[ChubbsWrld]

What's good Honda peeps. I would really appreciate some insight here. I tried to fire my engine last night with no luck. Fuel pressure primes to 40ish, drops to around 27 while cranking and bleeds off to zero. I fixed a couple leaks we had in the fuel system. I pulled a plug and watched it arc so I know I'm getting spark. I have not pulled a plug after cranking more to see if there is fuel so my thought is maybe the injectors aren't firing. I noticed that while I'm cranking my short term fuel trim is pegged at -100. So if I am not mistaken the ecu is pulling fuel. I have high impedence 1000cc Bosch EV14s in right now, I adjusted the dead times per the spec card that the injectors came with.
Here's a break down of engine and ecu components in case this helps.
Everything is new never ran. D16Z6, turbo, 1000cc EV14 injectors, AEM 340 pump, Vitara pistons, Speed Factory no notch rods, Ferrea 6000 turbo valves, Supertech keepers, Brian Crower BC0070S steel springs and retainers, Speed Factory street savage camshaft, Skunk 2 intake and 70mm throttle body, Burton Racing 4bar map sensor.
Any ideas on what to try? I'm gonna pull a plug and see if I have fuel. If there's no fuel in the cylinder should I try the base map with the stock injector settings and see if that works?

Also the ecu is a 1720 board, s300 v3. I added PWM and vtec. We installed into a buddies car with a b18 and base map, it fired right up so the ecu is working.

 

[ChubbsWrld]

Just pulled a plug, no sign of fuel. One thing I didn't notice until now is that the fuel pressure builds to normal pressure when priming, but as soon as the pump shuts off it bleeds to zero very quickly. I'm thinking one of three things. Faulty FRP, leaking injectors (don't think that's it bc there's no sign of fuel in cylinders) or maybe the check valve in the fuel pump itself.

Well, scratch that. Seems the pressure drop is normal. Something is going on with my injectors.

 

[drtalon123]

I'm assuming you've loaded up a basemap for your engine, have you scaled your MAP sensor and injectors already? Programmed dead times and voltage offsets?

STFT modifiers shouldnt be affecting anything during cranking/startup, even then, it will be using open loop until warm, so i bet that -100 is a temporary value, and means nothing during warm up in open loop.

 

[ChubbsWrld]

I'm assuming you've loaded up a basemap for your engine, have you scaled your MAP sensor and injectors already? Programmed dead times and voltage offsets?

STFT modifiers shouldnt be affecting anything during cranking/startup, even then, it will be using open loop until warm, so i bet that -100 is a temporary value, and means nothing during warm up in open loop.

I modified a stock D16 p28 map. Set injector dead times to the specs I got from Performance Fuel Injection. I set the map sensor to the specs from Burton Racing as well. I just tested with a noid light and there is signal while cranking.

 

[drtalon123]

Reference this. Another guy is literally going through similar things.

Try what I suggested there, and let me know what happens.

Injector swap woes

Just swapped in my IN600 injectors in preparation for my turbo install. I wanted to get them in and at least have Idle set up before making any more changes. Well ether I am a dumbass and I am doing something wrong or there is something wrong with my setup already as I cant even get the car to...

www.d-series.org

 

[ChubbsWrld]

On it. I added to the ect table and left the rest with the specs applied. I'll try right now.

 

[ChubbsWrld]

Reference this. Another guy is literally going through similar things.

Try what I suggested there, and let me know what happens.

Injector swap woes

Just swapped in my IN600 injectors in preparation for my turbo install. I wanted to get them in and at least have Idle set up before making any more changes. Well ether I am a dumbass and I am doing something wrong or there is something wrong with my setup already as I cant even get the car to...

www.d-series.org

Tried that, no luck. There is zero fuel coming out of the injectors. We took out the bosch ones just now and put in the stock ones. I made a new map and left the injector parameters alone, still no spray.

 

[mattliston]

What FPR are you running?

You should be setting fuel pressure with the vacuum line off, so that the engine is not effecting the signal at all.

Considering they are Bosch 1000's I would actually focus more on 55-65psi initial pressure.

Pressure dropping off after cranking is either fuel pump, or a leak. FPR has nothing to do with maintaining line pressure with the pump off and engine not using fuel.

It is getting more and more common to get dud parts.


FOr something like a fuel pump, more often than not at the shop I work at, we grab 2 or 3 fuel pumps, and legit get boned on the first pump 75% of the time.

 

[ChubbsWrld]

What FPR are you running?

You should be setting fuel pressure with the vacuum line off, so that the engine is not effecting the signal at all.

Considering they are Bosch 1000's I would actually focus more on 55-65psi initial pressure.

Pressure dropping off after cranking is either fuel pump, or a leak. FPR has nothing to do with maintaining line pressure with the pump off and engine not using fuel.

It is getting more and more common to get dud parts.


FOr something like a fuel pump, more often than not at the shop I work at, we grab 2 or 3 fuel pumps, and legit get boned on the first pump 75% of the time.

We ended up figuring out what was going on. Super unrelated and something I've never personally dealt with before. I did a compression test and got 90s across the board. We loosened all the rockers and leaked it down, blowing out the intake and exhaust valves. We pulled the head and took it back to the machine shop. 100% seal, I witnessed the test. So we took the head back and started to reassemble. I was comparing the aftermarket cam gear to the stock one and noticed the damn woodruff key had broken and allowed the cam to spin about 230 degrees off...... I don't know how but I got insanely lucky we didn't grenade this motor immediately. We cleaned the burrs and scratches, got a new woodruff key and reinstalled. Checked leak down and it's perfect across the board. Put the rockers on and did a compression check and it spiked super fast. So I put the 1000cc back in, put the tune back to the original one and gave it a shot. Fired up immediately. For the first start I was on the throttle a little bit, trying to keep it around 2 to 2500 rpm for the initial heat cycle. Other than running lean at first it seemed to be fine. I bought a crap oil pressure gauge from ebay and it didnt work at all, no dummy light for oil pressure on the dash though. I'll be making another post about this next part if i cant figure it out, but when I let off the throttle, at about 145 degrees coolant temp, the oil light came on. As soon as I noticed it I shut the car off. I drained the oil and it looked good, nothing abnormal. We are running a glowshift sandwich plate for the turbo feed, and initially had the aftermarket gauge sender installed in the factory location for the oil sensor above the filter, the stock oil sender was on the sandwich plate. The sandwich plate only fits with the lines facing up so we thought maybe the pressure wasn't getting to the stock sensor bc it was up and not down. We moved everything around. I got a new mechanical oil pressure gauge and we installed a T fitting in the factory location on the block, so the factory gauge and the aftermarket gauge were in the stock location, keeping the turbo feed line on the plate but adjusting it so the line was facing down. Fired it up again with no throttle and nothing, oil light on and gauge reading zero. Thinking maybe the stock sender was the issue we checked the mechanical gauge was working with an air compressor. Works fine I think. So we removed the T and installed only the gauge. Fired it up again and the gauge didn't move. That's where I'm at right now, trying to figure out why the hell I'm not getting oil pressure. When I took the oil filter off there is definitely oil circulation, there was oil in the head when we took the cover off too. Everything is new, and done by the machine shop. We checked bearings and clearances when we assembled. New ACL performance oil pump was installed so maybe it's a dud from the factory.....not really sure right now. But I'm working on it. Long story short the fuel trim was not my issue, timing was and now I'm battling other demons lol.

 

[Georgia Eg]

With valve cover off, plugs out, distributor disconnected, crank it, see if oil is flowing or not. Perhaps an issue with the sandwich plate?

 

[ChubbsWrld]

With valve cover off, plugs out, distributor disconnected, crank it, see if oil is flowing or not. Perhaps an issue with the sandwich plate?

Got it figured out today. I didnt realize that the machine shop removed my oil galley plugs. i got real lucky we noticed it in time. We pulled all the rod caps and bearings, no damage. We are cleaning everything right now and reassembling. Ill have it running in the next 2 or 3 hours again, this time with some good ole oil pressure.

 

[drtalon123]

Dang man! Which plugs exactly were removed?

 

[ChubbsWrld]

All 3 plugs on the galley under the crank girdle were removed. We should have caught that during the initial engine assembly but didnt.

 

[drtalon123]

All 3 plugs on the galley under the crank girdle were removed. We should have caught that during the initial engine assembly but didnt.

Holy shit hahaha

 

[ChubbsWrld]

Yeah...not my favorite moment when we realized that. Honestly just a stroke of luck this thing didn't blow up before it actually started.