antenna have some rust. The balljoints, bushings and CV/axles need replacing. The exhaust looks basically factory except the rear muffler is almost dragging on the ground and the catalytic converter has been deleted, so it isn't too loud but has a ricey rattling sound to it. It smoked a lot at idle and especially after 4000 rpms. It leaks a lot of oil. 207,000 miles, I am assuming most of which have been on the original d16z6 engine.

So far I have:
Installed a new chipped P28 ECU (its amazing how much better the car runs with the correct computer lol), 95 Integra GSR throttle body (on a port matched D16z6 intake manifold), new oem spark plugs, oem fuel injectors have been rebuilt and balanced and a new fuel filter. The intake manifold and all sensors and controls attached to it have been taken apart, cleaned and reinstalled. I traded the corny hey look at me bright red rims and dry rotted allseason 205/45/16 rubber for some nice understated LS meshes with purpose sticky 195/50/15 summer BFG's mounted. The car handles much better with the smaller/lighter/stickier wheels and doesn't rub any more either . I have installed all new oem light bulbs and turn signal housings. I have removed and looped all power steering equipment/components and removed all underhood AC components. I have also installed all new Hasport 62a motor/transmission mounts and new filled oem torque mounts. I located and installed a new transmission torque mount bracket and an aluminum engine torque mount bracket (VX model AC bracket?). I have a Bisimoto gen2 header on the way and will be installing that soon with a custom 2.5 inch magnaflow exhaust (30 inch magnaflow resonator at the header collector and an oval magnaflow muffler at the end) This should have a nice sound to it, with out all the typical fart can rattle.

I changed the oil (heavier viscosity) and filter and cleaned out the PCV and black box which were 100% obstructed, in hopes of reducing the smoking. The exhaust now does not smoke at all unless under heavy throttle above 4 or 5 thousand RPMs, so I am assuming that the piston rings are worn out and maybe the cylinders have lost their cross hatching, I need to inspect this still and do a compression check. The engine does start up instantly and it feels pretty healthy. I still need to change out the axles, bushings/balljoints and order a set of BC Coilovers. The brakes actually feel really good still, but I will be bleeding them shortly. Amazingly the battery is still very strong even after sitting for years. The transmission was very rough, so I changed the transmission fluid and bled a whole bottle of fluid through the reservoir and lines and now it feels pretty good, but sometimes has a slight crunch going into reverse. I also need to touch up the interior door panels (fabric coming loose). I need to get the front windshield replaced and rust fixed, but I am not to worried about paint at the moment.




I have plans to rebuild the factory D16z6, but I am still thinking through how far I want to go in the engine build. I am pretty set on building the D and not b/h/k swapping it. For now I would be happy with a healthy non smoking/leaking 150-170 whp all motor D16, but I would eventually like to do a serious turbo build. I am thinking for the time being, Bisomoto Rods, arias 75.05mm 11.5:1 pistons, ARP Rod/crank/head studs/bolts and all new oem seals/bearings/headgasket on the motor and serious head port work, a Bisimoto level 3 cam with a full bisimoto springs/retainers/locks and maybe upgraded valves.



QUESTION:
WILL THE 75.05MM ARIAS PISTONS FIT IN THE FACTORY BORE WITH A LIGHT HONING OR WILL THIS REQUIRE MACHINING????



I am also considering a golden eagle intake manifold, 68mm throttle body and golden eagle or dart sleeves to handle future turbo duty. I see the way to go is 9.0:1 cp or arias pistons with a big turbo to shoot for the 500-700 whp range, but I was wondering if anyone has done something similar to 11.5:1 pistons and a big turbo (and supporting mods). I was thinking, with a thick head gasket, an aggressive camshaft to bleed off some dynamic compression, a lot of head work and valve deshrouding (to remove combustion chamber material and slightly lower static compression), if it would be possible to run a low boost pump gas tune and a medium boost e85 tune with those pistons, so I could build a great all motor car and sometime in the future go turbo, with minimal fiddling with internals. Just thinking out loud and I am looking forward to responses and advice on where to go from here.

PS Thanks for welcoming me aboard and I will try to get pictures up shortly.
 

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See above...
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Have the shop measure your bores and pistons to see what P2W clearance you have left. Might be too tight for what you're trying to accomplish.
 

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94 Integra
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You will be best off machining to 75.5mm. Otherwise most cylinders are in good enough shape to just run a hone thru them - but PLEASE have them checked first because this motor has one of the worst rod-stroke ratios around which can "egg" the cylinders. If they aren't w/in spec and you just hone them, your rings will likely die again after a few thousand miles.

Honestly for an NA build I'd go with slightly different parts. Honda P29 pistons (12:1CR), ARP rod bolts w/stock rods, ARP head bolts (please avoid the common "20 ft-lb step" sequence), and a Colt tri-flow camshaft. I also wouldn't recommend the GE manifold, especially for turbo. A Skunk2 (non-ultra) is plenty for power up to 8k, and even a ported stock Z6 IM cam make power. These parts will be much cheaper, allowing you to source another Z6 block to build for turbo if you so choose.

If you do go turbo, be realistic about your goals. Many people build for 5-700whp, but very few ever get to that point with a D16. The user "Flip" for example has been trying for a long time and has had the worst luck. He's had issues with 2 sleeved blocks, and that's one big reason I recommend CSS sleeve reinforcement over replacement sleeves. If you really must get ductile iron, get the replacement "dry" liners instead of wet sleeves. I'd also recommend regular Eagle rods vs Bisi rods. The only real difference is the Bisi rods cost 2x - if you can actually still get them.

To focus on your question of high-comp turbo E85, that's another area where many try but few succeed. It's a great concept, but the slightest hint of detonation can hammer your bearings into oblivion despite having forged pistons/rods. The gains for high-compression aren't even that impressive. Below is a link to a very skilled tuner who was lucky enough to dyno tune the same turbo setup with different compression ratios (stock GSR vs piston/rod block). Keep in mind the lower compression will allow a lot more boost (and thus more power), and that off-boost numbers ended up identical simply by adding timing:

evans tuning forums :: View topic - Dyno comparison: 9:1 comp vs 10:1
 

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A Captiva Blue Si Ha
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Discussion Starter #4
First, thank you both very much for the valuable info and advice. I will definitely measure all bore specs before and after honing and also double check to make sure that 75.05mm is even attainable. I will definitely check for "egging", as the engine only smokes above 4,000 rpms and this is a characteristic of a tapered bore.

On to why I am dead set on the 75.05mm Arias pistons and Bisi rods, I am getting a very good deal on them together. It is pretty much an offer that I can not refuse, from the same seller I purchased the Bisi header from. Also I am not a fan of the P29 pistons and would like the added assurance of forged pistons and rods so I can be comfortable beating on them and possibly nitrous duty.
 

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A Captiva Blue Si Ha
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So on to the build, I just went for my first test drive on the Hasport motor mounts and filled lower torque mounts. What originally seemed like great deal, turned out to be a possible bad decision. I was told they were the 62a street compound, which is what I wanted, but the seller had the 3 bolt kit so I just purchased the rear and transmission side from him and a 62a motor side mount straight from Hasport. I installed the rear and transmission side mounts while I waited on the motor side mount to come in direct from Hasport. When I finally got my hands on the actual 62a mount direct from Hasport, it became very apparent that the other 2 supposed 62a mounts, were made of a very much harder compound than the confirmed 62a mount.

Starting the car for the first time was a shocking experience to say the least lol. They are on the extreme side of things and I don't know if I can daily them. You can literally feel the starter teeth engage on the the flywheel teeth and it hits you like a ton of bricks.

The transmission side was easy enough to install, but I am not really looking forward to changing the rear mount out for a second time. I am also not looking forward to paying for the passenger side and rear mount again for a second time. I will probably just swap out the passenger side with a 62a direct from Hasport and see if the rear settles in somewhat, to a more tolerable level. Then I guess I'll list the harder, unknown compound, Hasport mounts on ebay and take a loss, or maybe hold on to them for possible future turbo duty.




Now on to the exhaust side of things. I am thinking of ordering a pre-bent mandrel bent pipe kit with a 18" magnaflow 4in resonator installed from these guys:

http://http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com/categories/car-exhaust/honda/92-95-honda-civic.html

Then ordering the oval magnaflow end muffler, installing the header and driving to a local muffler shop and having everything welded up. Is anyone familiar with them? Seems like high quality stuff. I am kind of questioning the lack of 2/4 door/ hatchback options, but the muffler shop should be able to make up the difference, right?


Also I am going to need to pick up a header gasket and exhaust bolts/studs, you guys have any advice/recommendations?

AGAIN THANKS FOR THE KIND WORDS AND ADVICE
 

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your linky no worky for the exhaust.

This is where I got my exhaust piping from and so have some other DSO members.
HONDA TK

For the mounts. Did you torque them in sequence per the FSM? That made a difference for me. Also I believe you can order the insert only from hasport.
 

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A Captiva Blue Si Ha
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
See if this link for the exhaust tubing kit works:


http://http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com/categories/car-exhaust/honda/92-95-honda-civic.html


As far as the Hasport mounts go, yes I torqued them in sequence and they are the whole mount, not inserts. I am sure the transmission and rear mounts are the U94A compound and that's why I got them so cheap. The guy that sold them to me either had no clue that they were the race compound or was just playing dumb and selling them cheap so he could recoup some money for the U62A street compound.

http://http://hasport.com/store/index.php/egstk.html

edit:

Okay I get what you are saying, I should try and order the inserts from Hasport to same some money. Okay gotcha, I will look into that. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay I just ordered a full 2.5in mandrel bent piping, an 18in long 2.5in diameter magnaflow resonator and 2.5in 5x8 oval magnaflow end muffler. I have never heard a D series that sounded that great, but hopefully this will be about as good as it gets. I also picked up a header gasket and bolt kit, just in case a few exhaust studs back out (which I am sure at least two of them will lol).

I am going to pull the trigger on the Arias 75.05mm 11.5:1 pistons and Bisimoto rods
later on today.

p.s Does anyone want a Hasport Race compound tranny mount? I am going to swap mine out for a street compound mount and possibly leave the rear race mount alone.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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:ttiwwop: :ttiwwop: :ttiwwop: :ttiwwop: :ttiwwop: :ttiwwop:
 

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Love the Civic
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postimage.org is a good free one.

Copy "hot link for forum" diag box, paste in thread.
 

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A Captiva Blue Si Ha
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Okay here is some pics:

Side view of Bisimoto header
Hasport Transmission mount
My hatch and Teggy
Mandrel bent piping kit
Front view of Bisimoto Header
 

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Waiting for pics expect red Civic; pleasantly surprised it is the best color of blue the EG's came in. :D
 

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A Captiva Blue Si Ha
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Discussion Starter #14
I keep hearing that about the Captiva Blue hatches. Glad to hear its such a well liked color :)
 

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What I was saying about the Hasport mounts is that you can buy just the urethane portion and swap it out. No need to buy a whole new mount.
 

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Love the Civic
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Looks fun, in for moar.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So what do you guys think about these Cusco door bars? Are they just JDM Bling Swag or do they actually make a noticeable difference in chassis rigidity? They came with the car, but if they are mainly just a jdm fan boy part, I would rather sell them, than install them.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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your linky no worky for the exhaust.

This is where I got my exhaust piping from and so have some other DSO members.
HONDA TK

For the mounts. Did you torque them in sequence per the FSM? That made a difference for me. Also I believe you can order the insert only from hasport.
I got my 3 inch exhaust from here. They did a really good job.
 
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